Looking For An Alternate Way To Winterize 5.0EFI Bravo II

[Rickochet]

I have a houseboat that stays in the water 24/7. I has 2001 Merc EFI Bravo II engines. Each engine has 6 of the blue wing nut drain plugs. The two in the lower sides of the blocks are super difficult to get to and one the bottom of the fuel cooler are almost impossible to get to. My usual winterization procedure is to drain remove all the plugs, reinstall then fill the engines up antifreeze in the stat housing. I am an old geezer with arthritis and can no longer do this. My marina no longer has a mechanic so no help there. I do have open top strainers in the seawater intake line but according to Mercruiser it would take about 12 gallons of anitfreeze to go through the system while running before it came out the exhaust.
I was wondering if there was any way to disconnect some hoses and either vacuum water out or pump antifreeze through the system.

 

[alldodge]

Even sucking 12 gallons thru would not guarantee that all the water was replaced with AF, so don't recommend it. Don't see anyway other then draining first to guarantee a no freeze.

I see your in KY and unless your on a small lake, there are many marine outfits that would come your way (Cumberland, Dale, Laurel, others). That said, I do know this can be costly.

 

[Rickochet]

Even sucking 12 gallons thru would not guarantee that all the water was replaced with AF, so don't recommend it. Don't see anyway other then draining first to guarantee a no freeze.

I see your in KY and unless your on a small lake, there are many marine outfits that would come your way (Cumberland, Dale, Laurel, others). That said, I do know this can be costly.

The only time I tried this I sucked 4 gallons of antifreeze into each engine. I decided to check and clear water came out of the block drains. I am on smaller lake. I recently had to get a Merc tech in for some engine work. The only one that would come to my lake was 50 miles away so I got to pay for his drive time at full rate. It was not cheap but I was just happy to get him to look at the boat.

In the least if I could get the fuel cooler sucked dry that would be a major help. It is located on the bottom of each motor near the rear mount and stringer with the plug on the bottom. Perhaps the hose to and from can be undone.

 

[Scott Danforth]

To expand on what AD stated, if the thermostat doesnt open, all the AF does is simply go out the exhaust, never getting to the block and heads

Even if you got the motor hot, the second the antifreeze got to the thermostat it would slam shut and the AF would go out the exhauat and not get to the block or heads

There is no substitute to draining short of parking the boat in a giant tub of antifreeze and running it underload for about 10 minutes. And that is not feasible or practical

 

[Bt Doctur]

You know, if you were to post your location maybe some recommendation could be made for shops nearby

 

[alldodge]

The cool fuel module (port side under motor mount) can be drained by removing the hose going up to the thermostat housing. Disconnect the hose and lower it to the bilge, just make sure it all goes low. Once water comes out then it can be reconnected.

You could make it easier for next season but would take some more work this one. Remove plugs and adapters on the blocks. Install barbed fittings and rubber hoses to extend out forward, with other fittings.

 

[Rickochet]

You know, if you were to post your location maybe some recommendation could be made for shops nearby

I am at Green River Lake in Campbellsvile, KY. I had some major engine issues and am very knowledgeable of who and who won't come to the lake but perhaps I missed some. Any help is always appreciated, thanks. Another issue is that our marina has some restrictions on off site contractors working at the marina.

 

[Rickochet]

The cool fuel module (port side under motor mount) can be drained by removing the hose going up to the thermostat housing. Disconnect the hose and lower it to the bilge, just make sure it all goes low. Once water comes out then it can be reconnected.

You could make it easier for next season but would take some more work this one. Remove plugs and adapters on the blocks. Install barbed fittings and rubber hoses to extend out forward, with other fittings.

Great tip, thanks. Where does the hose from the cooler connect? Would it be possible to disconnect the end near the stat and one in the aft and vacuum the cooler water out?

There is a company that makes a quick drain system that has brass fittings that covert the 1/2 - 13 threads of the blue wing nuts to pipe thread where you can use barbed fittings. My fear of trying to remove the OEM fittings is one breaking off. Plus, the starboard block drain has a "Y" with an anti-knock sensor.

 

[alldodge]

Great tip, thanks. There is a company that makes a quick drain system that has brass fittings that covert the 1/2 - 13 threads of the blue wing nuts to pipe thread where you can use barbed fittings. My fear of trying to remove the OEM fittings is one breaking off. Plus, the starboard block drain has a "Y" with an anti-knock sensor.

They OEM fittings should be brass 1/4 NPT to the 1/2-13 Merc.



The Y fitting with the knock sensor should also be 1/4 NPT with the above fitting attached. Now the cool fuel will not have this fitting on it

The hose going to the cool fuel could also be cut and one of these installed

 

[alldodge]

I've been to Green river many times and still pass by in my travels, and agree there is not that much there so far as repair/maintenance

 

[89retta]

Perhaps a fellow member in your area might offer to come give you hand. Its always nice to meet another member and shoot the **** about boats.

 

[Rickochet]

They OEM fittings should be brass 1/4 NPT to the 1/2-13 Merc.



The Y fitting with the knock sensor should also be 1/4 NPT with the above fitting attached. Now the cool fuel will not have this fitting on it

The hose going to the cool fuel could also be cut and one of these installed

Starboard block Y has the knock sensor and a blue plug. I don't recall the hose size going to the cooler but a tee with a plug would be great if I can get to it. I think it is 3/4 - 1" maybe. Will check next time to the lake.

 

[Rickochet]

Perhaps a fellow member in your area might offer to come give you hand. Its always nice to meet another member and shoot the **** about boats.

I am considering that. What I need is a young skinny dude to put the plugs back in. Unfortunately most of the people I see at the marina are old geezers like me. :blue:

 

[Rickochet]

I have a "what if" question. What if, I take the thermostats out and suck antifreeze into the engines until it comes out the exhaust? Will this not circulate antifreeze through the system?

 

[alldodge]

Don't see how you can fish a tube from the thermostat housing to the bottom of each side of the block.

 

[Rickochet]

Don't see how you can fish a tube from the thermostat housing to the bottom of each side of the block.

I have seacocks and Perko Clear Top strainers. I was talking about closing the seacocks, take the top off and pour antifreeze in the strainer after starting the engines with the thermostats out. The raw water pump will suck the solution up as it is poured into the strainers. I tried this years ago and poured it in the strainers and it took about 4 gal. until it came out the exhaust. I ran the engines until warm but I guess the stats closed as soon as the cool antifreeze. I was curious if the antifreeze would circulate with the stats out.

 

[Rickochet]

Double post, sorry.

 

[Rickochet]

A triple post, sorry again.

 

[Bt Doctur]

1. you will be diluting the water with AF. There is no guarantee you will have adequate freeze protection
You can try it and let us know how it worked out in the Spring of 2019. Some kind of liquid must always be leaving the exaust to cool the rubber components, so seeing come out the exaust means nothing

 

[tacx]

I suggest what 89retta said. If you live on a lake that is big enough to have a marina there should be plenty of boat owners. Put up an ad at the marina for help with getting to the drains. Always someone looking to make a couple bucks and some that would gladly do it for free
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