MARINE GRADE DECKING OR NOT

[Scott Danforth]

if we are going to discuss alternatives, kevlar honey-combed panels would be about 10X stronger than aluminum or wood, weight 1/3 that of aluminum honey comb.....great idea until you go to pay for it. it would be about $3k per 4x8 panel

Plastic sheeting has no structural capabilities, and as ahicks pointed out, heavy, expensive and will sag

wood is cheap, structural and for the most part the correct material for the application

 

[A.F.C. 8511]

Yeah, we are going with marine grade ply.
But now looking into requirements to get a homemade boat legal and coastguard appoved.
Any info or experience on that?

 

[bruceb58]

Yeah, we are going with marine grade ply.
But now looking into requirements to get a homemade boat legal and coastguard appoved.
Any info or experience on that?

If you are going with pontoonstuff to buy your wood, there is a coupon code you can use from http://www.pontoonforums.com/ that will give you 10% off. The code is forum10.

 

[HotTommy]

Yeah, we are going with marine grade ply.
But now looking into requirements to get a homemade boat legal and coastguard appoved.
Any info or experience on that?

There is a difference between a major renovaton and a homemade boat. I suspect the requirements for registration vary from state to state. To get the advice you seek it would be helpful if you told us what state you are in and whether you have the vessel's identification number on the part you are renovating. Also, did you buy the boat with its registration?

 

[ahicks]

Bill of sale? Even if you bought it a part at a time from 20 different sources, they're going to want something to give them an idea of what it's worth - so that you may be taxed "fairly". Are the original registration numbers showing?

 

[A.F.C. 8511]

No Title

I have bill of sale. I live in Virginia. And it is liturally just the base no deck, just the pontoons them thelves. There are no other stickers or registrations I see. I saw a hull stamp on it and thats it. Gonna be inland recreational use only

 

[HotTommy]

Look on the starboard (right) pontoon at the very back. If there is a number stamped in the toon or on a plate attached to it, that is likely the vessel id number. You would be wise to contact local officials before you sink much money into this to confirm that vessel was not reported as stolen. .... If the vessel number is ok in my state (not Virginia), there is no problem rebuilding / renovating the vessel. Of course you are assuming responsibility and liability for the seaworthiness and safety of the finished boat. .... If there is no id number and you are effectively building a boat from components, you need to find out what your state will require in the way of documentation and inspections to register the completed boat. The people who register boats in your county can likely tell you who to contact for answers.

 

[ahicks]

I like that plan. Do what it takes to register it as is ASAP. Keeps the value and the number of questions down. When you start talking about registering a like new boat with crappy paperwork, you'll likely be answering a LOT more questions....

 

[A.F.C. 8511]

Thanks guys for all the info and help.
Ill keep all posted.
Never been on a forum with this much useful info from ppl just willing and wanting to help without having to deal with unwanted biased opinions and critisisms.
Hunting, archery, weight training, all forums have issues...lol

 

[bigdee]

Deck material choices depends on several factors:
1. Budget.
2. How much time boat is exposed to the elements.
3.Availability of material.
4. Scope of project.
If I was redecking a 30K boat I would use the best decking. If I was building a boat from salvage I would be a little more prudent on how much I would invest. Chances are no matter what deck you choose the boat will probably outlive your needs. Even if it doesn't you will be replacing carpet every 5-8 years anyway so for another < $175 you can replace the decking with ACX or BCX. Getting old carpet off without damaging the wood is a pain......

 

[bruceb58]

If the boat needs 6 sheets of plywood and the delta is $50, I would definitely use the CCA plywood. Not even a question to spend the extra $300 but that is with my boat. When it comes time to replace mine, I would not be replacing with carpet anyway but that's another discussion.

 

[bigdee]

If the boat needs 6 sheets of plywood and the delta is $50, I would definitely use the CCA plywood. Not even a question to spend the extra $300 but that is with my boat. When it comes time to replace mine, I would not be replacing with carpet anyway but that's another discussion.

True in your case but $300 is a significant amount for a lot of us who are penny pinchers.

 

[A.F.C. 8511]

I want to use textured marine vinal with the teak look. Its expensive. $800-$1000 to cover boat. Im having a tough time pulling the trigger...lol
Do I have the budget for a complete "Dream" restoration? For the most part yes. 20K. But if I can save a few $k$ I certainly will.
Ive wrestled with the marine grade plywood vs other high grades. Ive wrestled with the teak vinal over a much cheaper but just as effective basic vinal too.
In the end I want to step back and look at a boat Im not just proud of, but enjoyed building. Ive NEVER even owned a boat so this is a real leap for me.
My biggest debate has been the wood....lol

 

[A.F.C. 8511]

If I bought ACX and put a sealant or a high quility waterproof barrier would that make a difference?
I know marine grade is without voids between the layers and thats the big sale. But this boat will see water 12 to 20 times a year and not be exposed to excessive weather (under a carport)

 

[bruceb58]

The general consensus I have heard is you do not want to waterproof the wood because any water that does get in(screw holes, ends, etc) will have a harder time getting out.

If you are going to put a nicer surface on than carpet, you don't want to cheap out on the wood.

 

[ahicks]

I agree. The boat manf's have some LOOONG guarantees in some cases, and you won't see any sealer used in their builds. No point trying to reinvent the wheel.

I went with the expensive vinyl, likely the same stuff you're looking at, only a different color. It's foam backed which is nice to walk on with your bare feet. It's also the only vinyl I found that comes with a decent warranty. Again, logic here was I don't want to do this again for a while.

The boat I did was a 99. The carpet was a complete disaster - but I could have gotten away with the original decking. There was only one small area that was questionable, but again, I didn't want the foundation for my expensive vinyl to cause worry a few years down the road.

Just do it. I went with new everything, including console and all the seats, and came in at a price that would leave more than enough change on your budget to buy a very nice NEW engine....

 

[fishrdan]

I know marine grade is without voids between the layers and thats the big sale.

I wouldn't bank on it, since there are many different grades of marine plywood. I bought $75/sheet "marine grade" douglas fir plywood for my Crestliner resto and hit several voids screwing the deck down, also found several cutting the plywood... Supposedly boat patched on the inner plies as seen on the exterior plies, but obviously not done well.

I used raw plywood and treated it with a borate treatment, then Jacso Termin-8 to "treat" the wood. I wouldn't recommend this at all since it was, time intensive and it would have been cheaper in the long run buying "pontoon decking"

 

[Doh]

I did my 1998 Crestliner's floor in 2002 (1 year after warranty of course) I laid 5/8" Pressure Treated Plywood. All except 2' V in the bow which I ran out of a piece big enough to cut. Instead of buying another full sheet, I used some left over 5/8" Marine Grade plywood left over from putting a floor in my Misty River.

2015, every piece of the floor and where the PT touches Aluminum, is as solid as the day I laid it in 2002. Except for the Bow piece of Marine Grade is fully rotted out again.

So I will used PT Plywood again, I will add a barrier (Butyl Tape) between the Aluminum and PT Plywood. Just as a precaution.

 

[A.F.C. 8511]

ahicks do you remember the resource for your vinal flooring?
It is a tough choice. Really a matter of "all out" vs "practicality"
I tend to always lean towards ALL OUT...LOL

 

[ahicks]

My primary focus was not having to do it again, but at the same time it needed to be functional. I'm retired and not wealthy by anyone's imagination, but was willing to do what it would take to get the job done here. My tender feet don't get along well with hot decking so I went with the lightest color available (the reason I didn't go with teak). The Grey weave has some texture to it so it handles "less than spotless" really well from a required attention standpoint.

Our total project, including the refurbed 90hp Honda and the sale of the original 50hp Johnson, new steering, throttle and shift cables, all new furniture, all plastic console, new stainless 19" ship's wheel, captain's chair, permanently installed ladder on the right rear corner (highly recommended), and of course the deck and floor covering, was less than 6k.The bonus is I enjoyed every minute while doing this. Took me about 6 weeks in the driveway, and maybe 2 more picking at it while at the dock out front during "sea trials". Now, after enjoying it this past summer, I wouldn't change a thing...

Vinyl floor source:
http://www.restorepontoon.com/pontoon/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=3044&idcategory=88