LED lights

rickrick

Cadet
Joined
Feb 4, 2003
Messages
17
Anybody know anything about these LED lights? I've only heard good things about them. I'm not sure if I have to do anything special to my lighting system before I plug one of them in. I have one main wire coming off of my battery, and then I have about 6 or 7 smaller gauge accessory wires tapping into the main wire for all of my accessories(lights,aerator,depthfinder,etc.) Can I just plug the LED light into one of my accessory wires? The reason I'm not sure is because I was reading something about a resistor and LED lights and it sounds like I need one of them. Is this true. Please help. Thanks
 

JB

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Mar 25, 2001
Messages
45,907
Re: LED lights

Where do you want to use it, Rick?<br /><br />It seems to me that the packaging will give you any instructions needed.<br /><br />There are no special requirements that I know of for trailer LED lights, but I suspect that isn't what you have in mind.
 

rickrick

Cadet
Joined
Feb 4, 2003
Messages
17
Re: LED lights

I have a 14' Lund that I use exclusively for fishing. I fish alot at night and I currently don't have any type of courtesy light in the boat for tying hooks, putting on minnows, etc. I recently bought a LED "courtesy" light and I'm not sure if I can just plug it in to one of my accessory wires that I have coming off of my 12v battery.
 

Beaux

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
390
Re: LED lights

Rick-<br />if you bought a LED light from a marine supply store for use on with a 12v system then you can simply plug/ connect it to your power as you would any other accessory. It will already have the setup to function properly. <br />I think you are referring to the postings about making your own LED lights and setups with raw materials.(i read that too- very informative) In that case, you need some of these electrical gurus like schematic to help you with what you need specifically. <br /> as JB said, you should be able to tell from the package insert whether it is a raw part (just an actual LED) or whether it is a 12v ready LED light. Good Luck
 

SS MAYFLOAT

Admiral
Joined
May 17, 2001
Messages
6,372
Re: LED lights

Hi Rick,<br /><br />Check out www.superbrightleds.com they have replacement leds that will fit in your existing sockets without having to install anything else.<br /><br />I have replaced my navigation lights with these. Haven't had the chance to see how much battery drain is compared to the standard buld yet. This will be my first season with them. They do seem to illuminate just as much as a standard buld.<br /><br />Good luck.....SS
 

SlowlySinking

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 31, 2002
Messages
897
Re: LED lights

HI SS MAYFLOAT, these look "very" interesting so I checked the current draw for a standard auto 1157 tail/stop light bulb, there are two filaments, the taillight filament draws about 600ma. same as 0.6 amp, the stop light filament draws about 2000ma. same as 2.0 amps, I compared that to the LED 1157 replacement which draw 40ma and 90ma. maximum per section. That's a dramatic reduction. However, the web site warns, "For aftermarket use. May not comply with SAE or U.S. DOT standards." It took years to get approval to use LED's in traffic signals so it will likely get approved someday. Meanwhile they would make dandy illumination lights inside a boat or motor home/travel trailer without worrying about your battery. In effect you could use about 17 to 21 of these 1157 replacements for the same power draw as one regular 1157 bulb, and that would provide a lot of light.
 

Franki

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Feb 16, 2002
Messages
1,059
Re: LED lights

What is the power use like compared to small 12v flouresent tubes??<br /><br />I know that at initial power on, the tubes draw more power, but what about if left on all night??<br /><br />I keep a dual tube in my cabin and one tube stays lit whenever I am out at night.. it seconds as my "at anchor" light. if the Leds are better, then I will probably swap over.. <br /><br />I do think its nearly impossible that the leds will produce the same amount of light.. because the tubes are very very bright. (looking at one of the tubes indicates that they are 8watts each.)<br /><br />When using incandescent lighting, I need at least 4 times the power to get the same amount of light.<br /><br />So would it be fair to say that for instrument/trailer/small deck lights etc that LEDs are the best bet and for general bright working illumination, flouresent is the better choice???<br /><br />rgds<br /><br />Franki
 

rons boat

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 28, 2002
Messages
210
Re: LED lights

I am a Engineer and have worked with LED,s since 1973. I am proud to see the technology has moved to get hi-brightness devices to the market place. Unlike regular bulbs, these devices produce a very narrow spectrum of light and don't need regular filters or lenses for there coloration. I am sure the various governmental agencies will be challanged, notice I didn't use the word "threatned" by the rapid implementation. They are extremely durable, don't break when they touch water, use much less energy, and last hundreds of thousands of hours. They do provide in there present state a very focused beam from each diode element akin to but not as tight as a laser. I have used them in Autos, Motorcycles and probably will sneak them into my Marine Nav lights after I demonstrate to a few people that when they are configured correctly that they they provide superior visiablity. Since wide angle viewing is a requirement, we must design navigation led modules so that the elements within distribute light over the proper angle. That is just fine since multiple elements are required anyway. Several element are placed in series to get the operation we need at 12V or 24V. The reds, green, and yellows are usually about at 2.2V per element and The whites and blues need about 4.4V each. That means that a series circuit of six greens, reds, or yellows with a small 10 Ohm resistor, for protection, or 4 Whites or Blues working again with a small resistor of 10 Ohms works well in many applications. Each circuit uses about .030 Amp or 30 mils of current. Need more light, just add more circuits. Units will not need sockets as they will outlast the device they are being installed in. That is great news in marine and trailer applications since the socket is almost as unreliable as the bulb within. These devices should be permanently wired without a socket for maximum reliability. Replacement modules are now begining to flood the auto market and are avialable for bulb substitutes. The 1157 Subsitute for trailers and autos has three circuits and an extra resistor to allow two speed operation or about 10 MA, for tail, and the full .030 Ma for stop and turn for each circuit. The resistor between the two contacts is simply bypassed during stop and turn operations. The LED device obains full brightness in Micro seconds unlike a light bulb which takes almost a full quarter of a second. This loss of time is a significant safety consideration and IMHO justifies that there use become mandatory for stop lights in automobiles. I designed a module years ago, but many others did the same thing and THEY brought them to market. If you use these devices then I encourage you to get fimailar with the two terms of super bright and hyper bright. The technology of super bright allows about 12 red LEDs (three circuits) to meet or exceed the light of an ordinary turn signal and the hyper bright is well beyond it. Thats why on some of these devices being offered there is a disclaimer for off road use only. Yes I am excited and I want to pay tribute to the Guys at Bell Laboratories for another one of their great inventions of the twentyth century. Oh, by the way, chances are your 3rd llight in one of your autos uses leds all ready. Notice as you drive that on many of the cars in front of you the high mounted 3rd stop light fires at a much quicker rate than the 1157 or 3157 bulbs in the tail light assembly. Watch the market as the price falls on white(led)light and challenges floresent's long domination for cabin illumination.
 

Boatist

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
4,552
Re: LED lights

Rickrick<br />The courtesy light made for auto or boats are set up for 12 volts and can be hooked right up to your 12 volt wire. Must get polarity correct for it to work. Most have a wire to hook to the +12 volts or positive side of battery and ground hooks to the mounting hole. I check a few of these out last summer but was disapointed in brightness. Could be store had hooked up to wrong voltage or battery near dead. Power use is so low could actually run off AA batteries for a long time. Since they are set for 12 volts would need 8. Ones I check last summer were about $19 and I thought too dim, but as competion picks up they will get cheaper and better.<br />If you were to go to a local store and buy the raw diodes then you would need to hook up in series to get right voltage or make a voltage regulator. Also probably need a current Limiting resistor. At xmas time saw a bunch of flashlights that used 4 to 7 LED and were quite bright but still a little pricey.<br />The one made for trailor are great can run about 10 on the same power as one regular light. They run cool and water will not harm them.
 

rons boat

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 28, 2002
Messages
210
Re: LED lights

MAKE sure the white diodes you use are Hyper bright. The current drawn is about 30 to 40 ma per cicuit. Some of the experimental diodes you canbuy may vary in brightness and certainly some would not be acceptable. I have seen and used a few that are so bright, like the one on my keychain, that they contain a warning and you should not look at them directly. Watch the market carefully as this in a high state of flux. Ron
 
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