Mercruiser IL6 165 -- more dumb questions

[David Foe]

I am winterizing my Merc 165 IL6 (MC165 outdrive) for the first time and, as I read through the manual and other posts on this site, I wonder about a few things (I guess I seek reassurance!):

(1) How does the water pump in the out-drive drain? I mean, once I haul the boat onto land and block it up (its at a cottage) how can I be sure that the water in and above the water pump has been drained?

(2) How much oil should I expect to drain from (and to refill) refill the gear box?

(3) I don't have a fuel shut off valve (I will install one eventually) at the tank so how do I run the fuel out of the carburetor?

(4) Opening the three port side drains (block, manifold and one other) is simple enough but how do I know that there is no water trapped at and upstream of the thermostat.

Thanks! David

 

[ziggy]

Re: Mercruiser IL6 165 -- more dumb questions

(1) How does the water pump in the out-drive drain? I mean, once I haul the boat onto land and block it up (its at a cottage) how can I be sure that the water in and above the water pump has been drained?

with the boat level and the drive all the way in (down). gravity drains it. everything from the down side of the riser (assuming rwc) gravity drains out.

(2) How much oil should I expect to drain from (and to refill) refill the gear box?

a little more than a qt. when draining it. feel the first of the gear lub the comes out for metal shavings. inspect gear lub for water intrusion. i like to pressure test my drive when empty of gear lub. makes me think i might make it to next season if i can hold pressure/vacuum.

(3) I don't have a fuel shut off valve (I will install one eventually) at the tank so how do I run the fuel out of the carburetor?

you don't have to run her dry. add sta-bil or the likes to the fuel in your fuel tank for the last run. then leave the fuel in place over lay up.

(4) Opening the three port side drains (block, manifold and one other) is simple enough but how do I know that there is no water trapped at and upstream of the thermostat.

be sure and ream out the drains while draining the water out. scale and the likes can plug the drain holes while draining.
keep bow high when draining
while it's debatable. i use anti freeze over lay up. i introduce via the tstat houseing, which i remove.

have ya heard. the only dumb question is the one that's not asked...

 

[EddiePetty]

Re: Mercruiser IL6 165 -- more dumb questions

.....with the boat level and the drive all the way in (down). gravity drains it. everything from the down side of the riser (assuming rwc) gravity drains out.

....and to add just a small comment to Admiral Ziggy's suggestions:

Ensure that the "pee hole" on the forward/stbd side of the lower unit is open to allow all water to drain from the lower shift shaft void. Folks tell me it gets kinda cold up your way.

 

[David Foe]

Re: Mercruiser IL6 165 -- more dumb questions

Thanks for all the reassurance/suggestions. I don't think there is a "pee hole" on the MC1 (MC165) or, at leaast, a glance at the service manual doesn't seem to mention one.

I am winterizing the boat in a remote northern location where it will not be accesssible for seven or eight months. So, more questions ... (thanks in advance!)

(1) Taking off the lower end of the outdrive looks kind of easy: put it in forward, pull six bolts, and hope it comes off without a fight ... something like that?

(2) Is there any downside if I were to do this and bring the lower end home where its warm to change the impellor and look for leaks/pressure test the thing?

(3) To check engine alignment is it correct that I would need an alignment tool which, I see from the internet, is basically a steel rod with a stepped diameter and which costs a surprisingly large amount (I saw one for $195 somewhere!)?

(4) Does removing the lower piece (the part that is held on with 6 horizonally oriented bolts) make it easier to "check bellows condition"?


Thanks again for all help ... past and future!


David

 

[ziggy]

Re: Mercruiser IL6 165 -- more dumb questions

I don't think there is a "pee hole" on the MC1 (MC165) or, at leaast, a glance at the service manual doesn't seem to mention one.

i think EddiePetty is refering to the hole on the ft. starboard side of the bullet. it is a cavity if ft. of the shift shaft. and on both old boats i've had, that cavity was full of muck. very hard muck too. i had to scrape it out with a flat blade and hammer. then vacuumed out after clean.
here's what the pee hole looks like on the muffs.

(1) Taking off the lower end of the outdrive looks kind of easy: put it in forward, pull six bolts, and hope it comes off without a fight ... something like that?

pretty much. ya gotta unhook the rams too.

(2) Is there any downside if I were to do this and bring the lower end home where its warm to change the impellor and look for leaks/pressure test the thing?

not that i'm aware of. i store mine inside over the winter. only thing i did extra was to make a cover for the bell housing like this.

ya could use wood or whatever too. they also sell a plastic one on the market. mines made out of spare pleixglass i had around and a vitimin pill bottle.
i even think it's a good idea to store the drive inside. it can't be stolen that way. + i take my time to getting around to serviceing it. something to do to the boat in the dead of a snowy winter.

(3) To check engine alignment is it correct that I would need an alignment tool which, I see from the internet, is basically a steel rod with a stepped diameter and which costs a surprisingly large amount (I saw one for $195 somewhere!)?

i think there a little cheaper than that. got me a glm one for $75. and their chepaer than that on ebay. or i believe the specs. of the tool are maybe in the adults only section so ya can make your own. (edit. see item 10 in the adults only sticky at the top of the i/o forum. post #1 at the very bottom has the alignment bar specs.)

(4) Does removing the lower piece (the part that is held on with 6 horizonally oriented bolts) make it easier to "check bellows condition"?

not really. but removing the drive does to a degree because ya can see inside them. running the drive full out stretches them out best to see and inspect them from the outside. least that's what i've found.

 

[David Foe]

Re: Mercruiser IL6 165 -- more dumb questions

Thanks Ziggy! That was just what I needed to see. I'm off the the cottage now to get this thing done before the snow.

 

[Eric 3.7LX Alpha 1]

Re: Mercruiser IL6 165 -- more dumb questions

BTW: didn't see any dumb questions in this thread. Might actually help out some others.

That drain hole in Ziggy's photo probably won't be very accessible to clean until the outdrive is separated for the impeller, but if you are going to keep it indoors heated, shouldn't be a problem. Mine was also full of gunk, and took some work to get it cleaned out and opened up to drain that cavity.