lower unit removal

Laddies

Banned
Joined
Sep 10, 2004
Messages
12,218
Re: lower unit removal

The tube looks great, I would put some putty on both sides to stop harmonics on the lower pipe and leave the ends open for exhaust as I and not sure how the exhaust relief works and don't have one to look at right now.
 

matth121

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
275
Re: lower unit removal

Hey Laddies, thanks for all your help. Got it back together and i've got an obvious improvement in exhaust thru the prop when i cover the upper exhaust vent at idle and force it out the bottom. Noticable difference in acceleration too, but I still only hit 2700, well now its up to 2800rpm at full throttle. Here's something though, i moved the wire from my tiny tach from the bottom plug wire to the upper plugwire and it was all messed up. At idle it was reading 3800rpm, no chance this is right. Is it possible i have a bad coil. Any thoughts on how to test it? any thoughts at all about why it's so sluggish when in gear? Thanks
Matt
 

Laddies

Banned
Joined
Sep 10, 2004
Messages
12,218
Re: lower unit removal

Look up under the flywheel and make sure a magnet has not come lose, if they are both 180 degrees apart, test the high speed stator winding
 

matth121

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
275
Re: lower unit removal

would the magnets be hard to see? or can i just shine a flashlight up there? also, how would i check the high speed stator wiring. I'm pretty handy with a mutimeter, but i wouldnt know where to start.
 

matth121

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
275
Re: lower unit removal

After doing a bit of research, i have another question. If my high speed stator wiring was bad or fried, would I be able to exceed 2500rpm in neutral? or would it just hit the upper limit of the low speed stator and sit at those rpms, 2500 is what i found here
http://1manual.com/Mercury manuals/Service Manual PDFs/TwoStroke/826883r2/2a.pdf

quote"
The BLACK stator assembly ismounted belowthe flywheel and has a lowspeed (LS) and
a high speed (HS) capacitor charging coil. Low speed coil provides primary voltage to the
switch box from idle to approximately 2500 RPM. The high speed coil provides primary
voltage from 2000 RPM to the maximum RPM the outboard is capable of achieving."

I'd really love to get this fixed, thanks for the help
 

Laddies

Banned
Joined
Sep 10, 2004
Messages
12,218
Re: lower unit removal

Free reving don't prove anything and be damaging to your engine. Here's a simple test for the ign. system.

scan.jpg


You can also use your tiny tach and make sure your not losing a cyl as speed increases
 

matth121

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
275
Re: lower unit removal

wow, thanks for this. umm, if this is a simple test, i guess i must be complicated cause its a bit over my head. I have a few questions about the test. Whats meant by OEM and CDI resistance? is it just testing at different points along the same wire? Step 3 in the last 2 scenarios, the inductive tach...i can use my tiny tach for this right? and of course, i'm not packing a DVA meter, so should I drop a pile of $$ on one, or maybe a little less on an adapter for my MM, or should i just focus on the resistance tests and the tach tests? not sure where i'd be right now without this site and specifically, your help, thanks.
 

Laddies

Banned
Joined
Sep 10, 2004
Messages
12,218
Re: lower unit removal

CDI uses heavier wire in the stators so the OHM differantly than OEM, your's is propably OEM. First OHM test the stator not the best but way better than no test and if that don't find anything try the tach test.
CDI = a CDI manufactured part, OEM = a Mercury manufactued part.
 

Laddies

Banned
Joined
Sep 10, 2004
Messages
12,218
Re: lower unit removal

Here's a diagram to build a DVA for under $10 with radio shack parts.
DVAAdapter.gif
 

matth121

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
275
Re: lower unit removal

lmao, i've been looking at that schematic for the last 30 mins. have to give it a shot i guess.thanks
 

matth121

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
275
Re: lower unit removal

just got back from "the Source" who bought out radio shack here in Canada a few years ago. Diode was in an assorted pack of 25 or 40, resistor i was going to have to make up out of smaller ones and the greencap just wasnt there. Guess i'll have to order online or try and borrow/rent one from local marine store.
 

matth121

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
275
Re: lower unit removal

ok, got the dva built by a local electronics shop, cost me $10, raining though so cant test today. I still have no idea what the difference between OEM and CDI resistance is though. Can you explain it for me? Thanks.
 

Laddies

Banned
Joined
Sep 10, 2004
Messages
12,218
Re: lower unit removal

When testing between the 2 different colored wires or terminals if the stator is built by Mercury (OEM) it will have a different OHM reading than a stator built by CDI electronics because they have improved the original design by using heavier wire in their stator. the heavy wire has a different OHM reading than the light (OEM) wire thus 2 different readings are listed for OHMs but the voltage (DVA) remains the same for either manufacture.
 

matth121

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
275
Re: lower unit removal

ok now that makes perfect sense. So based on my resistance readings, i should be able to tell which stator I have, right? The resistance test can be done without the engine even running right? Thanks Laddies, you really are a sumpreme mariner.
 

matth121

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
275
Re: lower unit removal

ok now i'm really confused. I'm thinking my DVA doesnt work- at 1000 VDC, i get a reading of 7 on both blk/yel and blk/wht, both drop as revs increase. As far as resistance, i'm not getting anywhere near the readings i should be. All that aside, i tried the tach on the upper cylinder again- it's reading double what the lower cylinders rpm is. So, i decided to try to switch the coils around but my standard sockets didnt fit so i ended up swapping trigger wires and then plug wires. Now both cylinders are showing the same rpm's- right around 5100rpms at WOT, might get more with less weight. Here's the problem. Even with both cylinders firing, according to the tach, i still only get 10km/h on the water. Everyone i've talked to says my 25 should make my boat jump out of the water. As i was trailering my boat after testing, an older guy driving by stopped to chat. He said he used to own a boat just like mine. Perfect. I asked him how it used to move on the water and found he had a 9.5 on his and said it was great. I told him about my top speed and he immediately told me I had to be waterlogged. He said the 25 should make that boat fly. He then proceeded to tell me about a couple of boats he'd owned that he had to rip the floor up and remove a type of foam flotation material under the floor that had become waterlogged. Apparently, there's no way to get the water out once it's in. I was all set to drill a hole to check for this foam when something occured to me. I told him that my 40lb thrust electric motor could move the boat 1/2 the speed of the merc at WOT. That changes things completely, doesnt it? there's no way that a 25hp motor should have so little power. So what do i do now. I have no ideas anymore. it seems to run great, just absolutely gutless. Appreciate any further help you can offer.
matt
 
Top