MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

[Jim Hawkins]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

I'm thinking that there may still be 3 - 4" of the inner transom skin from the deck down to the hull. Easiest thing, gouge out some foam and see if it is open to the underside of the deck or if the inner skin is still there. If the inner skin IS there then I get what your saying about filling it with resin but I would chop up a bunch of fiberglass to mix with the resin.

And I'm with that Phelps fellow, how cool is it to have wing vents on a boat! Can I have them? I also wanted to say something about them but my previous post got cut off.

 

[sphelps]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

It would take a bunch of resin to fill the void . I,m not sure how well that would work. It would get extremely hot during the cure . Maybe in layers giving it time to cure . :noidea:

Edit: Not sure how the ser # works but mine is # 6720 .. I think that means mine is 23 boats older !

 

[redfishingfun]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Thanks JB....Great job explaining the sig thingy.
I will play around with it more later but you did an excellent job explaining!:laugh:

 

[redfishingfun]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

I don't know what color they called it, I call it turquoise. I still have my original seats (white) but they need to be rebuilt. How are you doing your transom? I did mine with Seacast and am very happy I did.

I have been looking at different blue seats but a little off and it won't fly......so I will probably go with white. They will look good and no worry about matching them. It is good to hear your original ones where white. I would love to go with sea cast. I have watched all the videos on you tube and know that is what SP went with as well. due to cost and not wanting to "wait for the funds" to come in and I want to get it going, so will probably go with glassed pw as Wood did. I will probably start with the wiring as this will get the motor checked out. I will start on that this weekend. What type fiber glass cloth should I go with for the wood transom?
Thanks M

 

[redfishingfun]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Took me a little bit to understand the foam bit. If I get it the foam fills the space from the bottom of the hull up to the floor, right? It looks like the lower drain hole is still there so I guess the previous owner foamed around that hole but I wonder how far (forward) under the floor the foam oozed, OR is the inside skin of the transom still down there? I don't think resin from a pool company is any differant than other resins. The thig you need t

Jim,
You are right about from the bottom of hull to floor with the foam. I cut the drain holes out and the foam only goes back to where floor was cut out. When I got the boat I had to cut the foam flat or even with the floor and the "what I think is black mold" was not on the foam. I could bleach it and resin it or cut it out and resin/glass the whole thing. What is PB? Would it be veasible to use this on top of the foam? Does 25.00 per gal sound about right for resin?

 

[redfishingfun]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Thanks for the help on posting pics! I'm kinda "digging" the vent windows myself!

 

[redfishingfun]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

It would take a bunch of resin to fill the void . I,m not sure how well that would work. It would get extremely hot during the cure . Maybe in layers giving it time to cure . :noidea:

Edit: Not sure how the ser # works but mine is # 6720 .. I think that means mine is 23 boats older !

SP,
Have you ever thought about mixing the spray in house insulation into a bucket of resin and mixing it? I was just thinking....and I am not too sure it wouldn't be way more expensive than Sea Cast! Do you know what the least amount of Sea Cast you can purchase?
Thanks,
M

 

[redfishingfun]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work


Is this called the solenoid box?

 

[Jim Hawkins]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Now that I see the inner skin of the transom is cut out, you might as well go with plywood.

Not sure if you got what I was saying about the bottom of the transom. Saying the foam does not go under the deck is not the same as saying that the bottom of the inner transom skin is still there. After taking a closer look at your pics I see what SP saw that the floor has been cut back farther than the backside of the transom. Chances are the inner skin was removed all the way down to the hull. If that's the case you will need to tab the new inner skin (as SP said).

SP, would you agree RFF's first step should be to just get all that foam out of there?

 

[sphelps]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Yep. You really have no other choice but to cut the deck back about 10" or so. Install new wood and glass in . Curved transom means a little different install . You need to do some research on the pool place resin before you purchase it .

 

[Jim Hawkins]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Yep. You really have no other choice but to cut the deck back about 10" or so.

Oh no, SP, say it ain't so. Once the foam is out of there it looks like there will be about 3" to 4" open to the hull. Enough, I would think, to get in there and clean and rough up the old glass. Then once the new plywood is in place I would think he could use the space left over (1"-2") to work tabs in place along the bottom of the plywood before glassing the whole transom.

I don't want RFF to cut corners and mess things up but don't you think maybe he can leave the deck alone?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

It doesn't look like there's enough room to work tabbing from the bottom of the transom out onto the bottom of the hull thru this gap (after foam is removed):

Particularly not after it gets even narrower once the 1.5" plywood transom is installed.

 

[sphelps]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Not sure what the minimum length is for tabbing in the hull on a transom rebuild . You want it as strong as you can make it . The downward thrust of the motor is quite a bit at wot . I am not an expert but I would think at least 6 to 8" or even a bit more . Each layer will extend about 2" further than the one before . Your gunna have to patch the deck anyway so may as well cut it back far enough to do the work .This patch will be under the splash so it will help hide it some .
I have never done a wood transom . It has a curve to it so that adds a little more difficulty . You also need enough room to slide it up under the gunwales at the corners. You could loosen the cap like I did to gain access .
3 layers of 1/2" glued in one piece at a time I think would be the best way to maintain the curve . Maybe a set of somewhat modified WOG clamps would help keep it's shape . If you just glue in and clamp I think the top of the transom would flatten out from the force of the ply .
This is just my uneducated transom rookie guess . :facepalm:

 

[Jim Hawkins]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

I stand corrected then. I had not imagined the tabbing to be more than 1 layer, 6" wide, 3" on the hull and 3" on the transom, but I suppose the correct way is overlapping layers.

Where my transom meets the deck it is 53 1/2 " wide and has a 2" curve in it. I have seldom seen plywood that is not a little warped and I imagine it would be possible using a straight edge and ruler to find a piece with very close to the right curve then it would only need a little clamping here and there to maintain the correct curve

RFF, WOG clamps I believe means this,

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

for curved transoms I'd recommend using 4 layers of 3/8 plywood and gluing them in separately. You'll get a much better fit that way. Take a bit more time but I think it's worth it. After the second layer is installed you can use screws to do the final two layers all at the same time. I'd also recommend using epoxy for laminating the layers. It's the strongest glue you can use. The first layer would go in as all others, using PB and the WOG clamps. You might need 6 clamps depending on the overall width of the transom. If it's not over 70" wide 5 should get the job done.

 

[sphelps]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Yep, the 3/8" would probably bend much better than the 1/2".

 

[redfishingfun]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Hey guys! Sorry I haven't responded in a timely manner. My back went out and was down for three days......recovered from that and a really nasty cold hit. I ain't complaining...just explaining. I also want you to know I appreciate your replies and help. Rookie question, what is tabbing? And can you send me a picture? I also need to know why I need to cut the deck back any more. I am thinking this has something to do with the tab thing.

 

[redfishingfun]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

for curved transoms I'd recommend using 4 layers of 3/8 plywood and gluing them in separately. You'll get a much better fit that way. Take a bit more time but I think it's worth it. After the second layer is installed you can use screws to do the final two layers all at the same time. I'd also recommend using epoxy for laminating the layers. It's the strongest glue you can use. The first layer would go in as all others, using PB and the WOG clamps. You might need 6 clamps depending on the overall width of the transom. If it's not over 70" wide 5 should get the job done.

Wood, When you say I can use screws on the last two layers are you saying I will not need to use the WOG clamps? Or would I use them and screws? The epoxy is the way I will go. I will need to glass them as well right? Could you send me a PB recipe? I'll measure the transom tomorrow.

 

[sphelps]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Sorry about your back. I know your pain. LOL ! Here is my take and hopefully Woody will correct me if needed . You have more curing time with epoxy so I'm thinking you might could put all layers in at one time . Apply pb epoxy to first layer and place temp screws thru outside skin to pull center tight . 2 screws dead center just to start . Pb next layer pulling tight with a little longer screw . Same step with remaining layers. Then place WOG clamp in the center and work the rest of clamps outward to the edge . Then take the screws out and let cure . An extra set of hands would really help .
Tabbing is just turning layer of class out onto the hull at the inside corner of the transom.

 

[greenbush future]

Re: MFG 1964 restoration/transom work

Tabbing is the way you will secure the new transom wood to the sides of your boat with fiberglass strips, after it (transom) is installed and glued to the back of the boat. You also use (Tabbing)to secure your floor to to the sides of your boat after you install it It will tie all these angles together making your boat solid. I'm sure there are examples of tabbing on many of the fiberglass restorations, just look through some of the completed glass restores in that section of the website.