Mercury 1400 question

[fyrfytr33]

Mercury 1400 question

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I have a rebuilt 1400 late 70's that has been reliable until last year. It rests on the back of a 17' 1968 Glasply, totally refitted. Anyway I think I have created my problems and am looking for some help. Last year I rebuilt the carbs (started having problems keeping an idle), started and ran fine (except the idle problem) when first out. Next trip out the engine died and wouldn't restart. Found this site and decided to tackle this once and for all. Went out and it started right up and ran with some throttle or the start lever but still won't idle. Read about a link and sync and went to it, to my surprise while looking around I found a welch plug (I think that's the name) lying on the bottom of the engine compartment. When I looked I found another loose and even bent from the distributor hitting it. So here is my question, Would this cause the engine to not idle? I'm not sure what these plugs seal but I'm pretty sure they should be air tight. I sealed them with rubber cement but that had come off also.
So this is where I'm at now, I have reinstalled the plugs and pinged them with a punch to tighten them up, resealed them with rubber cement. I am going to wait until I get a reply before I reinstall the carbs. Once I'm happy with that I'll do a link and sync. Please offer any advice or ask more questions.

Thank you,

 

[AMD Rules]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

Yes, a missing welch plug will make it idle poorly, and even worse can lean it out.

Hoping you didn't run it too long without it.

Make sure they're secure and air tight.... then re-test.

 

[fyrfytr33]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

What would be the best sealer? I think I wall remove the cement as it dosen't work. I think my manual said Gasketsinch, sound right?

Thank you

 

[AMD Rules]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

Yup...

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=322043


.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

The distributor should not hit the carbs. Make sure it is bolted tight and repair any damaged parts of the distributor. if the cap clamp is hitting, you probably have it in the incorrect place.

 

[AMD Rules]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

Good point Chris! I overlooked that minor issue..lol

Couldn't see the forest through the trees so to speak.

 

[fyrfytr33]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

I'll try and check out why they touch (it was more of an interference while trying to get top carb off, but something had to bend that welch plug) tonight or tomorrow. At this point I have reinstalled the welch plugs and punched them slightly to tighten them up, and reapplied gasketcinch. Installed the carbs and adjusted the linkage so all throttle plates begin moving at the same time. So now I check the compression and move on to the link and sync.

Thank you

 

[fyrfytr33]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

OK! Compression 125 psi all cylinders +/- 2 psi.

Replaced all fuel lines, filter is clean, carbs look good. A tiny bit of play on the top carb at the top of the throttle plate shaft. Barely visible, I do understand it can affect idling but I'll cross that bridge later.

I think you guys are on to something. I backed out the throttle stop screw and the throttle plates still don't open fully and I would expect the spring to fully close the throttle and retard the timing when released. I think I get how it works but must have put it together wrong last year. Dizzy or timing belt off? Wrong position? Any strings or advice here?

P.S. I learned last year the rotor does not come off the rotor shaft!

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

The throttle cable is push pull. The carb spring will not close the throttle on its own. Set the throttle cable barrel nut with some preload to make sure it closes the throttle.

The economizer (brass) spring (kind of a collar) on the dissy should bend after dissy hits max spark advance, opening the carbs all the way.

On that 1400, there should be an adjustable timing pointer. You need to make sure it points to TDC. Merc wants you to measure distance from head to piston top, add .464" to that and set piston to that spot(BTDC). Now adjust timing pointer to point to .464 mark on decal. Now turn flywheel to TDC, remove timing belt and set dissy cast arrow to point to flywheel. Now reinstall belt.

The link and sync instructions in the FAQ will help you set the timing for idle pickup and max.

 

[fyrfytr33]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

So I don't have a dial indicator. Would it be possible to use the end of a vernier caliper to get that measurement? Is it from the spark plug seat or where/what do you consider the head to top of piston? I'll get out to verify the spark and look at the timing in a bit.

 

[AMD Rules]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

You can use a vernier, but you need to be confident you don't move the caliper at all between measurements. The top of the piston is not perfectly flat and will mess up your accuracy if done by hand.

You can find true TDC my rotating the flywheel CW until the piston rests against a fixed stop just before TDC (bolt threaded into an old spark plug for example). Then rotate the flywheel CCW until the piston rests against the same fixed stop. Split the difference and you've found true TDC.

As Chris mentioned, it is from that TDC position that you want to measure .464" piston movement downwards BTDC and set the timing pointer to .464" mark on flywheel decal, etc.

 

[fyrfytr33]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

OK.

Today I checked the timing pointer. Used a venier caliper but I see what you mean about you can't let it move or you have to start over. I brought the #1 piston to TDC via a small dowel cw and ccw (it lined up with the 0* TDC mark), set my caliper against the spark plug seat and moved it in until it touched the piston. Reset the caliper gauge to 0, then slid it out .464 and locked it down. Spun the flywheel and came back cw until it just touched the end of the caliper. Looked around the other side and to my surprise it was exactly on the .464 mark. That made me feel good.
Looked at the pulley on top of the dizzy and I think it may have been off one tooth/notch. I'm not exactly sure what the mark on the pulley looks like, there is a bump out on the bottom just left of the alignment pin. Is this the timing mark? I hope so, that is what I used to line up with the center lines of the dizzy and the crank. It was one tooth to the left, I hope these adjustments sort this out. Pulled the cap and the cap and rotor look great, new shaft and bearings last year.
Readjusted the carb linkage so they open at the same time or as close as I can get it, then the throttle stop so they stop just as they reach full open. Timing light is burned out, more time more money. Set the mixture screws out 1 3/4 turns from a light seat. Cleaned, lubed put everything back except the trim and cables.
Does it sound like I'm on the right track?

Thanks for all your help, you guys are worth more than a thousand books.

 

[AMD Rules]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

I don't have a lot of time to look right now, but my '72 1150 lines up for pulley belt alignment like this. You should have a similar arrow, and marks on your flywheel accordingly.

That small bump on the bottom casting is for primary pickup timing point if I recall.

Sounds like you are confident with TDC and .464 position. Good job.

 

[fyrfytr33]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

Thank you. I think I will look at this again. I didn't notice the dots on the flywheel, also I was looking on the pulley cover for the arrow. The position of the pin appears to be in the right place but on my engine the flywheel sticker is lining up where the dots are. Would it be possible that the single dot printed on the sticker is the mark I'm looking for? I sure wish repair manuals were written for those of us with no experience. I don't know what I would do without the knowlege on this site. Probably pay the piper or get frustrated and give up on it.

Thanks again.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

Under the pully cover is the cast arrow. There should be a dot on the flywheel that this needs to point to. Merc expects the pully will be off by 1/2 tooth, and gave instructions on which way to position the pully. I have forgotten these instructions unfortunately.

 

[fyrfytr33]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

Yeah I read that in the Seloc manual. I still have to verify that I have it right. If I can find a bulb for my timing light or buy a cheap one I might be able to finish up the link and sync and get out to the lake.

Things are looking up. I hope I got everything right. Maybe I'll get some photos and put them up. It's not perfect but it has served me well for 25 years.

Thank you for all your help.

 

[AMD Rules]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

Crossing fingers for you. Sounds like you've got everything in good shape.

There is a DOT on the upper surface of my flywheel, in addition to the three punch marks below.

I should have mentioned that arrow marked on the distro pulley is under the top cap. Thanks to Chris for pointing that out.

Chris mentioned 1/2 tooth off to get it lined up. You want the arrow in line with the dot(s) and the distro shaft center line, or just a hair to the left if necessary to get the belt installed.

Good luck.

 

[fyrfytr33]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

More problems. Checked firing order, correct. Tried to start with muffs on no go. Sputtered but would not run. Re-checked the pulley mark and moved it to where you said. Started and ran with the start lever at half, around 1000 rpm. Won't idle smooth, fairly rough. Had to buy a new timing light. Bought a new impeller kit and trim zinc.
Adjusted cables now they're too stiff, I'll have to look at them again. Went to clamp the cables in and the cable holder snapped. Don't know where I'll find another. Went out this morning and there is an oil spot under the skag, looks like the shaft seal is leaking. Glad I haven't changed the gear oil yet.
Looked at a '97 21' Glastron CC with 5.7 I/O. Had the wife talked into looking at it. Got to the shop and someone had bought it. Guess I'll keep working on this. What will win love or money?

 

[fyrfytr33]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

New day. Found a used control box at the boat shop, pulled it and mine apart, mine was in better shape so I cleaned and lubed it and put it back together. Found some cracked insulation on the choke wire, fixed that and taped up another spot that could be going bad. Do they make replacement ignition and neutral switches? Adjusted the cables and everything seems to work. Used a cable tie and a plastic wedge to hold the cables until I can find a new clamp. It works for now but if it broke the barrel could slip out, bad. Anyone have a cable clamp?

Work tomorrow, then eight off. Hope to get this done and get to the lake.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Mercury 1400 question

Replacement ign switches are avail at a dealer. It is likely neutral switches are as well

Sounds like you need a junkyard as well. I have a lot of those parts on my '77 1500, which threw a rod. Let me know if you need something.

BTW that motor has a lot of parts incommon with all the inline 4/6 motors from early 70s to late 80s.