Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

[rnorman3]

Hello all, does anyone have a picture of a kicker mounted on a 185 Bayliner or boat with a similar hull shape (see pic,lol that ain't me in there...)? I'm trying to figure out how to get the damn thing on there! Strictly for open water emergency break down.

THANKS!!

 

[Home Cookin']

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

it's a square peg in a round hole because few people need a kicker for back-up power on a boat that size and style. You don't have a spare transmission strapped up under your minivan, either.

 

[rnorman3]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

Thanks Home Cookin, but i'm determined to get it on there...I'm probably going to use a combination of a bracked on the swim platform and a Garelick drop down, I think it'll work. Then i'll put an extension arm on the tiller like a piece of PVC pipe. Any pictures from anyone would be great. I've found a similar picture:

http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104631&d=1311659992

And I'm going to pm the guy to see how he made out!

RN

 

[JimS123]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

Forget the Garelick dropdown. Hanging out too far and it'll cause way too much torque on the spot its mounted on the transom. If you get a reply from the guy you PM'd that's the way I would go. You want to mount the motor on a fixed mount, then just tilt it up. My last boat was rigged with a turnbuckle on the transom, with the end mounted on the motor. When tightened down in the up position the motor was rock solid.

I agree with your motives 100%. But square peg round hole fits too because where you are mounting it the hull isn't strong enough to take the forces. Personally, I wouldn't be without a kicker, but then again I wouldn't buy a boat that didn't have the ability for a safe mount.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

Well, in one respect this does apply because even though I had a flat surface, I mounted my kicker where there was no wood backing behind the fiberglass. So, with a great deal of struggling to reach past obstacles, I mounted my home-made drop down with aluminum reinforcing plates inside the hull.

You will undoubtably need to fabricate some backing plates and spacers.

My boat is a 21 foot cuddy and I have had up to a 15 on the mount. A 9.9 does well--well, it gets me home, but not in a hurry. Your 18 should do OK with a 9.9 but you certainly would not want much less--especially if you need to battle currents.

Consider buying a sailor model kicker: the extra long leg will make it (perhaps) unnecessary for a drop down mount.

 

[rnorman3]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

Thanks Frank, nice artwork on the cover there! Hey, question how much does the steering get effected by mounting the kicker to the far port side of the transome? (as opposed to trying to keep it closer to the keel as possible). I might have enough room to fixed mount it almost all the way port, maybe it'll be 8 inches from the port side of the boat...

Thanks!

 

[rnorman3]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

Forget the Garelick dropdown. Hanging out too far and it'll cause way too much torque on the spot its mounted on the transom.

Hi Jim, hey, when you say torque do you mean the force that would be pulling down on the mount, or something to do with the prop?
Thanks,
RN

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

Torque is the twisting motion applied to the swim platform, the mount and the transom as the motor tries to push the boat. Swim platforms are not designed for twisting forces. They are required to handle "vertical" forces. The mounting hardware and the deck itself is not designed for handling the forces created by an outboard. Do not underestimate these forces. Just because there is space to mount something does not mean that surface is capable of handling the stress.

 

[rnorman3]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

Hi All, I rigged up some wood and mounted the motor on the boat just to see how it would look and feel for steering, lowering the bracket etc...


I think it looks OK. I can reach the tiller from the boats backseat, even more so with an extension on it. I can start the motor etc... when it's in the up position and then push it down. When I make the actual bracket to mount the Geirlick, I'll include a section between the transom and the bracket, so the bracket will be bolted to both the swim platform and the transom, with most of the force situated around the 90deg bend in the bracket where it goes from horizontal to vertical. What do you think?

RN

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185



Looks good! The forces generated by the kicker are really not that great so if you use a little logic when designing the mount it will probably work well.

Understand that on my home-made drop-down, I use four 1/4 inch stainless bolts to mount it to the hull. The pivots are four 5/16 bolts. This is quite sufficient to handle any forces a 9.9 can generate.

While I perfer to steer using the tiller, it can become tiresome, especially since the engine is below the level of the deck and the tiller needs to be up at a severe angle. On long straight runs, since the engine will only push my hull at about 4 MPH, I leave the kicker very slightly angled and "steer" course corrections using the big engine. In the water, in neutral, the prop will spin so there is really not that much drag and everything works well. Photos to follow with an edit.

Note that the brackets are 3/16 X 3 aluminum angle while the center bars are 3/8 X 1 stainless. They used to be 1/4 X 1 stainless but it was too whippy in the up position so I changed them. Also note that I used plastic for the motor mount AND for the spacers so the drop-down would clear the rub rail in the up position.

Artwork is decals from an auto wrap decal maker. I give him a disc with the photo and dimensions I want and he makes the decals. 75 bucks an engine (two decals , mirror images) --not bad.

 

[brnschoneck]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

id just keep a tow service i think its a lotta work for sumn ull barley use but thats just me good idea though !!!

 

[JimS123]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

Hi Jim, hey, when you say torque do you mean the force that would be pulling down on the mount, or something to do with the prop?
Thanks,
RN

Nothing to do with the prop. The downward weight of the motor or the forward thrust of the prop are nothing. The top of your swim platform will handle them without a problem. Or, if you mount it directly to a static bracket with the motor tied secure, no problem there either. As I see it your issue will be with what you call the dropdown.

Garelicks, or any other brackets, do a lot of bouncing when in the up position. On the highway or even worse in 2 foot swells while running with the main engine will probably flex that whole assembly enough to crack the top of the back end of your boat. These dynamic forces are bad enough as it is, but now you're proposing to cantilever the whole assembly out even further.

Frank's setup (in post 5 and 10) are a perfect way to handle it. (nicely designed mount by the way). In that case its not cantelevered, nor is it on a secondary bracket. Besides, his transom is built to handle an OB motor bracket. Yours is not.

Possibly if you have access to the underside of the swim platform and can insert and bolt in a 2" wood backer, you might mitigate the issue. But better be sure the homemade bracket is made out of cast iron or something, so it won't flex at all.

 

[rnorman3]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

Possibly if you have access to the underside of the swim platform and can insert and bolt in a 2" wood backer, you might mitigate the issue. But better be sure the homemade bracket is made out of cast iron or something, so it won't flex at all.

I do have access to the underside of the platform and planned to put a backing plate under the platform to spread out forces from the 4 bolts that'll hold down the plate to the swim platform. Then I plan to put two vertical plates (parallelogram shape), one on either edge of the vertical part of the mount, and bolt that to the transom, probably using some angle iron. By the time I bolt the mount to the swim platform,,,and the transom - the vertical part or the mount should be very stable (I hope). I made a picture...


I plan to use all 3/8 aluminum for everything, either that or 1/4 steel for everything. Steel would work better for me since I can mig weld it, but I'm not setup for aluminum. I can make it from steel, then if it doesn't seem strong enough get a machine shop to duplicate it with aluminum.



What do you think?
RN

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185



You are overestimating the amount of force it needs to absorb. Please don't use steel unless it is stainless. Regular cold rolled steel plate has no place on a boat and will quickly look crappy. 3/8 aluminum is a little overkill but if you want to do it--fine simply bolt it together, no real need for welding.

Things don't need to be heavy and massive to do their job. A well engineered mount should weigh very little. Look at there photos of a couple of transom reinforcemenst I have done. In both cases, the transom was increased from 15 to 20 inch. It is ALL only ,080 aluminum and in the case of the small boat it supports a 55 while in the case of the larger boat it has had a 125 on it,

 

[rnorman3]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

That's pretty cool Frank. I have never worked much with aluminum so I'll take your advise and maybe go with 1/4" all around, use angle and bolts to join it up, and stay away from the steel. In the end I think this is the only way to go, unless I got a motor with an extra long 25"+ shaft and could mount it without the Gerelick drop down...i'll have to keep my eyes open for one! Thanks for the pictures!!

 

[MarkARo]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

Frank.....I have a 19.5' Bayliner Capri I/B. I have been planning to convert it to my fishing vessel now that the kids are out of the house and the days of going skiing are gone. I want to use my 5HP kicker for trolling. My concerns were associated with reinforcement to the transom. On my boat the swim platform is on the starboard side so I have planned my Garelick mount for the port side. The port side is where my battery compartment is so I was planning on glassing in two 3/4" sections of marine grade plywood. Did you do any reinforcement or is your transom already strenghten becasue you have a O/B. My other concern is that once installed the mount will have a negative angle, like your's, due to the negative angle that the transom sits at. My solution was to just reset my kicker to compensate. What did you do? I tried to insert a pic of my boat for additional info....note sure it will appear.

Mark

 

[Howard Sterndrive]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

I snagged this pic recently from a user at the Bayliner owner's club- I'm planning to fab something like this up

 

[rnorman3]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

Hey Mark, your boat looks much like mine, not easy to get a kicker on it. I'm still working on mine, i'm heading to the machine shop tomorrow to checkout what they have for aluminum. I never thought to re-enforce my transom, but that might be a good idea for me too. I haven't really checked how thick the fibre glass is there yet....

RN

 

[MarkARo]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

Frank.....I contacted Bayliner several months ago and inquired about the construction details on my boat. They sent me a reply along with construction drawings. I cannot find the response, but I recall that the transom on my I/B is only about 1" thick on the port side. (1/4 glass, 1/2 plywood, 1/4 glass) If I attach a Garelick mount, I plan to add at lease two 3/4 plywood plates to reinforce the local area.

 

[MarkARo]

Re: Kicker on 2012 Bayliner 185

Frank.....I found the response that I received. It is shown below. Sorry I cannot locate the diagram that was attached.

Thank you for your inquiry, and I hope you are having a great day. Regarding the thickness of the transom on your 1999 1950 Classic, I have attached a sheet below that shows where the extra stiffening is located for your reference. The transom area itself on the port side where you would mount the engine is appoximately 1/2" thick, and the additional marine plywood would make it approximately 1" thick.
If we can assist further, please let us know.