MILKSHAKE - water in engine oil, where to start?

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tcgravy

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Re: MILKSHAKE - water in engine oil, where to start?

Engine is all but put back together. Still need to put the manifolds/risers on and then re-adjust the timing (back to correct) and then she'll be ready. Probably need another oil change or 2 as well.

Question - could only find the flappers at a mercruiser dealer, and they're $48 each. Seems a little steep, anyone know of a decent place to get them elsewhere?
 

bamadave

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Re: MILKSHAKE - water in engine oil, where to start?

Did you have the head reworked?
 
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Re: MILKSHAKE - water in engine oil, where to start?

yeah same engine same problem crack in exh valve seat on #3 water in #3 ordered new heads, haven't got them yet let you know how it turns out. but i had a lot of water in the whole left bank after it sat overnight maybe valve was open? but heads were definately worn at lower coolant passages.
 

Squid Billy

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Re: MILKSHAKE - water in engine oil, where to start?

Did you have the head reworked?
I don't think there was enough time, 4 days and 1 of them were the weekend (21st - 25th), not counting the day to take it off and the day to put them on, unless he has a very lonely machine shop there. :p
 

tcgravy

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Re: MILKSHAKE - water in engine oil, where to start?

No reworking of the head. With finding the head gasket problem and the exhaust flapper problem we decided it would be best to fix the observed problems and see what happens. In the concern for time and money it was the best way to go.

Everything is back together, and after a couple of oil changes the milkshake is gone and oil looks good. Engine has ran for probably an hour now with no water or problems, and she is running better than ever. Hopefully a trip to the lake this weekend will confirm no problems and we'll be out of the woods without a major engine problem.


Thanks everybody for all the help.....made the job a whole lot easier for an amateur motor guy. I'll keep ya posted.
 

tcgravy

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Re: MILKSHAKE - water in engine oil, where to start?

Have had the boat out a couple more times...everything seems to be fine. Thanks a lot for all the help guys.


One problem remains - low compression on cylinder #5. it seems to be around 80-90 psi. We have tried putting ATF into the plug hole multiple times - this does not seem to change compression at all. If I am correct this would point to valves, correct?

Have taken rocker cover off a couple of times, valves appear to be working (to the naked eye). Not really sure how to check em......have tried adjusting valve lash on that cylinder, does not bring compression up.

Any ideas here?
 

Maclin

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Re: MILKSHAKE - water in engine oil, where to start?

A cylinder leakdown test gauge/tool would help you figure out if it is valves or rings/piston.

Turn the engine until you are sure the offending cylinder is well into the down part of the power stroke but not bottomed out. Screw in a leakdown test gauge into the sparkplug hole, it will have an air fitting as well as a psi gauge. Hook the air up and listen for the leaking air. If you hear it thru the carb/intake then it is probably an intake valve or valvetrain issue, noises from the exhaust then same thing but exhaust valve issue. If you hear it in the crankcase then it is rings/piston.
 

tcgravy

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Re: MILKSHAKE - water in engine oil, where to start?

Yeah...would have done a leak down test in the first place if I had the tester. But I guess maybe its time to invest in a leak down tester and an air compressor. Thanks...

any ideas sans leakdown test?
 

Maclin

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Re: MILKSHAKE - water in engine oil, where to start?

If you crank it with the coil wire off so it won't start then you can listen for hissing from the intake thru the carb, but it is hard to hear anything from the exhaust manifold or crankcase. Maybe you can with a stethoscope. But you will not be able to determine what cylinder it is that way. Just do the leakdown test, it tells all.
 

tcgravy

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Re: MILKSHAKE - water in engine oil, where to start?

Leak down test had a good amount of air coming out of the carb, revealing a bad intake valve.

Lifter/rocker seem to be fine, going to need another head removal to fix this problem. Probably not going to get fixed until summer is over, but at least the problem is somewhat located.

Thanks for all the help guys.

Tony
 
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