Mercruiser 5.0 Thunderbolt 5 ignition problem

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,570
Peter you hijacked an old thread..... not cool, please start your own
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Thanks for including the serial number. I was able to look up your engine and be aware of exactly what's on it... That helped immensely...
1998, Bravo 5.0L with Thunderbolt V and knock sensor. Engine model number 4M12025LS...

Your engine also has a knock control module. In order to properly test the basic ignition components unplug the knock control module, disconnect the Grey tacho wire and run through the diagnostic chart. Follow each step in order, and don't try to skip or guess anything. A test light is fine.

You already said you have no power on the wht/red wire with the key on. That could be no power coming from the module, or the sensor is faulty and grounding it, which would also explain the module getting hot. Disconnect the wht/red from the sensor and recheck. If you now have 12 volts on the module end of the wht/red wire, replace the sensor... If not, the module...

The only other thing I would check it that the distributor body is properly grounded. If there isn't one already there, I would put a black wire from the dissy body directly to a good known ground point on the engine block....

Chris.......
 
Last edited:

peter555

Cadet
Joined
Feb 1, 2015
Messages
10
AllDodge

I apologize but after expending time trying to start a new thread I could not figure how. I will try again an post my question.
 

peter555

Cadet
Joined
Feb 1, 2015
Messages
10
this is a new repost as recommended of the "no spark" where I made a mistake in how to post a new thread. So here I think I have it right. I will track both threads.



I have a 2000 5.0 (0L338413) with a Bravo 1 and I have no spark. the ignition module heats up when the key is left on the ON position. with my limited knowledge and following a posted procedure for testing the ignition here is what I have.

1 the sending wire is not grounded when disconnected from the Tach. The tach sending post does ground when key is ON.
2 Disconnected the Grey sending cable from the tach and turn engine. NO SPARK
3 The positive terminal of the coil does have 12V
4 the wht/red cable to the distributor DID NOT HAVE POWER. I did a test with a light but not a volt meter so if it was low I do not know. as per the chart it means REPLACE THE MODULE.

I notice that in my motor the wire going to the neg term of the coil is grey and there is a grey wire in the module plug and the sending wire to the tach is grey. As per wiring diagram these wires most be connected within the harness.

I also did the following: Disconnected the module plug and the grey wire going to the module connector is neg when tested.

If the tach is grounding the sending lead why would it not start when I disconnected it.
Is the module suppose to get hot with the key in the ON.

I do not want to spend $500 on a new module just to have it go bad because there is something else wrong.
Also I saw on Ebay an after market module for $300 are there such thing?

thank you

peter
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
AllDodge

I apologize but after expending time trying to start a new thread I could not figure how. I will try again an post my question.

Hi Pete,

After AD had posted that you had HiJacked, one of the mods parsed your post and started it as a new thread, so it was already done. As we have a lot of trouble monitoring multiple thread from the same person on exactly the same question, I have merged the 2 threads and deleted the 'doubled up' post.... If you just use the one thread (this one) everyone should be happy.... :D...

How did you go with the test I suggested?

Chris....
iboats mod team.
 
Top