Mercruiser 4.3…Milky oil coming from timing cover.

Thomas E

Cadet
Joined
Apr 10, 2022
Messages
9
I have a 96 mercruiser 4.3 lx gen+ with an Alpha one outdrive. The motor runs but after a few minutes of running under load I get water/oil mix coming out of the bottom corner of the timing cover on the port side. The oil in the sump is clean (no water). I talked with a mechanic friend of mine and he is saying that he’s pretty sure it’s a cracked block and sending water into the timing cover. I haven’t pulled the motor yet but I was trying to see if anyone else has seen this and what options I have before buying a new long block to throw in the boat.
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,917
I have a 96 mercruiser 4.3 lx gen+ with an Alpha one outdrive. The motor runs but after a few minutes of running under load I get water/oil mix coming out of the bottom corner of the timing cover on the port side. The oil in the sump is clean (no water). I talked with a mechanic friend of mine and he is saying that he’s pretty sure it’s a cracked block and sending water into the timing cover. I haven’t pulled the motor yet but I was trying to see if anyone else has seen this and what options I have before buying a new long block to throw in the boat.
Pressure test the cooling system, If water was getting into timing cover it would end up with milk in the sump as well....
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
If there is water behind the timing cover, there is water in the pan.

Might pull a breather tube off a valve cover and see if there is white foamy stuff on the underside. Note that the dipstick will not see water - oil floats and water is at bottom, so when you pull the dipstick it will look clean. Only good way to know if there is water is to drain the oil or use a vacuum to pull some off the bottom of the pan.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,197
If you're lucky it might be a leaky intake gasket since that will put water right into the cam valley, if not it could be a rotted out thermostat passage in the intake, blown head gaskets or a cracked head. Was the engine drained for winter storage?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,588
I have a 96 mercruiser 4.3 lx gen+ with an Alpha one outdrive. The motor runs but after a few minutes of running under load I get water/oil mix coming out of the bottom corner of the timing cover on the port side. The oil in the sump is clean (no water). I talked with a mechanic friend of mine and he is saying that he’s pretty sure it’s a cracked block and sending water into the timing cover. I haven’t pulled the motor yet but I was trying to see if anyone else has seen this and what options I have before buying a new long block to throw in the boat.
welcome aboard.

is this a new to you boat, or is this a boat you bought last year and winterized it yourself?
 

Thomas E

Cadet
Joined
Apr 10, 2022
Messages
9
If there is water behind the timing cover, there is water in the pan.

Might pull a breather tube off a valve cover and see if there is white foamy stuff on the underside. Note that the dipstick will not see water - oil floats and water is at bottom, so when you pull the dipstick it will look clean. Only good way to know if there is water is to drain the oil or use a vacuum to pull some off the bottom of the pan.
I will check the breathers and also try to suck or drain water from the bottom of the pan and see what I get.
 

Thomas E

Cadet
Joined
Apr 10, 2022
Messages
9
If you're lucky it might be a leaky intake gasket since that will put water right into the cam valley, if not it could be a rotted out thermostat passage in the intake, blown head gaskets or a cracked head. Was the engine drained for winter storage?
I hope it is something simple and I want to exhaust all options before getting a new motor. Is there anything I could check before pulling the motor? I know it would have to come out to get the harmonic balancer and timing cover off. The engine was drained for winter storage but this problem was there before I got the boat.
 

Thomas E

Cadet
Joined
Apr 10, 2022
Messages
9
welcome aboard.

is this a new to you boat, or is this a boat you bought last year and winterized it yourself?
Thanks. Glad to have a forum like this with a wealth of information and great guys to offer help for people in need.

I pulled the drain plugs. The boat was given to me by my in-laws and they bought it new in 96. It sat for a couple of years since they last used it. But I was told it was winterized after they pulled it out of the water. I discovered this issue after bringing it up to me in Tennesee last year and am just getting around to getting it going. I know it’s going to be a project and I’m preparing for the worst but want to make sure I need a new motor before buying one.
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Whatever you do, don't disassemble it until a pressure test of the block cooling system. Once you start pulling it apart you no longer can pressure test and you will always wonder where and what might be cracked.

Most common places for 4.3L V6 to have cracks is the lifter valley under the intake, and the intake itself. To pressure test, block off the hoses going to exhaust manifolds and risers. Then pull off the hose that comes up from the transom on the port side - that's the water intake line. Either plug it or jimmy up a fitting to pressure test from there. Block should hold 15 pounds indefinitely. If it has a leak, you can isolate by listening to find where it might be coming from.
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
I pulled the drain plugs.

Tell more here. You pulled the drain plugs after bringing it home but before running it? Did water come out? Or you pulled the drain plugs after last season running it? What did 'pulled the drain plugs' mean?
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,197
The main thing about draining is are you sure that the drain plug opening was not blocked by rust? You should always poke the hole with a stiff wire, thin screwdriver or pick. It is common for rust flakes to clog those drain holes, on both blocks and exhaust manifolds.
What to do?
Well, you can take off the exhaust manifolds, check if they were leaking internally by filling with acetone (careful, flammable) if they are leaking internally, they could be a source of water into a cyl
you can also use the air pressure test of the cooling passages (do a search, several here have posted how to do this) that will tell you if you have leaky head gaskets or cracked heads (it will tell you of the possibility, but you will have to take the intake and heads off to know for sure.
If the manifolds were leaking then replace them, change the oil and run it again. If are still getting water in the oil then do the air pressure test. As long as you don't have a cracked block, you can probably fix this yourself. Could be the intake gasket, intake itself, head gaskets or heads/block.

Seeing as you have a 96 Merc 4.3, you probably have the cursed Merc one piece batwing exhaust manifolds (used 96-99), those things are known to crack internally due to casting problems and put water in the engine. If you find that, you have to convert over to the 2 piece manifold set up, there are conversion kits (check out Barr marine's) that will run you about $1200 parts to get it done. If that's all it is, feel lucky. Merc actually discontinued those due to the problems in casting them.
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,280
Sure has the symptoms of a cracked engine block . . . As mentioned, pressure test on the cooling system before any wrench turning so you can know for sure.

Also, change the oil at this point and take a look at the old oil that comes out. In order to test for water in the oil, take a small amount (1/4 ounce) of oil in a shallow tin pan and gently heat the pan. If the oil starts boiling . . . that's the water.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,588
Thanks. Glad to have a forum like this with a wealth of information and great guys to offer help for people in need.

I pulled the drain plugs. The boat was given to me by my in-laws and they bought it new in 96. It sat for a couple of years since they last used it. But I was told it was winterized after they pulled it out of the water. I discovered this issue after bringing it up to me in Tennesee last year and am just getting around to getting it going. I know it’s going to be a project and I’m preparing for the worst but want to make sure I need a new motor before buying one.
if you did not pull the drain in the intake manifold thermostat cross-over, then you most likely froze the intake and it busted.

definitely pressure test the cooling water jacket.

good news, its just a 4.3, they are fairly inexpensive from a pull-a-part salvage yard

being a 1996 purchase, need to find out if its a 1996 and later vortec headed motor (8 intake bolts) or a 1995 and earlier non-vortec motor with 12 intake bolts

if it does have the batwings like discussed above, time to change them.
 

Alumarine

Captain
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
3,744
I discovered this issue after bringing it up to me in Tennesee last year and am just getting around to getting it going.
Just to clarify, did you notice the water in oil issue last year and are just trying to figure it out now?
 

Thomas E

Cadet
Joined
Apr 10, 2022
Messages
9
Whatever you do, don't disassemble it until a pressure test of the block cooling system. Once you start pulling it apart you no longer can pressure test and you will always wonder where and what might be cracked.

Most common places for 4.3L V6 to have cracks is the lifter valley under the intake, and the intake itself. To pressure test, block off the hoses going to exhaust manifolds and risers. Then pull off the hose that comes up from the transom on the port side - that's the water intake line. Either plug it or jimmy up a fitting to pressure test from there. Block should hold 15 pounds indefinitely. If it has a leak, you can isolate by listening to find where it might be coming from.
Sound like this is the first step after checking the oil for water.
 

Thomas E

Cadet
Joined
Apr 10, 2022
Messages
9
Tell more here. You pulled the drain plugs after bringing it home but before running it? Did water come out? Or you pulled the drain plugs after last season running it? What did 'pulled the drain plugs' mean?
My father and law pulled the plugs the last season before taking the boat out of the water. I didn’t pull them before I ran it so I can’t say 100% he pulled them without taking his word for it. But after running the boat last year and finding this issue I also pulled the plugs before winter so I wouldn’t cause any further damage.
 

Thomas E

Cadet
Joined
Apr 10, 2022
Messages
9
Just to clarify, did you notice the water in oil issue last year and are just trying to figure it out now?
Yes. The boat was given to me after sitting for a couple years so I changed the oil, fuel lines, spark plugs, fuel separator. I found the issue with water/oil coming out of timing cover too late in the season to start fixing it last year so I’m just getting the process started.
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,917
What is the best way to do this?
Block off the water inlet hose from the drive (pipe fittings with an compressed air connection) and water dump into exhaust manifolds/elbows. Pressurize with 15 psi should hold air indefinitely. Do this before you start tearing into it.

Depending on exactly what serial number and cooling configuration this can be a bit different
 
Top