MCM 5.0 EFI possible fuel issue?

Kuneha

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Hello.

I have a Regal Cruiser with the MCM 5.0 EFI V8 Engine.

There appears to be a fuel issue and I would like your thoughts and opinions.

Main symptoms: Boat accelerates to 30mph, then 25, then 20 until eventually it won't go over 10mph.

The work done on the engine so far is: service (including distributor cap and rotor arm), new fuel pump, new MAP sensor, new batteries and few other things.

First, when the fuel pump was changed (cool fuel) they didn't put the vacuum line back on the fuel pressure regulator. I did some reading on this and it appears that this line simply connects to the flame arrestor so I am not sure if this operates via vacuum to operate or just for safety in case the regulator fails. I cannot put the vacuum line back as I don't have the means to lift the engine slightly to access the cool fuel box when the regulator is located. The line just connects to the flame arrestor and is disconnected and dangling on the other end.

I did some basic diagnosing and this is what I have found; when I rev the engine from idle to say.. 2000RPM or so with a quick throttle stab, the injectors dumps so much fuel to the point where the engine nearly dies, it seems to be flooding it. I can physically see it turn from a fine mist to a waterfall almost. It does look like a clean injection however, the injectors seem to have a healthy spray pattern and doesn't appear to drip. The engine doesn't always die, it slightly coughs but eventually regains itself.

Another issue is when I put rev the engine to a fixed RPM the engine creeps up in RPM. To make it clear, if I rev to 1500RPM and leave the throttle there, the engine will go to 1500RPM, 2 seconds later it will rise to 1700RPM and then usually another jump to 1900RPM. During this, I can see the injector spray change every time the RPM creeps up. It becomes a spitty/pulsing type injection that becomes more finer and less spitty/pulsing and more consistent as the RPM creeps up incrementally. I notice this when driving the boat as well.

I want to do a fuel pressure test but apparently I need a special T piece to connect a gauge to but where I am in the UK, sourcing these parts are terribly difficult. I'm lucky enough to be able to just get the service parts let alone special diagnostic tools and fittings.

Any thoughts?
 

Bondo

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Main symptoms: Boat accelerates to 30mph, then 25, then 20 until eventually it won't go over 10mph.

The work done on the engine so far is:

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,.... I don't see the fuel filter mentioned,.....

Go pull it, 'n dump it into a clear contain to see if there's anything but clean fresh gasoline in it,....
Then throw on a new 1,....
 

Kuneha

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Apologies, the fuel filter was changed.

Do you think the issue could be cause by the vacuum line from the flame arrestor not being attached to the fuel pressure regulator?

I would attach it but the cool fuel system where the regulator is located is underneath the engine with no clear access without removing the engine mount and slightly lifting the engine. Is this something I can do with a small car jack just to tilt the engine a few inches?
 

alldodge

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First starting another thread with the same problem only causes issues.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...10463637-5-0-mercruiser-loses-power-gradually

We need to know what the fuel pressure is, and if it is falling off.

I want to do a fuel pressure test but apparently I need a special T piece to connect a gauge to but where I am in the UK, sourcing these parts are terribly difficult.

The T fitting posted in previous thread could be made from the local auto parts store and/or hardware store. Pick up two pieces of 3/8 break line, and a brass T break line fitting, and Shrader valve. Then find fittings to go from 3/8 inverted flare to the Shrader valve. Now remove your fuel line from the pump to the throttle body and install the T assembly you made.

Hey QBhoy have any idea where a UK guy could find Merc part 91-806901 ?
 

Bondo

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by the vacuum line from the flame arrestor
I would attach it but the cool fuel system where the regulator is located is underneath the engine with no clear access without removing the engine mount and slightly lifting the engine. Is this something I can do with a small car jack just to tilt the engine a few inches?

Nope,.... Absolutely Not,.... The drive has to be pulled, before the motor is lifted, or ya bend things,....

Pull the exhaust manifold off to reach the regulator,....

If the hose isn't manifold vacuum, it's just a leak tattle-tail tube,... no regulation from it,...
I haven't dealt with such, so don't know for sure,...
 

QBhoy

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First starting another thread with the same problem only causes issues.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...10463637-5-0-mercruiser-loses-power-gradually

We need to know what the fuel pressure is, and if it is falling off.



The T fitting posted in previous thread could be made from the local auto parts store and/or hardware store. Pick up two pieces of 3/8 break line, and a brass T break line fitting, and Shrader valve. Then find fittings to go from 3/8 inverted flare to the Shrader valve. Now remove your fuel line from the pump to the throttle body and install the T assembly you made.

Hey QBhoy have any idea where a UK guy could find Merc part 91-806901 ?

Hi AD and OP...just seen this now. Where are you posting from ? What is the part (without looking it up...my bad).
Loads of Mercury dealers all round the country.
Key Parts, pacer marine and splash marine are the go to guys for most parts and accessories.
 

QBhoy

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Have we thought about the well known throttle position sensor and IAC valve ? Or are these just MPI well known faults ? The symptoms are similar to both, but more so the throttle position sensor.
Do you have a bleed valve on the fuel system ? Or perhaps that's just the mpi too.
Symptoms also familiar with a clogged fuel pick up from the tank itself. There is a strainer on this usually that get clogged...more so the higher the demand on fuel from the engine.
Just a few thoughts.
 

alldodge

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The OP was needing the TBI fuel pressure adapter but said it was hard to find
 

Kuneha

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I managed to get a fuel pressure reading and various RPM (not under load) and it appears to be at 30?2 PSI or so and it holds steady so this seems find to me.

IMG_20170818_155615.jpg


I had a small look at the fuel pressure regulator and it does look a bit old. Perhaps the original? - I managed to get the pipe on to it but it appears to have made 0 difference to how the engine runs. Thoughts?

IMG_20170818_155604.jpg


How do I go about access the cool fuel behind the engine mount?
 

alldodge

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To get at the cool fuel there are 2 nuts holding the bracket which holds the box on the motor mount. Would have to remove the hoses and lines. Doesn't look like there is much room so for now just leave it be. With 30 psi the pressure is good but need to see if the pressure falls under load
 

Kuneha

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Thanks for the reply buddy. I will have the boat out tomorrow and report my findings.
 

Kuneha

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Fuel pressure was a solid 30 psi when under load so that seems alright. Engine wouldn't go over 2800RPM with WOT regardless of fuel pressure. The fuel spray pattern on the right injector didn't look as fine as the left but seemed healthy enough. I give up.

Access to anything on this boat is awful. I'm good with a set of spanners and quite mechanically inclined but this is beyond me. I genuinely give up. My boat can sit there and rot.
 

alldodge

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The fuel, air and spark are good but still will not accelerate to full power. You need to scan the motor for codes but one thing that would cause this is the knock sensor. Its mounted to the starboard side of the block and has one Dark Blues wire on it. If it is the knock sensor, you can remove the plug connector and the motor will increase to full power. Now if the knock module is causing the issue and not the sensor then this will not change anything.

You can make a simple code reader with a 12V resistor LED and a paper clip. When attached it, turn key ON (no start) and it starts flashing, just need to count the flashes.
DLC with LED code reader.jpg
 
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