Merc / Quicksilver Top Mount Binnacle Control breakdown needed

[wharfcreek]

I have a 2000 Key West 1520 with a 60 HP Merc 4-stroke (recently replaced from a 50 Merc 2-stroke). It still has the original controls on the center console. I believe the shift cable is starting to crap out, as the force of having to shift is ripping the control right off the console. In attempting some temporary repairs, I'm about to replace the rubber expansion nuts used with some conventional nut/bolt combinations and a good flat washer underneath. Will be using some anti-seize compound as well. But, I had also thought I might attempt to remove and lubricate the cables to see if this helps. Unfortunately, I can't find any good info on my control. I can find all kinds of info on the 'side-mount' outboard controls, but nothing on my top mount set-up. Mine has the chrome plated plastic cover, the black button in the center of the throttle/shift lever that locks out the shift, and a rocker-switch on the side of the throttle handle for tilt/trim. Hopefully someone can come up with something that will give me a clue as to where to start. I have the whole assembly pulled up from the console, but cables and wires still attached. Any help would be appreciated. Many thanks!! Tom D.

 

[GA_Boater]

Before ripping into the remote, how hard is it to operate if the shift cable is disconnected at the motor? Most likely the shift cable is old and dying, but eliminate it if you can.

Is there a model number or part number on the remote to narrow down which remote you have. Looking here shows why an ID is needed - There are dozens. https://tinyurl.com/y9fp8zog

 

[wharfcreek]

To some degree, my plan was to detach the two cables back at the motor and see if the cables did, in fact, work freely or not. I'm somewhat concerned that it may be the engine shift-shaft that is binding up vs the cable. Unfortunately, the boat is on a lift right now, and getting to the engine end of the cables is not so easy. I see the two ends, (one for throttle and one for shifting) and the top one appears to be throttle. That one has a small snap-type retainer on it, and I can at least detach it from the mechanism and see if it works freely. But the other, which I believe is the shift cable, that's somewhat buried beneath the lower engine housing......and 'access' may require removing that cover. Can't rightly tell at this point. But, it appears to be too well buried for me to just snap it loose as well. I may have to pull the boat and trailer this project. I did just get the whole shift mechanism re-affixed to the console......so hopefully not having the thing flopping loose will at least improve things a bit. As to 'model'..... I just went through that list you provided and mine looks the closest to the one designated as 88688A14, A25, A26, A27 only mine is set up to have the handle one the 'port' side, and mine appears to have the optional 'T' handle and switch vs what is shown with the 'cone' handle. I will end by saying that the throttle side appears to work smoothly with no binding. It's only the 'shifting' part of this that is causing issues. I'm spraying the thing down with nearly a whole bottle of spray oil....and maybe something will free up from that. If not, it looks like I'm going to have to remove the shift cable at the engine side and confirm it's sticking....and if so, replace it. I just need to know how!

Tom

 

[tacx]

You probably have whats called a "Commandor console mount control" .
is this the one you have?
https://www.*****************/parts/m...e-88688a25-a27

Tom
sorry, link isent working. But the part number is correct

 

[wharfcreek]

I couldn't get the link to respond either, but I did a 'cut & paste' with it and it brought up a google page......and when I opened the first item on the list (same part number) I'd say that was it. I just have mine oriented such that the mount is more to the right side of the console and the handle comes off the left side of the mount. I believe this is a factory option and subject to simply installing the label on the cover such that the 'F', 'N', and 'R' are properly located. Anyway, I have that 'T' handle on mine as well.

I just took the boat for a ride again, and the throttle portion of the unit is working fine.....very smooth, and if I 'disable' the shift link by pushing the big black button in, the overall mechanism seems fine. With all the spray lube I've hit it with, I think I may have improved things somewhat as well although it's hard to tell since now the unit is mounted firmly to the console. Once 'in gear', it's pretty stiff getting back to 'neutral'....regardless of going forward or reverse. And, once in gear, the throttle works fine. So, pretty sure it's either the shift cable, or the linkage within the outboard itself. I've sprayed all that linkage pretty well, including down where the shaft goes down into the housing and on to the lower unit. If it's binding there, I guess I'll have no choice but what to do some more complex procedures. But, if it's 'just' the cable, I still need to know how to remove it from the shift control mechanism itself, as well as from the outboard side. I believe there are numbers on the outer cable housing for getting a proper new one. I've watched some 'you-tube' procedures for pumping oil down into an older cable using a piece of rubber hose, some hose clamps, and air fitting, and some compressed air. For $30 or $40, I'll replace the cable!!

Anyway....again, if you have a diagram or procedure for removing the cable from this unit, that would be really helpful.

Many thanks,

Tom D.

 

[ajgraz]

Is this what you have?:

http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercruiser/manuals/remote.html#/142

 

[wharfcreek]

ajgraz, the link you supplied opened up to a manual.....where I found my control in section 4-D. In reading the first few pages I think I see what is necessary to remove the cables from the control. As it is, I don't want to completely disassemble the control unit.....just pull the cables. I also have to figure out how to pull them off the motor (a 60 HP EFI 4-stroke).

I pulled the boat out of the water and it's now on the trailer in my neighbor's drive-way. Tomorrow am I'll begin the process of removing the control mount again, but not until I figure out how to remove the throttle and shift cable at the motor first. I suspect when I do, I'll find that the 'stiffness' will remain indicating a bad shift cable.......at least I hope so. Assuming it is, then I'll just replace it. If not, and if everything moves easily with the cables disconnected, the I guess the problem will be in the motor itself. I may just seek professional help at that point. But, either way, I'll report back tomorrow.

Let me conclude this evening for thanking you all for the help!! I really appreciate it!!

Tom D.

 

[ajgraz]

Check to make sure that the control cable grommets (Part 27 in the diagram on page 4D-6 of the manual) are installed. These locate the control box ends of the cables to properly "line them up" with the cam arms inside the control unit. They are simply a couple of small black plastic (nylon?) cylindrical spacers.

Among the many, many mistakes / errors / oversights / cheap-outs made by the so-called "professionals" at the Mercury dealership where the re-power motor and controls were rigged on my boat (was my Mom's boat before I inherited it) was that they did not install these, and that was causing all kinds of binding and stiffness issues until I found and corrected it.

I also have some choice words about the tilt/trim switch on this control, which I have subsequently eliminated and replaced with some actual marine-grade parts...but that's a whole 'nother story!:
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...-switch-please

EDIT: after leafing thru the manual again, I'm not sure there's anywhere in there where they mention to install these grommets!

 

[wharfcreek]

OK, 'update' time: I spent some time on the project today, including doing a lower unit and engine oil change. I finally got up the courage to have at the cable removal at the engine side......and it turned out to be 'not all that bad'. I facilitated the project by removing the lower cowl, which turned out to be a good move as it revealed a failed motor mount. There is a 'block' assembly at the lower end of the drive portion concealed under the cowling. This block consists of actually two supports....and one of mine has failed. So, this will need to be replaced, and a good 'catch' as part of this project.

As to the cables, they're fine! When removed from the engine, they both move freely..... which was almost a disappointment, as I was rather hoping that a 'cable replacement' would solve this problem. However, after some further evaluation, it seems the problem is more 'internal' to the engine and lower unit. I checked all the linkages above in the engine area, and all those move freely. There is a rod that connects to a lever which takes the back and forth motion of the shift cable and 'converts' it to a rotating motion going to the shift-shaft. All this is 'free' and working properly, or so it seems. However, there appears to be some kind of spring-loaded 'detent' mechanism beneath what I can see from above. I don't know if it's beneath the engine or within the lower unit itself. Either way, it appears this is the culprit. I can move the shift shaft and lever assembly and feel the resistance of this thing 'clunking' into it's 3 positions (fwd, N, and rev). I'd note that I did this AFTER having refilled the lower unit with new Hi-Perf 90 weight Merc gear lube. I also used the Merc 4-cycle 25W-50 motor oil....which in my 90 to 100 degree daily air temps should be OK. It's what my local Merc dealer recommended. Anyway.....at the time I bought the oil from him I'd not yet 'discovered' this issue, so I didn't review it with him. However, as I've got to go get the motor mount, I guess I'll see what he's got to say about this shift problem as well. But.....if anyone know anything about this....PLEASE let me know.

I might as well end by asking one other question as well. As this motor is still rather new to me, I might ask about the process of the 'water' indicator? There doesn't appear to be any kind of 'tell-tale' little stream, commonly referred to as the 'pee hole' coming out the back of the engine. I only have what looks to be some kind of quick-disconnect for flushing water 'in' to the motor....but it seems to double as an output for cooling water as well. Is this 'normal'.....or am I missing something? And, how much water should pour out of this thing? It seems I get very little 'flow'.....more like a dribble when the engine is running. I don't seem to have any kind of 'overheat' problem....but I'm trying to figure out if maybe I should also be putting in a new water pump impeller as long as I've gone this far? Maybe I'll just do it and be done with it!!

Anyway...that's it....and thanks again to all for the responses.

Tom D.

 

[ajgraz]

Hmm, you never said what year your 60hp is, might be useful info now that you’re getting into issues at the motor end. Given that this issue is really no longer about the control, maybe time to start a newly titled thread?

As for the pee stream... a new impeller is cheap insurance.

 

[wharfcreek]

Roger that on a new thread. Engine is an '03 according to the label on the back of the transom mount.

I did some further 'googling' earlier this morning during an insomnia attack and found that there are a LOT of different internet entries regarding this 'hard shifting' on this particular engine. Something called 'Desmodromic design' has been applied and apparently created some issues? In any event, I have a feeling that this is going to fall into the 'can't be fixed' category. Further, the 'motor mount' I see that has failed appears that it may be part of the whole engine pivot assembly tube. This may require purchase of a part with a cost upward of $300 (according to some internet shopping I did) as well as removal of the whole power head in order to replace it. Installing a new impeller pales by comparison. I think I may be towing the boat to the shop Monday morning!! Ugh!!

TSD

 

[ajgraz]

With this new info, I too did a little learnin’ on the web...

From what I can tell, about 2006 is when Merc switched to this “desmodromic” shifting on the 40/50/60 4-stroke. Desmodromic meaning it has actuators in both directions, rather than an actuator in one direction and a spring in the other. Apparently this desmodromic design was used by Merc in larger motors since the 80’s, and was applied to the smaller motors (like 60 4str) specifically to fix known “hard shifting”...too late for you, it seems.

So I guess the thing to do is try to see if anyone knows of a fix for this apparently well-known problem.

(or sell that sucker and get a newer motor? Sounds like it’s got other issues, too)