Maintenance intervals

dcf1999

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Apr 2, 2011
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Is there a link or can someone tell me some basic maintenance intervals for the alpha 1 gen II outdrive? A basic chart when to inspect or replace things per year (I.e. bellows, I-joints, shift cable, etc)

I think I’m way overdue on my Bellows. I’m ordering them now but also want to complete other things as well since everything will be apart.

I usually do water pump and alignment every 3 years. My boat unfortunatly doesn’t get used but a few times a year so I feel like 3 years is an acceptable interval.

Should I change my shift cable when I do bellows? Boat is an 03.

Also I have a 4.3 with thunderbolt ignition. How often for a complete tuneup (plugs, wires, cap and rotor)?

Thanks
 

Searay205

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Where is your boat stored? Inside storage, in water, outside. If stored inside or enclosed storage and only in water when used your bellows probably good. Mine were after 30 years. Shift cables don't wear out, especially the Mercruiser ones. They fail due to water penetration. Gear lube should be changed every 100 hrs BUT you must clean the remote reservoir also, I seen many where there is just thick goo in the bottom. If you store in the water change everything, there no room for error and if a bellow does fail your boat will sink.
 

dubs283

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Iirc, alpha style drives such as yours require removing, inspecting, gear oil replacement, and maintenance every 100 hrs use. All bellows, water and gear oil passage hoses including shift cable complete require replacement every 5 yrs, ymmv
 

Rick Stephens

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I would disagree that shift cables don't wear out. They are THE wear item on an outdrive, regardless of maintenance. Replacing the lower shift cable is an essential item. The inner cable is under spring tension every time you shift out of gear on the water. This wears a slot into the outer sheath, which hangs up and causes the interrupt to engage too long, killing your motor. Replace the lower shift cable way more often than bellows. I do agree that getting water in the cable accelerates wear though.
 

dcf1999

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It’s stored indoors. When we’re at the cabin, it stays in the water for a week at a time.

Bellows are original and look perfect. I’ll still probably change them though as the are 20 years old.

What about ignition system? How often for a tune up (cap, rotor, plugs and cables)?

What about U-Joints? Just inspect as you would a truck and if good, leave along?

I’m pro preventative maintenance with all my vehicles and toys. Drive lube, oil and fuel filter gets changed every fall at winterization. I do alignment and water pump every 3 years or so.
 

Rick Stephens

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Yes

As I stated in my post, thank you for not reading complete before responding
I was responding to the post before yours. Your post wasn't there , for whatever reason, when I wrote mine. I suppose I should have quoted the previous post so as to make sure you weren't offended. You and I happen to be in total agreement.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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May 19, 2004
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Is there a link or can someone tell me some basic maintenance intervals for the alpha 1 gen II outdrive? A basic chart when to inspect or replace things per year (I.e. bellows, I-joints, shift cable, etc)
Merc workshop manuals.
I think I’m way overdue on my Bellows. I’m ordering them now but also want to complete other things as well since everything will be apart.
Merc (and I) don't recommend a change interval. I've seen bellows last more than 20 years. Mine are 16 years old and still in perfect shape. Too many people replace things 'because I can', and all that does if give them a warm fuzzy feeling, and empty pockets! Stop giving Merc money if you don't need to!
I usually do water pump and alignment every 3 years. My boat unfortunatly doesn’t get used but a few times a year so I feel like 3 years is an acceptable interval.
If it's a Gen II, then 3 years is fine. (most Gen II impellers last a lot longer than that!)
Should I change my shift cable when I do bellows? Boat is an 03.
If it NEEDS replacing, replace it. If there's no visible deterioration of or damage to the rubber, leave it alone! (Same with the uni bellows! You'll cause more problems than you'll solve by being invasive.)
Also I have a 4.3 with thunderbolt ignition. How often for a complete tuneup (plugs, wires, cap and rotor)?
I've found the 4.3 likes new plugs about every 200 hours (NGK BPR6EFS). On the first change (at 200 hours) I also replace the factory HT leads for automotive 8mm silicone leads. That should be the last time you replace leads! Cap and rotor should be good for about 500 hours.

Chris........
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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I would disagree that shift cables don't wear out. They are THE wear item on an outdrive, regardless of maintenance. Replacing the lower shift cable is an essential item. The inner cable is under spring tension every time you shift out of gear on the water. This wears a slot into the outer sheath, which hangs up and causes the interrupt to engage too long, killing your motor. Replace the lower shift cable way more often than bellows. I do agree that getting water in the cable accelerates wear though.
We're going to have to agree to disagree on this one. If the shift system is set up properly, and the interrupt switch is doing it's job when it should, lower shift cables DO NOT WEAR... I got 12 years out of the one on the old engine before I sold it, and I have 16 years on the current one. Most of the cables and shift systems I set up last for decades...

A badly set up system will definitely wear the inner sheath of the cable outer, but a badly set up system will also show itself and SHOULD be corrected fairly quickly.

I've replaced more gimbal bearings (and uni joints) due to water ingress than I have shift cables.

Chris......
 

dcf1999

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Ok thanks everyone! What should I look for when inspecting the shift cable?

To check the gimble bearing, just stick my finger up in there and check for smooth turning and any play?

Engine does runs little rough when in drive and advanced a little. Almost like it stumbles a little. Otherwise it runs smooth as glass. I’ll start with plugs there. Cap, rotor, and wires were changed a few years ago.
 

nola mike

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Ok thanks everyone! What should I look for when inspecting the shift cable?

To check the gimble bearing, just stick my finger up in there and check for smooth turning and any play?

Engine does runs little rough when in drive and advanced a little. Almost like it stumbles a little. Otherwise it runs smooth as glass. I’ll start with plugs there. Cap, rotor, and wires were changed a few years ago.
1. Just that it moves smoothly. I wouldn't replace it until I had a shifting problem or obvious water ingress.
2. Yes. Check alignment as well
3. Check your timing and set your idle mixture as well
 

dubs283

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I was responding to the post before yours. Your post wasn't there , for whatever reason, when I wrote mine. I suppose I should have quoted the previous post so as to make sure you weren't offended. You and I happen to be in total agreement.
Whoops! Apologies, Rick. Your advice on this forum is solid, and yes we do concurr regularly
 

dubs283

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We're going to have to agree to disagree on this one. If the shift system is set up properly, and the interrupt switch is doing it's job when it should, lower shift cables DO NOT WEAR... I got 12 years out of the one on the old engine before I sold it, and I have 16 years on the current one. Most of the cables and shift systems I set up last for decades...

A badly set up system will definitely wear the inner sheath of the cable outer, but a badly set up system will also show itself and SHOULD be corrected fairly quickly.

I've replaced more gimbal bearings (and uni joints) due to water ingress than I have shift cables.

Chris......
Hmmmm, can't pull the source out of my brain at the moment but I'm quite sure there is oem literature regarding replacing all transom bellows, hoses, senders and cable complete every 5 yrs.

If I remember I'll check #6 and #14 tomorrow and report back
 

Searay205

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Replace bellows every 5 years, I agree if stored in water 365 days a year. Mercruiser shift cables are teflon coated. They will last indefinitely. Aftermarket no. You change your bellows and don't get all the clamps aligned you will destroy them in short order. You buying an exhaust bellows expander or making one? Bellows on an outdrive isn't like changing a radiator hose on your car. I am 95% positive you are going to CREATE a problem that doesn't exist attempting to do all this preventative maintenance. When you split the outdrive to do the water pump don't forget the little O-ring in the passage between the two drives. No doubt most people on this thread could take an outdrive off and and back on in 30 minutes, someone doing it for the first time, find a good video, or read the service manual man times. By the way I have an old rubber impeller in a pump housing in my attic 130F today for 20 years, still no cracks on the rubber, sure it has a set since it hasn't spun in 20 years. Elastomers and designs have a come along way since the 90's. One last piece of advice whatever you do replace use Mercruiser OEM parts with respect to bellows, shift cables, water pump impellers.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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No doubt most people on this thread could take an outdrive off and and back on in 30 minutes, someone doing it for the first time, find a good video, or read the service manual many times.
30 minutes! Man, you're taking too many coffee breaks!

I've done videos on removing and replacing the drive. Link at the bottom of this post. (My videos)

Chris...
 

dcf1999

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Apr 2, 2011
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Yea I’m pretty comfortable taking the outdrive off and on. It’s pretty easy. Done in plenty of times on my boat and some others when I worked for a marina as a “starting mechanic” (was a parts guy forever then started wrenching before I moved on to what I do now). That was 15 years ago, thus me asking about the bellows. We always recommend alignments and water pumps every 3 or 5 years. I didn’t remember a bellows or shift cable recommendations though so I wanted to jog my memory on those. I have the service manual (bought it when I worked at the the marina) for the outdrive and engine.
 

dcf1999

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Apr 2, 2011
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I’ll just take the outdrive off and inspect the gimble bearing, bellows and alignment for now and maybe hold off on water pump. I have to look at my records and see when I changed it last. Probably about 5 years ago.

Oh and I always use oem parts when it comes to everything i own.

Thanks everyone for your help.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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Oh and I always use oem parts when it comes to everything i own.
'OEM' doesn't always mean 'Merc'. ;)

For example, for most engine parts OEM is GM, for drive bearings OEM is Tinken... Hope you follow...

Chris.......
 

Searay205

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Classic example I removed my outdrive, checked alignment, gimbal bearing, just snooping around. Put back together, all well, Year later I see outdrive gasket between gimbal and outdrive squirmed out. That turned into 3 attempts before I found one (after many post on this forum by a moderator I think Achris) that didn't squirm out when just tightening the first time. Even in the nuclear industry within 90 days of a "repair" 59% of the time something has to be reworked that wasn't related to the initial issue!! As you can imagine the nuclear industry is very procedurally and checks and balance oriented with QC and QA steps yet issues are created.
Good news is when working on your own stuff your not deadline oriented so you can go much slower. Truth be told I could have an outdrive off and remounted in 14 minutes. Using a weight lifting belt of course as the out drives are heavy.
1) Change gear lube and flush remote reservoir
2) change oil and filter

Most important maintenance item you can do to your boat, hands down is USE IT.
 
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