Lower Unit Trashed?

[friendcal]

So, I'm thinking I may have really screwed up. I didn't drain anything out of my lower unit when winter hit. (In fact, I didn't get my winterization done until after the freeze hit. Who would have thought winter would actually come to Minnesota?)

Anywho, the lower unit behind the propeller is cracked. I don't know what to call the thing other than expensive. It's the cone that leads through the water. You can see from the pictures that the cracks are thin - 1/16" to 1/8". From what I'm reading, I could drill out the ends of the cracks (to relieve stress), then clean with acetone, then epoxy...and pray. Oh, and test before the family vacation. If it fails the test, pull the drain plug and create some fish habitat. If not, I spent $10 and some time instead of $1500 that I don't have.

From what I see from the diagrams, that piece should take all that much pressure to blow the case apart. It would take most of the pressure from the water coming at it. T/F?

Should I take the gear housing off/apart and clean the inside thoroughly before applying JB Weld? Is there any risk that I will push JB Weld into the gear housing and cause problems down the line?

And is JB Marine Weld my best option or should I be looking at some other marine epoxy?

 

[gm280]

Re: Lower Unit Trashed?

So, I'm thinking I may have really screwed up. I didn't drain anything out of my lower unit when winter hit. (In fact, I didn't get my winterization done until after the freeze hit. Who would have thought winter would actually come to Minnesota?)

Anywho, the lower unit behind the propeller is cracked. I don't know what to call the thing other than expensive. It's the cone that leads through the water. You can see from the pictures that the cracks are thin - 1/16" to 1/8". From what I'm reading, I could drill out the ends of the cracks (to relieve stress), then clean with acetone, then epoxy...and pray. Oh, and test before the family vacation. If it fails the test, pull the drain plug and create some fish habitat. If not, I spent $10 and some time instead of $1500 that I don't have.

From what I see from the diagrams, that piece should take all that much pressure to blow the case apart. It would take most of the pressure from the water coming at it. T/F?

Should I take the gear housing off/apart and clean the inside thoroughly before applying JB Weld? Is there any risk that I will push JB Weld into the gear housing and cause problems down the line?

And is JB Marine Weld my best option or should I be looking at some other marine epoxy?

There is always the option to remove the foot and disassemble it and have it TIG welded and fixed... It has been done many many times before...

 

[haulnazz15]

Re: Lower Unit Trashed?

Or just buy a brand new unit from SEI w/warranty for $700.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: Lower Unit Trashed?

I`d be looking at the gears and bearings first. sitting that long with even lake water will damage the gears and bearings.

 

[friendcal]

Re: Lower Unit Trashed?

Nope. Boat trashed. The engine block is cracked, the exhaust manifold is cracked. The mechanic "guessed" $6000-$7000...and I bought it for $4000. Yep. I screwed up.

 

[haulnazz15]

Re: Lower Unit Trashed?

Well, a new reman engine is $1,500, manifolds are a few hundred, and a used lower is probably $400 on craigslist. You can have it back up and running for $2500 I'd imagine if you want to do most of the work yourself.

 

[friendcal]

Re: Lower Unit Trashed?

Well, a new reman engine is $1,500, manifolds are a few hundred, and a used lower is probably $400 on craigslist. You can have it back up and running for $2500 I'd imagine if you want to do most of the work yourself.

$1,500 for a reman engine? That sounds a lot better. I'll have to check Craigslist for a lower unit. I read somewhere that the upper part is the only one that you have to worry about gear ratios. Is that correct?

 

[haulnazz15]

Re: Lower Unit Trashed?

$1,500 for a reman engine? That sounds a lot better. I'll have to check Craigslist for a lower unit. I read somewhere that the upper part is the only one that you have to worry about gear ratios. Is that correct?

That is correct for an Alpha I drive like yours, just make sure you get the correct lower unit to match yours. I can't tell what you have, but as long as you get one that matches your correct Generation (I or II are the only options), it'll bolt right up. Rapido Marine, US Engines, etc all provide reman longblocks that you can just swap your existing intake/accessories to and drop it back in.