Mercruiser alignment issues

[tigger3650]

The water passage O-ring was separate. I have seen some shafts with the 2 O-rings near the u-joint and a third closer to where it enters the coupler.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Sorry I hadn't read this earlier. Just wondering if the difficulty before in getting the alignment bar in was in aiming the gimbal bearing. The gimbal bearing is made so change angles, it 'gimbals'. The gimbal bearing needs to be aimed at the coupler before either the alignment bar or the drive shaft will line up and insert into the coupler. Using a flashlight and looking through the gimbal bearing at the coupler you can get it really close. If it is aimed away from the coupler, use the alignment bar to angle it correctly. Once you have gotten the alignment bar all the way in, I take a 2 pound dead blow hammer and whack the bar up, down, left and right to get the gimbal bearing as close to straight as I can. Give it a good whack.

An Alpha One u-joint is a tough fit between the teeth on the bearing nut. I welded up a special socket for my ball joint press, with notches to push the cap past and between two teeth. Even if you have to file or grind a teensy bit off a corner of the teeth to get it past, you need to replace that u-joint. Note that u-joints do not have to 'marine'. There is a list of automotive part numbers in the adults only section. If in doubt, always replace the u-joints. They are cheaper than any of the parts around them.


Rick

 

[nola mike]

This brings up another thought. The boat is an '85, the motor came out of a' 90'sish Bayliner. They left my outdrive and transom assembly and said they couldn't put the newer one in because the cutout in my transom was bigger than the one required for the newer one. I was not about to replace the transom, again. I was wondering if there is a difference here?

Assuming the newer boat had an alpha 1 gen 2, you'd need to replace the transom assembly, bellhousing, etc. Cutouts AFAIK are identical. Shouldn't be your issue.

Too short, I would think it would pull from the splines?

Too short and it destroys your coupler.

 

[tigger3650]

Rick,
The gimbal bearing could have been the issue with the alignment. After replacing it and aligning everything the first go around I ran the motor and discovered the knocking in turns. I pulled the drive off and rechecked the alignment and it was way off. Played hell for 3 hours trying to align it. After sliding the puller on and applying some pressure to the bearing, I was able to get the bar to finely go into the splines but with force. I did put the drive back on just to seal it overnight. The next day when I pulled the drive, for some unknown reason, I was able to tweak the motor into perfect alignment. It may have been due to tweaking the gimbal bearing. I did (multiple times over the last week) use the bar and a mallet to "set" the bearing angle. Who knows, but it seams good now.

I'm going to see if I can find 2 u-joints this afternoon and replace them, or at least the one that hasn't been replaced.

Can you send a picture of the socket you made up?

As for filing down the tabs on the retaining nut, I contemplated cutting 2 opposing tabs off just to replace the u-joint. I don't think this would impact the integrity of the retaining nut enough to worry about it.

 

[tigger3650]

Assuming the newer boat had an alpha 1 gen 2, you'd need to replace the transom assembly, bellhousing, etc. Cutouts AFAIK are identical. Shouldn't be your issue.



Too short and it destroys your coupler.

The transom assemblies are clearly different. Mine is much larger than the one that was on the Bayliner. I'm not sure if the drive was a Gen 2 or not.

I believe that nothing between the engine and the transom assembly should be different though correct?

They may have pulled the bell housing and such off of my old motor and put them on the new one. Not exactly sure

 

[alldodge]

Just out of curiosity, where are you going with this?

If it is the short one it will strip out the coupler splines

 

[nola mike]

The transom assemblies are clearly different. ...

Agreed.

Assuming the newer boat had an alpha 1 gen 2, you'd need to replace the transom assembly,

The cutouts are the same though.

I believe that nothing between the engine and the transom assembly should be different though correct?

Correct.

They may have pulled the bell housing and such off of my old motor and put them on the new one. Not exactly sure

Just read through the thread, and we actually don't know what you have. I assumed that you still have your original drive, which should be alpha one. If that's the case, then you still have everything original from the transom assembly aft.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Here's a pic of the tool end I made to let me press the bearing cup out. In the drawing it is shown in blue, with the bearing nut shown in yellow and the u-joint cup shown in green. I did have to knock the corners off my older drive, while the newer one has plenty of clearance. The cutouts on the tool support the press and keep things square while the press is pushing. This is using a simple ball end press.

 

[tigger3650]

Just read through the thread, and we actually don't know what you have. I assumed that you still have your original drive, which should be alpha one. If that's the case, then you still have everything original from the transom assembly aft.

Correct. everything except the motor is original (at least when I bought it). The S/Ns on the drive and transom assembly reference Alpha 1 Gen 1.

 

[tigger3650]

Here's a pic of the tool end I made to let me press the bearing cup out. In the drawing it is shown in blue, with the bearing nut shown in yellow and the u-joint cup shown in green. I did have to knock the corners off my older drive, while the newer one has plenty of clearance. The cutouts on the tool support the press and keep things square while the press is pushing. This is using a simple ball end press.

I think I could probably notch out an old socket and accomplish the same outcome. Thanks!! I never thought of notching the adapter to fit the outdrive!!

This is why I love you guys and this forum!!!!

 

[nola mike]

Here's a pic of the tool end I made to let me press the bearing cup out. In the drawing it is shown in blue, with the bearing nut shown in yellow and the u-joint cup shown in green. I did have to knock the corners off my older drive, while the newer one has plenty of clearance. The cutouts on the tool support the press and keep things square while the press is pushing. This is using a simple ball end press.

That's cool. I actually thought about doing something like this when I just did the u-joints, looks like it would work well. achris , could we put a link to this tool in the diy tool section?

 

[achris]

That's cool. I actually thought about doing something like this when I just did the u-joints, looks like it would work well. achris , could we put a link to this tool in the diy tool section?

I'm currently in Dubai airport. Once I get home, I'll perform the necessary acts of magic to comply with your request.

Chris.......

Edit (2000hours) Done...

 

[tigger3650]

Holy Crap!!! What a day!!!
Got the U-joint out. It didn't exactly go well. I ended up breaking off 2 tabs on the bearing retainer. They look to be clean breaks above the threads so I think it will be okay. They also didn't want to go in very easy. I still need to put the grease fitting in.

I was cleaning out the grease from around the gimbal bearing and coupler. I also cleaned a bunch of grease out of the splines to. (We won't talk about the chunk of paper towel that got stuck in there!!)

During the cleaning process, it felt like there was a gap behind the gimbal bearing so we decided to whack it a few more times with the bearing/ alignment tool. Now the alignment is out.

Spent 3 hours night before last aligning it. Got it close, put the outdrive on, ran it up and it rattled in turns. Pulled the outdrive off, messed with it for awhile, even tried pulling the bearing back out (kind of gently). With no movement noted we gave up on that. Slipped the alignment bar in and wow. Best it had been yet. Called it a night.

Last night tweaked it for about 10 minutes, bumped the motor over a bunch of times and had the alignment perfect. Ran it, still rattles in turns.

Pulled it today, replaced the u-joint, already mentioned the bearing and gave up due to time, frustration and exhaustion.

Any suggestions? Back at it tomorrow.

I did measure the shaft. It was 9 7/16".

I have the alignment close, not perfect. I'm thinking of putting the drive back on and run it for a few minutes and pull again. Then try aligning it. It seemed to have worked for yesterday's alignment.

 

[tigger3650]

This

I just looked at the diagram again. There is a small lip at the base of my yoke, down on the shaft that I measured to. I think if I went to the actual base of the yoke, it would bring it to 9 9/16"

 

[Rick Stephens]

I still think the main thing is to give the alignment bar a solid whack up, down, left and right. That should take care of aiming the gimbal bearing. Then it is all up and down adjustments. To do those, you grease the end of your alignment bar and slip it in, slip it right back out - then read the spline marks in the grease. There are some good drawings in the adults only section, so I won't repeat that - get it perfect and forget it.

Amazing how a seemingly small task like replacing a couple crosses can screw you over. Hang in there. It'll get done and you'll be golden.

Rick

 

[achris]

...During the cleaning process, it felt like there was a gap behind the gimbal bearing so we decided to whack it a few more times with the bearing/ alignment tool. Now the alignment is out....

You now need to replace the gimbal bearing. Whacking it with the alignment tool is impacting on the inner race, that 'whack' gets transferred through the balls and the outer race and into the gimbal housing. You damaged the balls in the bearing, and that's your noise.

Chris......

 

[tigger3650]

The bearing tool I have attaches to the alignment bar. There is a pin that holds it in place on the shaft. It has the rings around it that put equal pressure on the bearing, Similar to the ones used on autos.

 

[achris]

The bearing tool I have attaches to the alignment bar. There is a pin that holds it in place on the shaft. It has the rings around it that put equal pressure on the bearing, Similar to the ones used on autos.

Picture?

 

[tigger3650]

It's out at the boat. I will try and remember to snap one tomorrow. In the mean time I will see if I can find a picture of it online

 

[tigger3650]

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