Materials List (First time resto, 92 GW Invader Deck Boat) [Splashed Aug 2019]

[JASinIL2006]

Sorry about your discovery... the Arauco plywood is good stuff. I used it and was really pleased.

 

[hangdogger512]

Bringing these questions back to life, since they're stuck on P1.

- I am planning to buy all my fiber and resin this week, and will order most of it from US Composites. But, shipping 20gal+ of 435 Poly is gonna be expensive ($200+ if I go freight). I haven't been able to find a local supply. Where do y'all find your resin?

- I plan on painting the cap while I have it off the hull and will use WOG's oil-based acrylic mixture. My wonder is about painting the hull... once I have the glassing/deck done, will the hull hold its shape without the cradle? I would love to pull the hull out of the carport and paint the whole interior/exterior before putting the cap back on... if that's possible? But if its gonna be a disaster, then I'll just mask it off once the cap is back on.

- For the stringers, it seems as if the right method is to set the stringers up 1/8-1/4" from the hull before bedding them in with PB. I assume this is to give the hull some flexibility? What material do y'all use for that? I was thinking some thin rubber strips...?

 

[kcon]

For retaining the shape of the hull, you absolutely want to take as many measurements as possible and keep it in the support cradle whilst you are removing the deck/stringers and grinding and installing/glassing the new stringers and deck and whatnot, once the deck is in and fully glassed I wouldn't worry about cradling it anymore, the stringers and deck is gonna be what holds the shape/structure - the top cap has very little to do with that. You'll probably have an easier painting experience with the hull if you could manage to flip it over once the deck is done.

For my stringers, and I'm positive I could have done it better but it worked great for me, at the cost of using more epoxy PB to get the job done - what I did for mine (pictured below) was sort of hang my stringers level from where the deck was to be set, just a quarter inch (give or take) above the hull - then fill the gap with my various PB mixtures, I also used paint mixing sticks to support parts of the stringer/bulkhead frame whilst I was filling some of the gap with PB. You can sort of see it in the below picture, it did good enough to create the gap I need for sure.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I couldn’t find cheaper resin than US Composite, even with shipping charges.

 

[hangdogger512]

I couldn’t find cheaper resin than US Composite, even with shipping charges.

Thanks JASinIL2006 I am ordering today. Did you order your rollers from them also? Those Glasskoter rollers are expensive! ... and thinking a standard short nap nylon roller should work fine, right?

 

[JASinIL2006]

Thanks JASinIL2006 I am ordering today. Did you order your rollers from them also? Those Glasskoter rollers are expensive! ... and thinking a standard short nap nylon roller should work fine, right?

I ordered one of those stainless steel grooved rollers from them, but for resin application I just bought a mini roller and a whole bunch of short nap rollers and some disposable roller trays from Walmart or Lowes or wherever was handy. Those mini rollers worked great.

 

[hangdogger512]

Alright deck is completely cut out now, made a map of the stringers, and am gonna start cutting/grinding those shortly.

Odd though, the main two outside stringers appear to be originally 2x4's? Is that common? Should I replace them with another 2x4, or just glue two strips of Arauco together?

 

[kcon]

Looks like you're on a roll!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRQPRZK - if you don't already have any of these on an angle grinder, this will be your best friend. My inner hull fiberlgass quality looked near identical to yours, and I didn't learn of these magical grinder discs until well after I had grinded it all smooth and clean.

 

[hangdogger512]

Thanks kcon . Yeah, I've got a lot of flap discs and rubber backed grinding pads ready to go!

So did you grind your entire hull? How deep? Is the goal to get the old stringer tabning completely gone?

 

[kcon]

Here's my (ongoing) thread for reference, seems similar enough to your boat! https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...316790-1980-s-hydro-glass-restoration-project


So I was able to remove my stringers and the tabbing remained, so I got a prybar under it and literally peeled up a bunch of layers of crappy glass, looked a lot like what you got so considering doing that, if the layers tabbing the stringers to the hull and spanning across have bad adhesion it won't do much good to glass over them, so start ripping up tabbing and see how much comes off with ease. I grinded down large areas until it looked like fresh new glass, no more dirty nasty brown. I'd hit that with lot of warm soapy water or a pressure washer first to get rid of grit and see exactly what kind of glass you're working with. I'm thinking you're probably going to need to be tearing up at least the first layer of whatever glass was laid down there.

I was concerned with how much glass I had peeled off and grinded down so I laid the entire inside of my hull below the deck with 17oz bi-axial and a ton of epoxy.

 

[hangdogger512]

Yay, all the stringers and the transom are out! Anyone have thoughts on that 2x4 stringer? Obviously I wouldn't want to use a treated board, but is there any reason not to use a standard pine 2x4?

And the old tabbing looks good and well adhered (for the most part). Do I still need to grind them away entirely, or just scuff them and then tab over? I'll be grinding away the stringer ridges this week and just trying to determine how far to take it down...

 

[kcon]

Looks like you're coming along well! For the 2x4 personally I'd replace with bonded marine grade plywood but I can't speak to the use of something like untreated pine 2x4 as I'm unsure, honestly if it's prepped, coated and laminated I can't imagine it'd be an issue.

What I would do there (personally, I'd make an exact cardboard template of that layout with an exacto knife, tape and wood glue) after grinding down that stuff I'd graze over the entire hull with a grinder and make an even, level surface of fresh exposed clean laminate. I don't think you NEED to rip up all old tabbing or surface if it's adhered well but clean everything up and feather out the edges of where you did tear stuff up. If it's got a good bond already all you really need to do is prep it for more layers.

 

[Woodonglass]

I agree with kcon, laminated plywood is the way to go. Stronger and more dependable than dimensional lumber.

 

[hangdogger512]

Awesome, bonded plywood it is. Thanks kcon and Woodonglass

 

[kcassells]

Concur with all of the boat recommendations above. Nice project you have there. Coming aboard.

 

[hangdogger512]

What I would do there (personally, I'd make an exact cardboard template of that layout with an exacto knife, tape and wood glue) after grinding down that stuff I'd graze over the entire hull with a grinder and make an even, level surface of fresh exposed clean laminate.

So, kcon , are you saying you make template stringers out of cardboard first? Or a template that you can set the stringers into (like a photo negative, if that makes sense?)

 

[kcon]

So, kcon , are you saying you make template stringers out of cardboard first? Or a template that you can set the stringers into (like a photo negative, if that makes sense?)

I'd make cardboard stringers and bulkheads out of cardboard one for one, use a pencil compass to get the exact fit, then use some string and a string level to get the exact height right as well, tape or glue it up, and you have an exact copy of all your parts to use as a trace template to cut. I WISH I did it like that when I started my stringers lol (best way to learn something is to do it the hard way first!), just a suggestion but I believe it will make the process so much easier on you.

 

[hangdogger512]

I'd make cardboard stringers and bulkheads out of cardboard one for one, use a pencil compass to get the exact fit, then use some string and a string level to get the exact height right as well, tape or glue it up, and you have an exact copy of all your parts to use as a trace template to cut. I WISH I did it like that when I started my stringers lol (best way to learn something is to do it the hard way first!), just a suggestion but I believe it will make the process so much easier on you.

This makes perfect sense! Thanks for the tip.

 

[Woodonglass]

It's fairly easy to make your templates using 2" wide strips of cardboard taped together. Doing it this way you can utilize smaller strips of cardboard and easier to get them to conform to the bottom outline of the hull This link will provide some good info Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

 

[hangdogger512]

Ah boy... order of glass, resin, and supplies has shipped.

Here is the list for any interested. I will update as I work if anything on my list was overkill, or underestimated.