Keeping an I/O in a salt water slip

[massimofinance]

After a three year wait list, I finally got a slip. I’ve been dry sailing my 2000 searay sundeck 210. Its never been bottom painted. I’m going to paint the bottom
in ablative paint but I can’t find anything online about painting the outdrive. I know to change the zincs. But do I also paint the outdrive? Any other advice? Thx.

 

[tpenfield]

Lucky you !!!

I would apply a barrier coat (or 2) (Interlux Interprotect E2000) first, then the anti-fouling paint. Your first application of AF will need about 3 coats, then probably a single coat on a seasonal basis.

I use ePaint EP2000 anti-fouling paint. There are all kinds/brands of paint . . . good stuff is about $200/gallon Use the good stuff.

Outdrive anti-fouling is Trilux 33 . . . there are a few other brands. I paint everything . . . Outdrive, props, etc. I tried zinc coating on the props one year . . . it kept the barnacles away, but algae grew on the props as the season went on. Nothing seems to grow on the OD or props with the Trilux. Here is a link to Trilux on iBoats.

http://www.iboats.com/shop/interlux-trilux-33-black-pint.html

I have used a 1" roller to apply the outdrive paint, as it goes on fairly thick with a roller. . . but this year I used a HVLP sprayer, which seemed to do a pretty good job. The aerosol cans are pretty useless and quite expensive for what you get, so I buy the quart cans.

You will want aluminum anodes for salt water, make sure they have good electrical contact. Depending on your region, they will last about 3-4 months, then need replacing.

 

[Lou C]

Depending on what paint you use, it may be necessary to use a primer before putting on the anti fouling for aluminum. Some paints like Trilux require the use of a primer (Primocon) especially if there are any bare spots on the drive because the Trilux does have a variation of copper in it, that can cause galvanic corrosion on the aluminum in salt water. I've found that keeping paint on the outdrive to be about the worst aspect of slipping or mooring an I/O boat in salt water but mine is at the point where it needs to be totally stripped and sanded etc.

 

[Lou C]

Also keep in mind the need to R+R the outdrive at the end of the each season, check the bellows, gimble bearing and Ujoints, sometimes you get barnacles on the bellows that can cut it and cause water intrusion. That is a necessary part of I/O maintenance in salt water.

 

[sdowney717]

Anodes are very important now that your keeping the boat in the water. You can not paint the hollow interior aluminum surfaces. And no stray current leakage should be tolerated. If your next to a boat with bronze, and your aluminum, your boat is anodic and theirs cathodic, and your metal can rot if you have stray currents in the water. But whats bad for yours is good for the other boat.

 

[Searay205]

Dont do it. 21' Sundeck to easy to trailer. You want a boat in the water all the time get one with only the propeller and shaft in the water. My outdrive gasket popped and if my boat in the water would have never known it. Bellows, outrdrive, bilge pumps, you entering a whole new slew of risk. have good insurance.

 

[Lou C]

I have done it 15+ years and about 1/4 of the boats under 30’ in my harbor are I/Os as well. It is a good amount of work and you can’t scrimp on it. Think about it will you really get to use the boat a lot more if you slip it? Will it be worth the extra work? Is your current set up really inconvenient? Only you can judge. Other option is to sell the boat while it’s still pristine and buy an outboard boat.