Been burying myself in the boat lately, trying to chase a problem that i keep running into. My boat had a merc 485, the motor ended up toast (cracked cyl and whatnot) so i managed to locate a 470 to swap in. The swap went beautiful, and she ran great on the water for night fishing the first night. Took her back out, and throttled up, she hit about 2800 RPM, started to come up, and it popped, like a muted backfire (though i've only been familiar with cars backfiring, so i can imagine that it was due to being in water) Since then, it's been all hell trying to troubleshoot why she won't start. Occasionally, i can go out, hit it, and she'll fire up for a bit. But it gets better
I still had the coil and points setup from the other boat, took the dist cap off, and found a corroded condenser, and a set of points that looked like more of a cup and nipple, rather than nice flat surfaces... went to the merc dealer and parted with the 8 bucks for a new set, and a new condenser, installed them, and set them. Turned the engine crank over till right before #1TDC and the cam for the points was at the peak. Used a feeler gauge, and set it at .20 to start (specs according to valve cover and manual call for between .18 and .25) Swapped what looked like an Accel automotive coil (giant yellow monstrosity) for the factory-replica newer coil from the old engine, swapped the wires for a new set of 8mm (overkill for the old ignition system, but should work) and regapped the plugs. I did notice that the old plugs were clean, smelled a little like gas (from me fighting with it to get her started before) but were dark, not shiny... went ahead and replaced them, regapped at .35 (also according to valve cover and manual spec) Replaced the small fuel filter in the carb, and the one under the bell assembly on the side of the engine, and put a new water separator filter on over by the gas tank. Pulled the big engine harness connector plug and cleaned it (learned to disconnect the battery first, steel wool can and will smolder quickly... threw that from the boat into the water where the muffs had soaked the driveway) spread the contacts just a hair with a small screwdriver, reinstalled it, and put a new hose clamp around the boot to keep crap out. This engine had a blown water cooled voltage regulator when i got it (that's why she was so cheap) so i moved over my alternator conversion kit from the old motor, (uses a Warner GM single wire type) and wired that to the battery (+) Terminal. Here's the kicker...
First time i got her to start, ran fine on the lake as above, second day out, took her for a spin, she did the backfire, and has been trouble ever since. Got towed back to dock, (nice guy with a jet ski dragged my 176 back) and got her home. Did all the cleanup, replacing stuff, and got her back together, tried to start in the driveway, and she'll spin like a top all day, but doens't want to fire... occasionally she will, if you toy with her enough, just at random when you are about to give up, you hit the key and it fired right up. The belt form the crank pulley to alt squealed something fierce, and i shut her down. The alternator pulley was too hot to even touch (now have a glassy spot on a finger) but had only ran for about 15 seconds? Alternator spins free, with belt off, tried to start, nothing, won't fire, sometimes will... i'm still trying to figure out what's going on!
On a hunch i noticed that the negative cable to engine had super hard insulation (old) so replaced with a new one, cleaned up the terminals, still nothing. I know the shift interrupt switch works, took the screws out and let it stay completely disengaged (doens't do jack on muffs anyway) that didn't seem to help at all. Traced the wiring under the helm, nothing out of the ordinary, all connections and fuses are clean, tight, and in good shape. Neutral safety switch is working fine, it won't let the starter kick unless you push the throttle only button all the way in and tilt it forward into Throttle only setting, or is in true neutral...
When it does start, she purrs, nothing abnormal at all, no RPM fluctuation, gauges all look good, gets to about 160 and levels off in temp, when you can actually get it to start.
My next thought was fuel delivery, but when you pump the throttle, it primes, and won't even stumble, acts like it's got no spark at all, or something... just spins like a top, and when the starter releases, just hear the compression release.
I'm a car guy, not a boat guy, and have had this learning curve hit me harder than a ton of bricks. I've tried tinkering with the points, to see if anything helps, from setting at .18 (minimum gap allowed) and .25 tried gapping the plugs a hair smaller (.33 instead of .35) and nothing.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what is going on?
My thoughts, the alternator getting hot is really strange, but with it not even on the boat, sitting on the table, and starting her on battery alone, it doesn't make a difference.
Rotor and cap are like new, points are new, plugs and wires are new, condenser new, tried two different coils,
on a side note, i did notice that out of the engine harness at the electric choke, there are two wires plugged in, pink, and purple (what i can make out of it) and what looks to be a ground, that hasn't been connected in years? just a solid black wire that sticks up about 2 inches about 5 inches away from it coming out of the same section
also, the oil pressure gauge does not seem to work, though it did on the other engine, just read low (due to bad motor) will that have anything to do with this intermittent start issue? Also, in cleanup i have removed the old blown up water cooled regulator, wasn't even connected to anything anyway.
Any advice on where i can go from here is MUCH appreciated!
I still had the coil and points setup from the other boat, took the dist cap off, and found a corroded condenser, and a set of points that looked like more of a cup and nipple, rather than nice flat surfaces... went to the merc dealer and parted with the 8 bucks for a new set, and a new condenser, installed them, and set them. Turned the engine crank over till right before #1TDC and the cam for the points was at the peak. Used a feeler gauge, and set it at .20 to start (specs according to valve cover and manual call for between .18 and .25) Swapped what looked like an Accel automotive coil (giant yellow monstrosity) for the factory-replica newer coil from the old engine, swapped the wires for a new set of 8mm (overkill for the old ignition system, but should work) and regapped the plugs. I did notice that the old plugs were clean, smelled a little like gas (from me fighting with it to get her started before) but were dark, not shiny... went ahead and replaced them, regapped at .35 (also according to valve cover and manual spec) Replaced the small fuel filter in the carb, and the one under the bell assembly on the side of the engine, and put a new water separator filter on over by the gas tank. Pulled the big engine harness connector plug and cleaned it (learned to disconnect the battery first, steel wool can and will smolder quickly... threw that from the boat into the water where the muffs had soaked the driveway) spread the contacts just a hair with a small screwdriver, reinstalled it, and put a new hose clamp around the boot to keep crap out. This engine had a blown water cooled voltage regulator when i got it (that's why she was so cheap) so i moved over my alternator conversion kit from the old motor, (uses a Warner GM single wire type) and wired that to the battery (+) Terminal. Here's the kicker...
First time i got her to start, ran fine on the lake as above, second day out, took her for a spin, she did the backfire, and has been trouble ever since. Got towed back to dock, (nice guy with a jet ski dragged my 176 back) and got her home. Did all the cleanup, replacing stuff, and got her back together, tried to start in the driveway, and she'll spin like a top all day, but doens't want to fire... occasionally she will, if you toy with her enough, just at random when you are about to give up, you hit the key and it fired right up. The belt form the crank pulley to alt squealed something fierce, and i shut her down. The alternator pulley was too hot to even touch (now have a glassy spot on a finger) but had only ran for about 15 seconds? Alternator spins free, with belt off, tried to start, nothing, won't fire, sometimes will... i'm still trying to figure out what's going on!
On a hunch i noticed that the negative cable to engine had super hard insulation (old) so replaced with a new one, cleaned up the terminals, still nothing. I know the shift interrupt switch works, took the screws out and let it stay completely disengaged (doens't do jack on muffs anyway) that didn't seem to help at all. Traced the wiring under the helm, nothing out of the ordinary, all connections and fuses are clean, tight, and in good shape. Neutral safety switch is working fine, it won't let the starter kick unless you push the throttle only button all the way in and tilt it forward into Throttle only setting, or is in true neutral...
When it does start, she purrs, nothing abnormal at all, no RPM fluctuation, gauges all look good, gets to about 160 and levels off in temp, when you can actually get it to start.
My next thought was fuel delivery, but when you pump the throttle, it primes, and won't even stumble, acts like it's got no spark at all, or something... just spins like a top, and when the starter releases, just hear the compression release.
I'm a car guy, not a boat guy, and have had this learning curve hit me harder than a ton of bricks. I've tried tinkering with the points, to see if anything helps, from setting at .18 (minimum gap allowed) and .25 tried gapping the plugs a hair smaller (.33 instead of .35) and nothing.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what is going on?
My thoughts, the alternator getting hot is really strange, but with it not even on the boat, sitting on the table, and starting her on battery alone, it doesn't make a difference.
Rotor and cap are like new, points are new, plugs and wires are new, condenser new, tried two different coils,
on a side note, i did notice that out of the engine harness at the electric choke, there are two wires plugged in, pink, and purple (what i can make out of it) and what looks to be a ground, that hasn't been connected in years? just a solid black wire that sticks up about 2 inches about 5 inches away from it coming out of the same section
also, the oil pressure gauge does not seem to work, though it did on the other engine, just read low (due to bad motor) will that have anything to do with this intermittent start issue? Also, in cleanup i have removed the old blown up water cooled regulator, wasn't even connected to anything anyway.
Any advice on where i can go from here is MUCH appreciated!