Mercruiser 5.7 thunderbolt v rebuilt twice, now it won't idle

cich69

Cadet
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
21
1996 Thunderbolt V with Bravo 3 drive.... I'm using the factory service manual #17

I have a question about the base timing mode. The purple/white wire is not on the starboard side of the engine, but looks like someone cut it shorter and I found it near the thunderbolt module/knock sensor module with a bullet connector crimped on. When I ground that wire it should lock the timing into base mode, correct? Because, when I try to set the timing it still jumps around some. I set the timing as close to 8* as I can, but it jumps from 7-9. Then when it's returned to normal mode the timing bounces from 2-12* at idle, but is closer to 10* most of the time. Also, when its in base timing mode if I rev the engine up I still get full timing!

Should the timing be locked in with no advance while the purple/white wire is grounded? What would cause it to not go into base mode, bad thunderbolt V or knock sensor module? The timing is different with the purple/white wire grounded, but it still does not "lock" the timing.

Here's the history... Lost compression in Cylinder 7, took the engine in to a reputable machine shop and had the engine rebuilt as well as stroked to a 383. I put the engine in the boat, aligned it and set the base timing as well as idle mixture and speed. Took the boat out a dozen times and it ran great!..... Then the next time out it idled fine, but sounded like it was missing and would not get on plane. Pulled the spark plugs out for a compression test and immediately saw the #7 spark plug had no tip, that cylinder also had zero compression and a few other cylinder were low.

Took the engine back out of the boat and took it back to the machine shop. They said it was run hot or lean and tuliped several intake valves, they rebuilt the heads and installed a new fuel pump. Also checked the anti siphon valve and found a small piece of a twig stuck in there. So the pickup tube was checked and the anti siphon valve replaced.... After re installing the engine I cannot get it to idle. It surges and dies, but if you give it gas it sounds great above idle.


The carb was rebuilt with the engine initially, and was rebuilt again the second time but they said it looked perfectly clean the second time.
 

Fun Times

Moderator
Staff member
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May 16, 2009
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9,124
Hi there, What Carburetor do you have installed on the engine.... 2 or 4 Barrel? Is your original engine a 5.7 L or LX engine model? Engine serial number handy?

When it seemed to be running more correctly while adjusting the timing, what is/was the idle RPM at?.........Best is usually between 643 - 648 RPM. Also as a test with the engine running you can normally hear the engine change RPM when connecting or disconnecting the timing lead wire in question so be sure it's doing that while watching a digital RPM meter. You should be able to set the timing at 10* before vs 8* THUNDERBOLT V IGNITION SYSTEM

Now that you bumped up the engine size, did you compensate the carbs jet sizes any?

What spark plugs you running? (brand/part numbers).
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
"Base timing mode" merely disables the features that were added to IV to create V... In base mode, the system will act like a IV. Things like Idle speed spark control, Acceleration Spark Advance and Mean-Best-Timing aren't available. You will still have a full advance curve available, just not the fruity bits that go on it......

Chris.......
 

cich69

Cadet
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
21
The engine has a weber 4 barrel carb on it... The lowest I can get the engine to idle and stay running is 750-800 right now, but it surges a lot and still sometimes dies. Before the last rebuild I had it idling at 700 smoothly.

I also forgot to mention, when cranking it sometimes sounds like two spark plug wires are crossed. I mean it sounds like it hits a rough spot cranking, but if I ground the coil wire so it can't spark it will crank as long as I want without ever doing it. So I'm pretty sure that's spark related?... The wires were installed at the machine shop, but I checked the firing order several times before installing new wires and have checked the order again several times. I'm positive the wires are on the correct number on the distributor cap (the larger #'s for standard rotation though).

I did not re jet the carb, but it ran very well after the 1st rebuild as is.

The spark plugs are AC mr43T gapped at .035
 
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