Update on 1996 Force 120 HP - getting engine to run smooth:
Today, I removed its spark plugs, sprayed Sea Foam - Deep Creep into all cylinders, with ignition key off, pull roped a few times (to ensure all cylinder walls were well coated), and let sit for 2 hours. Put plug into cylinder #1 and cylinder #2 compression is now 150ish (same as cylinder 1). Let sit for a few hours (with all plugs out) and re-checked compression. All cylinders remainined in 150ish range. Me now thinks this engine did have a stuck ring in cylinder #2 (that created previous 120 PSI), and Sea Foam - Deep Creep product ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErRhTGZhbqY ) freed it up. In the next few days, I will check compression again. If all holds in 150ish range, I'll leave its factory head "as is". But if compression in cylinder #2 drops down to 120 (like before), I'll remove the head for visual inspection.
After compression back up to 150ish across all cylnders and feeling very lucky today, I removed both carbs and did inspection of both reed blocks. To my surprise, there's NO broken steel leafs. In daylight, their steel leafs look perfect. Yet, I know the leafs are leaking - because of the spitting back out both its carbs. Feeling tired, I waited for night time to settle in. In blacked out garage room, I held a flash light behind each reed cage. To my surprise, I see light. Too much light. And as I finger pressed each steel leaf set, some of them are "clicking". Luckily, I was able to search this site and discovered that clicking reed leafs are bad. Tomorrow, I plan to remove the steel leafs, turn each reed leaf over and using thread-lock glue on their little screws, tighten them down. Since I don't want to spend anymore dollars on this motor, I'll simply flip the factory steel leafs over and re-install. Then, reinstall the reed cages and carbs using new gaskets at 6.5 lbs of torque. After re-install (and hoping cylinder #2 continues to hold its 150ish PSI range), I then plan to de-carb its engine using Sea Foam - Motor Treatment product ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjXViwb97qc ). Then, winterize - for well needed rest. And, hoping some of the Sea Foam chemical residue on its cylinder walls and inner engine will help free up even more stuck items / stuck carb residue - while its sleeping during winter months.
With all above in mind, am I on the right track? Or, should I replace factory steel leafs with Boyesen reeds # B244 instead?
thanks.
Today, I removed its spark plugs, sprayed Sea Foam - Deep Creep into all cylinders, with ignition key off, pull roped a few times (to ensure all cylinder walls were well coated), and let sit for 2 hours. Put plug into cylinder #1 and cylinder #2 compression is now 150ish (same as cylinder 1). Let sit for a few hours (with all plugs out) and re-checked compression. All cylinders remainined in 150ish range. Me now thinks this engine did have a stuck ring in cylinder #2 (that created previous 120 PSI), and Sea Foam - Deep Creep product ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErRhTGZhbqY ) freed it up. In the next few days, I will check compression again. If all holds in 150ish range, I'll leave its factory head "as is". But if compression in cylinder #2 drops down to 120 (like before), I'll remove the head for visual inspection.
After compression back up to 150ish across all cylnders and feeling very lucky today, I removed both carbs and did inspection of both reed blocks. To my surprise, there's NO broken steel leafs. In daylight, their steel leafs look perfect. Yet, I know the leafs are leaking - because of the spitting back out both its carbs. Feeling tired, I waited for night time to settle in. In blacked out garage room, I held a flash light behind each reed cage. To my surprise, I see light. Too much light. And as I finger pressed each steel leaf set, some of them are "clicking". Luckily, I was able to search this site and discovered that clicking reed leafs are bad. Tomorrow, I plan to remove the steel leafs, turn each reed leaf over and using thread-lock glue on their little screws, tighten them down. Since I don't want to spend anymore dollars on this motor, I'll simply flip the factory steel leafs over and re-install. Then, reinstall the reed cages and carbs using new gaskets at 6.5 lbs of torque. After re-install (and hoping cylinder #2 continues to hold its 150ish PSI range), I then plan to de-carb its engine using Sea Foam - Motor Treatment product ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjXViwb97qc ). Then, winterize - for well needed rest. And, hoping some of the Sea Foam chemical residue on its cylinder walls and inner engine will help free up even more stuck items / stuck carb residue - while its sleeping during winter months.
With all above in mind, am I on the right track? Or, should I replace factory steel leafs with Boyesen reeds # B244 instead?
thanks.
