Mercruiser 3.0 Coil Too Hot Engine cuts out after 30minutes

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lognum

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Have a Mercruiser 3.0 that quits after 30 the minutes. Engine runs great otherwise. Coil is very hot to the touch. Issue started after changing to electronic ignition. Can a faulty electronic ignition cause this (hot coil)? Read all past articles in the forums, but no one has advised a fix for anyone. Checked all volts going in and out of connections. All are good. Need help!!
 

nola mike

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Are you running a straight 12v to the coil, or do you have a resistance wire?
 

Bt Doctur

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sounds like you replace the points with the electronic version but never replaced the coil ,but did power the coil with a full 12v feed
 

lognum

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Thanks. How many volts should be going into the + side of the coil on start up and how much when running? We tried different coils with the same result. Is the coil supposed to be matched to the electronic distributor? Where should the resistor wire be, in line with the harness? Cheers.
 

lognum

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Sorry, one more thing. This all seems to have started after it was recommended to change from points to electronic distributor. Can this affect the coil in any way?
 

Bondo

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This all seems to have started after it was recommended to change from points to electronic distributor. Can this affect the coil in any way?

Ayuh,..... The coil has to match the ignition used,......

Points coils, generally use a resistor to save the points,....

Electronic ignition, dependin' on who's, requires the coil the manufacturer specifies,...
 

bruceb58

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I am repeating what a few people already mentioned. If you installed a Pertronix, you still need the ballast resistor inline with the coil. The ignitor itself needs to be powered with straight 12v before the resistor.

With the Pertronix in there, measuring the voltage at the plus side of the coil isn't going to tell you much since it will read 12v no matter if a resistor is in there or not.

The best test to see if you have the resistor wire in there, take all the wires off the negative side of the coil, jumper the negative side of the coil to ground and measure the voltage. It should drop to 9V. If it stays at 12V, yo don't have the resistor in there anymore.
 
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Bt Doctur

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Coil Warning: DO NOT use a low-resistance or an HEI-style coil. 4-Cylinder: Use a coil that has resistance in the primary circuit of at least 3.0 Ohms (??). 6- and 8-Cylinder: Must be used with a coil that has resistance in the primary circuit of at least 1.5 ??. Using a coil with insufficient primary resistance can cause the ignition module to overheat and misfire until it cools down again, or fail prematurely, which will void the Hot-Spark ignition warranty. DO NOT reverse the polarity of the red and black wires - it will destroy the ignition module (and void its warranty)! The Hot-Spark module??s red wire connects to positive ( + or 15 on Bosch coil). The black wire connects to negative ( - or 1 on Bosch coil). Remove the condenser and its wire from vehicle. All other wires are connected to the coil in their original places. This module is designed for 12V negative ground applications only.
 

Bt Doctur

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MSD coil, Mallory Unilite, using ballast resistor, Some coils and EI have or don't have very much internal resistance thus may or may not need external resistance. The MSD coil is .7 ohm not much internal resistance and needing external resistance to bring the ohm value up to 1.5 ohms or it will run hot and burn up same thing with points not much resistance there. All depends on how the manufacturer of components built the coil/ ei unit. Mallory wants a resistor to be used because it's designed not to use full batt v. The stock ballast resistor is usually .8 ohm and stock coil are usually 1.5 ohm range so basic math could figure it out. However it depends on HOW the wiring is run. Is there ign on wires split to coil and ei or both running to coil/ resistor first has a lot to do with properly wiring.

It all boils down to how the manufacture designed the coil and electronic ignition, and how the engine is currently wired up.

If you want a bullet proof ignition system, stick with stock coil and points and keep points in good shape or I have a prestolite distributor with Mallory E-Spark EI that I swapped out for a unilite dizzy (another story, lol) either way the ballast resistor is needed along with stock ohm value coils. Msd coil .7 + ballast .8 = 1.5 ohm = stock coil rating, but mallory unit needs to be resisted by .8.

Basically it all comes down to combinations as to whats required for the ignition to work properly.
 
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lognum

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Thanks very much BT. Will try it out this weekend. So frustrating and so much money spent trying to diagnose!
 

lognum

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I believe the EI is [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, Sans-serif][SIZE=+1]Sierra # 18-5297 [/SIZE][/FONT] . Anyone have a recommendation for the coil set up? Not at the boat right now, but would be great to know ahead of time:)
 

bruceb58

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Pull the positive wire off the coil. Turn ignition to run. Measure the resistance between that wire and the positive battery post and report back.
 

lognum

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Pull the positive wire off the coil. Turn ignition to run. Measure the resistance between that wire and the positive battery post and report back.


Will advise. I am pretty sure there is also a resistor purple wire on the positive side of the coil also.
 
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MSD coil, Mallory Unilite, using ballast resistor, Some coils and EI have or don't have very much internal resistance thus may or may not need external resistance. The MSD coil is .7 ohm not much internal resistance and needing external resistance to bring the ohm value up to 1.5 ohms or it will run hot and burn up same thing with points not much resistance there. All depends on how the manufacturer of components built the coil/ ei unit. Mallory wants a resistor to be used because it's designed not to use full batt v. The stock ballast resistor is usually .8 ohm and stock coil are usually 1.5 ohm range so basic math could figure it out. However it depends on HOW the wiring is run. Is there ign on wires split to coil and ei or both running to coil/ resistor first has a lot to do with properly wiring.

It all boils down to how the manufacture designed the coil and electronic ignition, and how the engine is currently wired up.

If you want a bullet proof ignition system, stick with stock coil and points and keep points in good shape or I have a prestolite distributor with Mallory E-Spark EI that I swapped out for a unilite dizzy (another story, lol). either way the ballast resistor is needed along with stock ohm value coils. Msd coil .7 + ballast .8 = 1.5 ohm = stock coil rating, but mallory unit needs to be resisted by .8.

Basically it all comes down to combinations as to whats required for the ignition to work properly.

x 2... say what you want, my engine purrs like a kitten and runs like a top and I have points. If I loose spark for any reason.. I have every component in the tool box to get it running again... while I'm floating on the water.. for less than 25 bucks. How many Pertronix guys have a spare module in the their tool box? Or do they never fail? Seems like there are quite a few issues on here lately with them...
 
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bruceb58

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If it was my boat, the only way I would put an electronic ignition system on it would be with a new Delco EST distributor. I would not mess, with Pertronix, Mallory, Sieera or any other add on module to a points distributor.
 

stonyloam

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If I loose spark for any reason.. I have every component in the tool box to get it running again... while I'm floating on the water.. for less than 25 bucks. How many Pertronix guys have a spare module in the their tool box? Or do they never fail? Seems like there are quite a few issues on here lately with them...

Me too, a set of points mounted on the plate, and a screwdriver LOL! Seriously, the only reason for the coil to heat up is too much current flow. That means the total resistance is too low. In the stock setup the coil is 1.5 ohm, and the resistance wire is about 1.5 ohm. When starting the resistance wire is bypassed and battery voltage is applied directly to the coil to give a hotter spark when the battery voltage drops due to starter drain. When the ignition goes back to run the coil gets its voltage through the resistance wire for your total 3 ohm resistance. When the points close (or your module switches to closed) you should have a connection to ground from the - of the coil. It sounds like on your system you need the resistance wire in the coil circuit. If you need 12v to your module you would need to run a wire to a switched 12 v source such as the choke wire with no connection of the module to the coil +, if you can use the reduced voltage to the module then you can connect to the coil +. Depends on what your manufacturer requires. Hope this helps a little.
 

lognum

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Thanks for the advice. Will check it out this weekend and report back. Much appreciated!
 
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