long vs short shaft outboards

[rolyat]

My associate wants to buy a kicker for his I/O boat for back up. (He was stuck in the shipping channel with a motor failure, and didn't like it.)<br /><br />So, where are the 15", 20", etc. shaft lengths measured from? Is it the top of the transom, or bracket to the extreme bottom of the shaft? or to the centerline of the prop?<br /><br />I understand that the cavitation plate ought to be a bit under the static water level, with the OB bracket in the down position. Is this right?<br /><br />Thanks, Rolyat

 

[steelespike]

Re: long vs short shaft outboards

Shaft length is measured from the part of the clamp that rests on the top of the transom to the cavitation plate.I believe the cavitation plate should be at least where you indicate.I would think you would run it as deep as is practical.You dont want the powerhead so low waves wash over it and you dont<br />want the prop sucking air.If you use a long shaft motor it could be mounted higher so it is easier <br />to reach.Ive never used a kicker Im just throwing in a little info from a logical point of view. Good luck.

 

[smalloutboardsarecool]

Re: long vs short shaft outboards

long shaft is morefor sailboats wit high transomes, two motors are good but a good working one is better thentwo that are never care for!

 

[Boatist]

Re: long vs short shaft outboards

Rolyat<br />You did not say what tyoe boat and for what use. In general the cavition plate should be below the Bottom of the hull where you mount it. If it is a a bass boat and your fishing small lakes and rivers that is probably good enough. If you go offshore or fish large open water you will want it deeper. My boat is a 21 foot runabout I have a 20 inch shaft and have it mounted on a lift bracket with 11 inches of lift. On rough days with winds over 20 mph offshore I use motor for backing into the wind. With the motor all the way down waves some times almost cover it but still on the back side will come out of the water and throw water all over my starboard back fisherman. Up at the lake Black Bass fishing or Salmon trolling in river or backing the ladies into a beach I never put motor all the way down. So really just depends on the use.

 

[oldboat1]

Re: long vs short shaft outboards

I think I would opt for a little more length, rather than less -- achieved either by lowering the kicker motor a little further or getting a longshaft model (or both). A mounting bracket that you can raise or lower is an excellent way to go. 20" from the top of the mounting bracket (top of the transom) to the ventilation plate is considered a longshaft model, but sailboat motors (e.g., Evinrude Yachtwin) are even longer, and can have a double ventilation plate. For a kicker, I think it's better to make sure the intake is always in the water (Take into account some wave action). If that means the ventilation plate is lower than you would want in the main motor, that's OK -- performance/planing is not the issue.

 

[Luna Sea]

Re: long vs short shaft outboards

I own a 20' Lund Alaskan, just purchased, and can't sell my Quicksilver inflateable cause it's got that UV damage. The reason I'm in this group is cause the boats a 95 BUT the 85 120hp Evinrude has some problems. So I took the 95 25hp Yamaha off the raft and put it on the back of the lund for backup/trolling. Haven't taken it out yet and looked into one of the heavy duty brackets like you're talking about. I know the motors a little big but I own it and it runs great. My concern was the 15 inch shaft also. seems if I lower the adj. bracket the tiller might not be as accessable. Hate to sell this motor and end up with another lemon. Looks like mounted as is, it will suck up water but not sure what else it'll do. Guess there's only one way to find out..... But would hate to launch it and watch the water come up over the back..........happy boating

 

[oldboat1]

Re: long vs short shaft outboards

You can purchase a tiller extension that has double joints so you can attach to the tiller handle when the motor is in the lower position. I have one of these and it works pretty well -- not great, but pretty well. I bought mine at Boat U.S. ($50).<br /><br />You can also hook up cables and a box for remote throttle and shift, and look at ways to piggy-back the steering off the main motor. The EZ Steer system might work well for you -- haven't tried it but it's been around for a while. (Its the one that attaches to the motor legs -- Other posters might be able to comment on how effective it is -- or isn't.)