Lund Nisswa Restoration

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

OOps,
Pic #1/Post #18, in the lower right hand corner of photo, if this is the hairy stuff you are referring to, this is where I had cut the fiberglass fuel tank support piece out, (There is a little edge of the cut glass sticking up from the boat hull in the picture that I need to grind off, the tip of the pen is pointing to the delam/loose fiberglass at the keel rub point.
OH, yes, believe me I have read ondavr posts, and will read again, amazing what you guys are doing, the cutting the boat in half has kept me up late a few nights now reading that job. I am well versed with the search button.
Found a man here in town that is experienced in fiberglass boat repair, he is coming over tommorrow to take a look, I am hoping he may assist in the glassing job and mainly I will be learning alot from him.
I think I am making a bigger deal of the actual fiber glass application process than it may be, but I have seen shotty work before,
and I do not want to do a half A%$ job and have all the effort fall apart on me.

I posted 3 wider angle pictures that were taken from the same point as pic #1/post #18
Scott
N.D.

 

[erikgreen]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Very repairable from what I can see. Just don't go halfway on it and try to cover it over with something.

Interesting factoid: One of the easier ways to remove fuel tanks from larger boats for cleaning/replacement is to cut a large rectangular hole the size of the tank IN THE BOTTOM OF THE HULL!

What you've got there looks to be a less than foot square section that'll need to be ground clean, and epoxy patched from the outside and inside. Not a show stopper unless that will exceed your time and money budget for the boat.

With regards to the transom, I'd recommend further investigation. If you're at the point you are now, consider pulling the whole thing and redoing it... it'll be way easier than doing it again later. If you just want to patch the one spot, you need to overlap the "plug" using butt joint all around on the surrounding wood (not pretty)... the main thing a transom is there for is stiffness, it transfers the thrust from the engine to the stringers, so you can't really just stick a piece of wood in there to get the thickness matched, it has to not flex just like the rest of the transom.

I feel your pain as the tasks keep adding up... been there done that

I'm finally back from Chicago, I'll get to work on my own boat tomorrow for the first time this week. I missed it.

Erik

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

I have to agree with the others, this is a non issue and can be easily fixed while you're doing the rest of the work.

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Great to hear the keel delam is not a big deal to you guys, thanks for the reassurance, I have heat/air on it now to help dry out.
Yes I agree on the Transom, have gone this far may as well replace that too, would be foolish to do it any other way, I dug some more with a drill bit up high in the transom where there were screw holes, and the wood is sort of punky/damp.
So back to that splashwell drain hole insert, how do they remove those? I looked at new boats yesterday at a boatshow and these inserts are now a two piece design, I guess I just have to mangle it to get it out?


Scott.

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Motors removed, Transom is rotten except for the very outside tops, I am glad I listened to those who said just do the Transom while I am this far.
Those Splashwell inserts were removed by using a sharp chisel around the lip, tapping lightly it cut the lip off like going through butter.
SSR

 

[oops!]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

glad your doing the transom now.... better all at once than ripping it all out again later....

back to that soft spot in the hull. is it scarred from the trailer rubbing?

you will need to reinforce the interior of the hull.

and depending on the exterior of the hull...it can be finished just like you would repair a big scrape

cheers
oops

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Yes the trailer had been rubbing it pretty good, the exterior scarring is covered by a keel guard now, that was another bandaid I had applied a few years back. Will have to remove the keel guard I guess to do any repair to the outside of the boat, I thought I would start by grinding down from the inside to see if I can get to the bottom of the delam.
I am currently digging wood off the transom, I could nt do the pull the method, so I am scraping, the darn gunwhales are gonna have to come off now too because the Transom wood is behind it, I guess I will be down to a bare boat, No wood or original structure, just fiberglass.

Thanks for your inputs
Scott

 

[oops!]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

the transom is glassed to the gunwhales. did you take your grinder and cut the joint first.?

the keel gaurd has to come off. you will need to get at the affected area

you can get to the majority of the soft spot from the inside. make sure you wear your grinding resporator.

cheers...the fun has just started

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Holy Crap, seems the fiberglassing of the Transom is where this boat was at its best. This particular Transom is 1/2" ply - Glued to 1/2" ply and then under that is a 1/4" ply fiberglassed in, so the two outer 1/2" plys are coming off pretty easy, but that inner 1/4" of ply that is glassed in like IRON.
Over-all Transom thickness of 1-1/4".
Well, I had a little time so I chipped some of the rot out, next step is to cut the glass that hooks the gunwhale to the transom and remove the rear part of the gunwhale.

Gonna be out of town for a few days so I guess she will have to wait.

Scott R.

 

[oops!]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

yer doin good......its a pita....but keep chippin away....


funny how work gets in the way of boats......ive been off my boat for a full week now......im gettin antsy !

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

OOps/Erik/Ondarvr;
OK, I need to purchase plywood but have some serious contradictions in opinions of which kind of wood to use.
If I am gonna use PT, I need to get it drying for a month at least, but many on here say dont use it if it will be in contact with Aluminum, and then some say Epoxy dont stick to it, as far as I can see the only aluminum contact would be the Transom Cap.
And stainless steel fastners are not affected by PT are they?

Then the other option is exterior grade ply, making sure to seal it thoroughly (Especially the edges with Epoxy).
Which wood should I go with?
Marine Ply is out of question, cannot get it in N.D.
Thanks
Scott

 

[oops!]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

this is oops opinion....

*****disclaimer....what the heck do i know....my boat isnt in the water....
(for that matter.......some times ...neither are both my oars....)

i am a big pressure treated fan........but tashasdaddy opened my eyes to somthing.....

pressure treated wood does not like any aluminum or stainless steel.

you are in an outboard situation...the wood will contact the alum.....so i would not use it in your situation.....it would eat stainless steel screws and all metal thru hull fittings.

i like pressure treated for inboard situations....

the difference between plywood (exterior grade and good one side interior) and marine grade is dampness of the wood and the amount of voids between the plywood layers...marine grade has less.

td uses exterior ply for ob transoms......

just remember....whatever wood you use...it must be dry....and completely sealed.....with resin....the resin must permeate the wood....(saturate)...

some people use cabosil to laminate the sheets of plywood togeather...i like to use fiberglass matt......

there is lots of ways to build a boat.....most ways work good enough for 20-30 years....chances are...thats longer than youll own the boat....

hope that helps you...

cheers
oops

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

I use Green Wood XL boat panels, they're dried PT, but older style chemicals, so they aren't as corrosive to Aluminum.

SS is OK with the newer PT and all the bolts going through the transom should be SS anyhow so your OK. Your transom clamps should only be in contact with fiberglass, so that's not a problem either.

Polyester and epoxy will bond to PT about the same as they do to exterior grade plywood, the big problem is that you're getting very wet wood that can take a long time to dry out. If it's not dry when used then nothing will stick to it very well.

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Transom wood is removed! Took all day yesterday and a few hours this Morning, the outer 1 inch was easy, the inner 1/4" that had fiberglass on it was not easy, alot of scraping involved here, I know, alot of sanding still but I am going to do all sanding later (Outside).

What is your opinion on using MDO Plywood, it is the stuff they make billboard signs from, I looked at some today and it sure looks like some quality stuff, just wondering if anyone has any knowledge of using this in boat applications, pro's/Cons. It is more expensive than regular ply, but less than marine grade.



Scott R.

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Got all the equipment together and started grinding today, man I was dressed right because not a bit of glass dust got on me, I did all grinding outside too which helped alot, you know what works good to get all that dust out of the boat when your done grinding for the day, 70MPH down the highway, no dust left after that!

Anyway, my first attempt at grinding pretty much anything, used 36 grit 4.5" disk from 3M, worked good, still learning-was sort of fun actually.

Now I know why you guys say to remove those channels, they are damn near impossible to grind free of debris, smack dab in the way too, they may very well be gone by the time I get done.

I figure about 4 more days of grinding, then I will grind some more ;-).
Will I ever get to fish in this boat again?

Lund

 

[Coors]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Stop complaining, at least you are not hunching down under a splashwell or a deck.

 

[oops!]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

lund......4???

the grinding does not stop till you put the boat in the water !

keep atter bud !

 

[lundnisswa]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

Will this stuff work??

Supplies;
Here is what I am getting.

Fiberglass E-Cloth, 6 ounce, 50" wide
Milled Fibers, 1/32", used to thicken and reinforce resins

1708 E-glass Biaxial 50 " wide (+/-45)-3/4 ounce chopped strand mat backing.


Total yield of 3 Gallons epoxy. Epoxy AeroMarine 300/21-
Consists of two gallons of #300 resin and one gallon of #21 Non Blushing
Cycloaliphatic Hardener- WITH METERING PUMPS

AeroMarine 2# Density Foam 2 Gallon Kit; Consists of 1 gallon of Part A and 1 gallon of Part B. Yields 8 cubic feet.

Bubble rollers 3inch and 6 inch.


Are there any other critical items a person needs,
I have all the basics
Safety equip
Drill mount mixer
Cups

Thanks
Scott

I will be Grinding all week.

 

[oops!]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

glass drinks resin......big time.....more resin......

less hardner...(i think)......erikg uses epoxy....he'll know.....but a gallon is a lot......

btw.....good job man......yer really hitting it hard...!

cheers
oops

 

[Coors]

Re: Lund Nisswa Restoration

You'll still run low on epoxy. I think the epoxy fairies suck it up when your back is turned.