MCM 5.7 Alpha 1995 Did I adjust the gear shift cables properly?

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
That's the problem for reverse. Crud in the back of the bell housing will also mean crud inside the slide, and probably at the back of the slide cavity in the drive.

The bell housing and the drive cavity are (relatively) easy to clean. You'll likely have crud inside the slide, and you can not clean that without taking the core out, and taking the slide off the cable and cleaning all the way inside.

Referencing the diagram below...

Remove the locking wire from the end of the slide(17) and unwind the set-screw(11). At the shift plate end of the lower shift cable, remove it from the plate. Loosen (a turn each) the screws (14) locking the plastic guide (12) to the inner cable and remove the guide. From the outside of the boat, pull the slide out (it will bring the inner cable with it). Once it's all out, slide the slide off the cable and clean the inside of the slide.Inspect the end of the outer cable still in the bell housing and make sure everything is clean enough to eat off.

Once everything is clean to my standards :D, slide the slide back onto the inner cable and LOOSELY screw the set screw back in. Then give the inner cable a very light spray with silicone lubricant (yes, plenty here that will disagree with that, but hey, I've only been doing this for 25 years :facepalm: so what would I know...), and slide it back into the outer cable. Push it all the way in and then replace the plastic guide, making sure the core is visible through the sight hole at the anchor (13). You should see the core pass though that anchor. Now tighten the set screws (14) evenly. Not too tight, but tight enough for the cable not to slip. Back down at the bell housing, tighten the slide set screw until it JUST touches the end of the cable core, then back it off so you can get a new piece of lock wire through. The slide should be free to rotate on the core with a minimum of movement back and forth. Lock the set screw with the lock wire (any small diameter SS lock wire will do)...

Check the cable slides freely. Load the drive back on and go through the set up procedure, and don't forget to check the cable slop....

Chris........

shift cable.JPG
 

Skidude17

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 10, 2014
Messages
225
That's the problem for reverse. Crud in the back of the bell housing will also mean crud inside the slide, and probably at the back of the slide cavity in the drive.

The bell housing and the drive cavity are (relatively) easy to clean. You'll likely have crud inside the slide, and you can not clean that without taking the core out, and taking the slide off the cable and cleaning all the way inside.

Referencing the diagram below...

Remove the locking wire from the end of the slide(17) and unwind the set-screw(11). At the shift plate end of the lower shift cable, remove it from the plate. Loosen (a turn each) the screws (14) locking the plastic guide (12) to the inner cable and remove the guide. From the outside of the boat, pull the slide out (it will bring the inner cable with it). Once it's all out, slide the slide off the cable and clean the inside of the slide.Inspect the end of the outer cable still in the bell housing and make sure everything is clean enough to eat off.

Once everything is clean to my standards :D,

Check the cable slides freely. Load the drive back on and go through the set up procedure, and don't forget to check the cable slop....

Chris........


Thanks for walking me through all this Chris. I already put the drive back on after cleaning the crud out of the slide cavity before I read this post, and went through the setup procedure. It is amazing how much closer I am to tolerance now. I thought I was going to be hooking the drive up to muffs and testing it in the morning, but I gotta get this thing clean to your standards :D It’s getting late here in the PNW, though, so it will have to wait for morning.

One thing I saw in the manual that I didn’t see you mention was loosening the clamp on the shift cable bellows. Is that a step I can skip?

Thanks again!
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
...One thing I saw in the manual that I didn’t see you mention was loosening the clamp on the shift cable bellows. Is that a step I can skip?...

Since you aren't removing the outer cable casing/sleeve/sheath than there's no need to touch the bellows clamp.

I also like to slap some grease on the slide and in the cavity in the drive. Forgot to mention that in the initial job description... It's something I do without even thinking about, sorry.

Chris....
 

Skidude17

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 10, 2014
Messages
225
Since you aren't removing the outer cable casing/sleeve/sheath than there's no need to touch the bellows clamp.

I also like to slap some grease on the slide and in the cavity in the drive. Forgot to mention that in the initial job description... It's something I do without even thinking about, sorry.

Chris....

Will do. Does the grease in the cavity make the gunk easier to clean out, block the hunk from getting in the shift cable, ...?

I can’t wait to have a smooth running machine!
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Allows the slide to move in the cavity with less friction and wear...
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
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Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,345
I dont have a cutaway pic of this but to describe it I`ll try. When water/moisture enters the shift cavity it creates a grey mud like substance.Over time this mug goes into the rear of the slide. Every time you go to reverse you pack some of it in the slide. Eventually there is so much packed in there it prevents reverse from working properly.
You cant see this untill you remove the core from the slide and take a drill (1/4 inch I think) and hand clean the mud out to allow full travel . The white plastic guide you see at the end hits this blockage and prevents the slide from bottoming out.
 

Skidude17

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Messages
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I’m within about 3.5” of the cable being visible on the engine side, and it feels like it’s gettin hung up on something. I have some carb cleaning wire I stuck down there to see how far away I am, and like I said within about 3.5”. I backed the cable off about 1/2”, and spun a pipe cleaner as well as the carb wire to see if I could feel what was hanging it up. I still can’t get it to budge. Any suggestions?
 
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Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
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Aug 29, 2004
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Have no idea what your saying. with the lower cable disconected can you manually pull it into full reverse.?
Can you manually push it in to get full fwd?
 
Last edited:

Skidude17

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 10, 2014
Messages
225
Have no idea what your saying. with the lower cable disconected can you manually pull it into full reverse.?
Can you manually push it in to get full fwd?

Sorry...I’m reinstalling the shift cable core, and it’s getting hung up on something within 4” of being visible.
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,345
the core must pass thru with no resistance or he cable will bind during shifting
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Sorry...I’m reinstalling the shift cable core, and it’s getting hung up on something within 4” of being visible.

Sometimes happens. It's getting caught on the end tube (the bit with the '10' pointed at it). Loosen the jam nut (the one I've labeled with '1.1') and unscrew the end tube. Push the core the rest of the way, then slide the end tube back on, screw it in and retighten the jam nut.

Chris........

jammed.JPG
 
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