Local Evinrude mechanic needed

[John Lapic]

Can anyone help me locate someone near my home in Salt Lake City, UT that works on old 2 stroke Evinrude’s? I have a 1971 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin. Wouldn’t start this year but after going through the carb, I got it running. I am having trouble adjusting the low speed and would like someone who knows what their doing to fine tune it for me. Hoping someone near me still has a passion for these classics. Thanks in advance.

 

[racerone]

Fact----These are elegantly simple motors.-----There is a lot you can do yourself.----Many videos available too.-----First is a compression test.----Post your numbers.----Then check spark , it must jump a gap of 1/4" or more on both leads.-----My bet is that this motor is running on 1 cylinder.

 

[oldboat1]

Initial low speed needle setting is 1 to 1 1/2 turns (counterclockwise) from lightly closed (clockwise). From there, adjust clockwise in small increments until the motor lean sneezes or quits. The open about 1/4 turn -- should be close, but don't be afraid to make slight adjustments. If non-responsive, there are other issues to be addressed (such as cleaning the idle passages on top of the carb).

To check for dropping a cylinder, start the motor and let it warm up. Pull off plug boots one at a time and see what the engine does. If no change, chances are that cylinder is not contributing.

Run in a deep container (32 gal trash container is good), with water about half way up the leg (min. 6-8" above the water pump.

 

[John Lapic]

Initial low speed needle setting is 1 to 1 1/2 turns (counterclockwise) from lightly closed (clockwise). From there, adjust clockwise in small increments until the motor lean sneezes or quits. The open about 1/4 turn -- should be close, but don't be afraid to make slight adjustments. If non-responsive, there are other issues to be addressed (such as cleaning the idle passages on top of the carb).

To check for dropping a cylinder, start the motor and let it warm up. Pull off plug boots one at a time and see what the engine does. If no change, chances are that cylinder is not contributing.

Run in a deep container (32 gal trash container is good), with water about half way up the leg (min. 6-8" above the water pump.

I adjusted the low speed per your helpful guidance and got the best performance, though it still seems to run a little rough. I also pulled plugs one at a time and engine died when each plug was pulled. I didn’t check compression. I could use some help identifying a hose (vacuum?). It runs from the cylinder area to the intake area just under the carb. Anyone know what this is? The original hose age hardened and cracked under the carb and periodically I got a backfire that blew gas through the crack. I replaced it with a vacuum hose and hope that works. Thanks

 

[John Lapic]

Can anyone help me locate someone near my home in Salt Lake City, UT that works on old 2 stroke Evinrude’s? I have a 1971 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin. Wouldn’t start this year but after going through the carb, I got it running. I am having trouble adjusting the low speed and would like someone who knows what their doing to fine tune it for me. Hoping someone near me still has a passion for these classics. Thanks in advance.

I adjusted as described below. See my reply and photo I’m hoping someone can help me figure out. Thanks

 

[racerone]

Not a vacuum hose.----It is a bleed hose that scavenges fuel / oil from intake manifold.----It should keep running on 1 cylinder.

 

[John Lapic]

Not a vacuum hose.----It is a bleed hose that scavenges fuel / oil from intake manifold.----It should keep running on 1 cylinder.

If the outboard should run on one cylinder what would it indicate if it does after pulling either plug boot? Could whatever that is cause a rough running unit? I did change points several years ago when I bought the motor and it gets very little use. I was planning to run some Seafoam through it to see if that helps.

 

[John Lapic]

If the outboard should run on one cylinder what would it indicate if it does after pulling either plug boot? Could whatever that is cause a rough running unit? I did change points several years ago when I bought the motor and it gets very little use. I was planning to run some Seafoam through it to see if that helps.

Should read posts before submitting. I meant to say what could it mean if it DIES after pulling either plug boot

 

[racerone]

Fact.-----These motors will run very well on one cylinder.----Seen it a 100 times.----So something is wrong with your motor.----Does spark jump a gap of 5/16" on both leads , yes or no ?----Compression test numbers must be posted.-----Does primer bulb go hard , yes or no ?----Is carburetor confirmed clean ?-----Fuel pump diaphragm confirmed good ?-----Since I can not see , hear or feel your motor it is up to you to provide information/ facts.----If that is difficult than hurry to your local shop if you can find one that works on older motors.

 

[John Lapic]

Fact.-----These motors will run very well on one cylinder.----Seen it a 100 times.----So something is wrong with your motor.----Does spark jump a gap of 5/16" on both leads , yes or no ?----Compression test numbers must be posted.-----Does primer bulb go hard , yes or no ?----Is carburetor confirmed clean ?-----Fuel pump diaphragm confirmed good ?-----Since I can not see , hear or feel your motor it is up to you to provide information/ facts.----If that is difficult than hurry to your local shop if you can find one that works on older motors.

Primer bulb does not go hard which I thought was odd. I replaced the primer hose last year and it never went hard like the previous. I chalked that off to a new design but may have been wrong. I will say the carb is confirmed clean. I soaked it once it was disassembled in carb cleaner for the max time recommended, hosed it thoroughly with water then a compressed air dry. I’ll check compression this week and post results. I also have not checked fuel pump diaphraigm

 

[John Lapic]

Primer bulb does not go hard which I thought was odd. I replaced the primer hose last year and it never went hard like the previous. I chalked that off to a new design but may have been wrong. I will say the carb is confirmed clean. I soaked it once it was disassembled in carb cleaner for the max time recommended, hosed it thoroughly with water then a compressed air dry. I’ll check compression this week and post results. I also have not checked fuel pump diaphraigm

Ok here’s what I’ve found, I’ve got 5/16 spark on both plugs, compression is 89 and 91 psi, primer bulb does not go hard like it used to, I’m not sure how to check the pump diaphragm. I did disassemble it and all rubber components appear good. I did notice it have one small spring where it seemed two were needed. Looking for an exploded view of a pump to check. I did pull the carb again to verify all jets are clear. Still working that. It seems to be running rich as plugs are very wet and it’s blowing a lot of smoke even with a 50:1 oil mix. Any more thoughts will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.