Locked Tilt

[Cidecar2]

I have the same issue with a 1993 48 spl evinrude except mine locked in the tilt up position. We live in cold winter area so I had to get the motor down to keep snow/water out of the prop exhaust. I took out one of the set screws and let the pressure out and the oil that was with it. Big mistake as it would appear there is no way to re-charge the damn things. Buying replacement is out of the question because of the cost vs the value of the motor assuming one could be found. Same with power trim. Buying the unit, paying a pro to install it plus trying to locate the proper console mount controls does not pencil. So I pose this question as a lot of people still have these units and have this problem. Could a machinist design and make an older style manual tilt mechanism to prop up the motor safely and also lock the motor in the run position. Had an old 75 HP Rude V4 which was a great motor. Once you tilted it there was a lever that operated a "U" shaped bail that securley locked in place to hold the motor up. Further there was a flip switch to lock it in the down position. Why they got away from this bullet-proof approach is beyond me. Anyone feel free to post advice.

 

[GA_Boater]

Cidecar2 Gave you a new thread of your own. 13 years old is way past time to post in a dead thread.

 

[oldboat1]

Isn't that the tilt assist cylinder that was on a number of models in the '80s and '90s? I'm guessing the motor can be tilted and lowered without that cylinder. Isn't there a tilt and release lock -- right side, I think?

 

[jimmbo]

The System on the old V4s was anything but secure. The engine was not locked in place in either of the two tilted positions, it was just sitting there, gravity holding it down, and if trailered like that, would merrily bounce up and down until something would break and then the engine would drop down and there would be a mess that used to be a gear case. This is one place where a transom saver would actually be a good idea.
As for the mess you created for yourself... why didn't you just flip the tilt lock control on the side to run, lift the engine up till you heard 'click' then lowered it?
While it is possible to run with the shock/tilt assist cylinder not functioning, I wouldn't recommend doing so. If there is an impact at speed, without the damping action of the cylinder, the engine could be violently flipped up, breaking the transom brackets, and end up inside the boat, spinning prop and all