Lots of ignition/starter/alternator questions

[SSTKO81]

I'm going to enclose plenty of pictures here soon so you'll see what I see. I'm trying to make sure all my Ts are crossed and i(s) dotted....
So the alternator I've got is a GM unit. The 4 wire system is now a 3. I've got the red and orange wires spliced together. That just leaves my ground and a purple wire that tests 15V w/ ignition on (12v when points are closed?) Up till now I've had that wire just capped but seems it should probably hook to one of the two spade terminals on the alternator. Which one?

Next, the coil tests 2.8Ohm across the terminals 15.83v on + side with points open,5.28 when closed. Negative side is 15.82 w/ points open .06 when closed.-sounds correct. However, I use an aftermarket Pertronix coil, which I think requires 12v; should I be bypassing the resistor wire so I get 12v?

Finally, I think buying a new cap is the short answer but It seems my dist. cap is getting chipped up at some points by the rotor. Is this normal?

I'm asking all this because I'm still chasing a no start issue. I'm still using my engine that's on its last leg as compression on 2 of the cylinders is only in the high 90s but should still fire and it's not

 

[alldodge]

Still waiting for the pics

Your 15.8V is way out of line, what is connected to the bat to make it read that high?

 

[SSTKO81]

[No message]

 

[alldodge]

I see an automotive ALT installed and that is a :nono: , its not ignition protected and can blow your boat up.

The +15V is showing the ALTS regulator is bad.

Also the flamethrower coil is not used with points, unless it states to use with an external resistor

 

[SSTKO81]

I can't explain the 15v. I'm measuring that at the battery...
Aside from blowing myself up it appears some of my issue may lie with the coil. I still have the old one. I'll put it on and see what happens.
What determines if a coil will work with points or if it won't?

 

[SSTKO81]

Kinda putting some additional pices of the puzzle together here... a few years back I got a pertronix igniter for the distributor but couldn't get it to work so I took it back off in favor of the points. I'll bet having the resistor wire still in play with the original coil played a part in that. (Just thinking out loud)

 

[alldodge]

I can't explain the 15v. I'm measuring that at the battery...

If the regulator malfunctions, or a diode goes bad, you will see more the 14.5 volts. The worst part of seeing greater then 14.5V is that it can overheat your battery and it will break open or even explode.

What determines if a coil will work with points or if it won't?

Points require and external resistor feeding the coil. When cranking the motor the coil gets a full 12V, after it starts and key is released, the 12V goes thru the resistor to the coil.

Electronic ignition needs a resistor built into the coil and gets full 12V while starting or runnning

 

[alldodge]

Kinda putting some additional pices of the puzzle together here... a few years back I got a pertronix igniter for the distributor but couldn't get it to work so I took it back off in favor of the points. I'll bet having the resistor wire still in play with the original coil played a part in that. (Just thinking out loud)

I don't see any issue with a non-running motor and getting the readings on the coil

 

[SSTKO81]

If the regulator malfunctions, or a diode goes bad, you will see more the 14.5 volts. The worst part of seeing greater then 14.5V is that it can overheat your battery and it will break open or explode

Is this true even tho im getting this reading without the engine running?

Also I did some checking on my coil. According to pertronix the 1.5 ohm is ok to used with points
That being said, today I pulled the cond/points and tried my igniter2 again while by-passing the resistor wire. Didn't check plugs because I ran out of time, but it didn't sound like it was getting spark. So my next experiment will be to run down to the hardware store and pick up new points/condenser and put the old coil back in and see if that works. At this point I just want the engine to start

 

[alldodge]

Is this true even tho im getting this reading without the engine running?

With you getting the reading without the motor running or it being connected to a battery charger tells me your meter is either defective, or your not getting a good ground

 

[SSTKO81]

Rechecked all my grounds today and made sure my alternator (tho it is an automotive) was hooked up properly - actually ended up replacing it because if a broken terminal. Took the pertronix igniter out and put the points back in after cleaning and filing them. Lo-and-behold she started! -screeching terribly and has engine knock but starts and runs! Thanks for your help AllDodge.