Kill switch or ignition?

[Dubvgogetter]

O.L with lanyard in and O.O with it out. I disconnected killswitch wire from engine on this test and tested kill switch wire ends.

just realized when i did my 1st and 2nd test on ignition that lanyard was unplugged.

 

[jbuote]

Well the lanyard switch sounds like it's good then.

0.L when lanyard is on it, it's not connecting to ground.
0.0 with lanyard pulled off, it IS connecting to ground.
That's what its supposed to do.. LOL

One down!! ound:

Yeah, re-test ignition switch with all wires attached, and kill lanyard in place.

 

[Dubvgogetter]

Ok with lanyard in place and everything connected:
MM terminals:
0.0 off
bunch of numbers jumping in run
O.L on

with lanyard not in place and killswitch wires off of M terminal amd black on other M terminal:
0.0 off
0.L run
0.L on

sorry for my mixup

 

[Dubvgogetter]

With everything hooked up my engine will not start. If i unhook killswitch wire to motor by engine it starts with ignition but wont turn off with ignition. Again sorry for the mixup. My last post hopefully cleared it up

 

[Dubvgogetter]

Let me double check everything in a few hours.

 

[Dubvgogetter]

I was in hot sun and rushing. Probably told u something wrong again.

 

[jbuote]

(EDIT: Missed your last 2 posts.. #25 and #26.. So yeah, double checking is good.. After that, see below.. haha!)

Interesting.....

Ok with lanyard in place and everything connected:
MM terminals:
0.0 off
bunch of numbers jumping in run
O.L on

This would seem to indicate a possible issue in the ignition switch when in the run position, but it should at least fire off when in the start position. Then die once you let go from start position...

But...

with lanyard not in place and killswitch wires off of M terminal amd black on other M terminal:
0.0 off
0.L run
0.L on

This is saying the switch tests fine! Hmmmm....

I guess the next thing I'd do (and might be overkill, but that's me.. lol ), just to verify the wires themselves, is to disconnect that kill wire boot from the ignition switch, disconnect black/yellow on engine side, disconnect the kill switch from ground, and then put one meter lead on ground and leave it there.
Then touch the other lead to different points where the black/yellow would attach. (the boot for ignition, the engine side etc.) and make sure it's not grounding out intermittently from worn insulation or being bent.

Meter should read 0.L at all times. Even move the wire at different spots to see if it affected the reading.

If it stays at 0.L, then since the kill switch itself seemed to test fine, I'd probably replace the ignition switch anyway...
It is cheap enough, and it had the strange readings. MIGHT be intermittent issue in it.

Not an expensive "Gamble" to replace it if testing the wire itself seems good too.

Make sense?

 

[Dubvgogetter]

I think the last quote you quoted me i was supposed to say everything connected on ignition but lanyard not in place. I will get back to u. Thanks for your patience

 

[Dubvgogetter]

Should be O.L on all wires? I thought that was no continuity.

 

[jbuote]

Thanks for your patience

And thank you for yours as well!!
I'm not always the best at explaining things, Just hope I'm not confusing you!

Should be O.L on all wires? I thought that was no continuity.

That's correct. 0.L is no continuity. No connection.

So if you disconnect the kill switch from ground, AND disconnect the kill "boot" from the back of the ignition switch, AND disconnect the black yellow at the engine, then you should not have any connection to ground at any time.

Therefore, with one meter lead on ground (remote casing is usually the ground) and the other meter lead on the different points of the wire, you should never have continuity. IF you do, then the wire is shorting to ground somewhere and you'll need to find that since it acts like a kill switch..

Make sense?

 

[Dubvgogetter]

Makes perfect sense!

 

[Dubvgogetter]

All testing done with killswitch attached to engine and all testing done with black ground attached to M terminal on ignition switch.

With lanyard in and everything connected on ignition:
Off is 0.0
Run is numbers climbing
On is numbere climbing

With lanyard out and everything connected on ignition:
Off is 0.0
Run is 0.0
On is 0.0

With lanyard in and 2 killswitch wires OFF of the one M terminal:
Off is 0.0
Run is 0.L
On is 0.L

With Lanyard out and 2 killswitch wires OFF of the one M terminal:
Off is 0.0
Run is 0.L
On is O.L

Thanks!!!

 

[jbuote]

Sorry it took a while, had to run some errands...

All testing done with killswitch attached to engine and all testing done with black ground attached to M terminal on ignition switch.

With lanyard in and everything connected on ignition:
Off is 0.0
Run is numbers climbing Implies possible issue in switch.
On is numbere climbing

With lanyard out and everything connected on ignition:
Off is 0.0
Run is 0.0 As I'd expect..
On is 0.0

These below are really the same test. 2 killswitch wires OFF the one M terminal.
Once it's disconnected there, lanyard in or out makes no difference.
With lanyard in and 2 killswitch wires OFF of the one M terminal:
Off is 0.0
Run is 0.L
On is 0.L

With Lanyard out and 2 killswitch wires OFF of the one M terminal:
Off is 0.0
Run is 0.L
On is O.L

Thanks!!!

So I noted a little in the quote.
What's throwing me a little is the difference in results when killswitch wires are OFF the one terminal.
With wires off, it tests fine across key off/run/start.
With wires ON, it tests fine off, but rising numbers is still continuity when in run/start...

I think the very next thing before anything else, is I'd do the test on the wires I described to verify it's not shorting to ground.
IF that checks good (and I expect it will, but you never know), I'd go ahead and replace the ignition switch.

Perhaps something got loose in the ignition switch so when the kill wires are screwed in, it puts enough pressure to contact ground somehow, but when the screw is out, there's no pressure inside so it's not contacting ground? :noidea:

In any event, that's what I'd do based on those results.
As far as I can tell, once that kill wire has been tested, you've done the testing you can, and any testing is better than no testing and just throwing parts at it, right?

Most of the data seems to point to possible ignition switch. Looks like your first instinct was probably correct.
Wish it was definitive though..

Make sense? haha!

Sorry for the delay...

 

[Dubvgogetter]

Makes sense. I should have an ignition switch here tomorrow. I will throw it on and let you know what happens. Thanks for your time, I'm learning a lot actually.

 

[jbuote]

Hey, no problem!
I was given a bunch of help here when I joined...
It made me want to help others where I can too.

Haven't found a better group of people online yet for boat issues than right here!
There's somebody with an actual answer for any question you might have...

I look forward to hearing how the new switch goes tomorrow!

 

[Dubvgogetter]

Right on man, I'm very glad i joined! Btw is my ignition considered a push choke start do u know?? They messed up on my shipping but found one locally and they said its a push choke start ignition switch.

 

[jbuote]

I'd bet it is push to choke.

Pretty sure you have a primer solenoid on that engine though.
It's not a choke really.
What the solenoid does is opens and closes a valve that allow fuel to bypass the carbs straight to the cylinders when activated. Engine must be rotating for it to work though. Fuel pump has to be pumping.. LOL

Should be a black solenoid looking thing on the side of the intake manifold.
Has a red lever on it.
When the red lever is in line with the solenoid body, that's normal operation.(solenoid will open/close valve)
Move red lever for manual prime (basically opens the valve manually) but then you'd have to close it manually too.

Anyway, that's a primer solenoid in case you didn't know.

How were you starting before? Did you have to push key in on cold starts or did you have a separate toggle or switch for "Choke/Prime"?

 

[Dubvgogetter]

The ignition switch does push in if u want it to but i just recently realized this. I do have a solenoid with red lever close to carb.

 

[jbuote]

Yup. you have a primer and push to choke.
The back of the ignition switch has a "C" terminal. That's where the wire to the primer attaches..

 

[Dubvgogetter]

Replaced ignition. Still have same problem. Replaced wire from big red plug to connector that leads to engine. Had to cut by big red plug and connector then use terminal connectors for new wire. Even after this there were some numbers showing on volt meter between connector and big red plug prong for killswitch.

At this point it may be in big red plug. Its either that or killswitch wire segment between connector and engine. Looks like i will have to take flywheel off to get to where it attaches to engine. Fun fun.