Missing rear keel, 1985 Skeeter Starfire... rebuilable?

[trailking82]

In my intro post a few weeks ago i eluded to rebuilding/restro an old Skeeter Wrangler. Well as luck would have it i ran across another boat, a Skeeter Starfire 175 about 6 years younger. The layout is exactly what i want, the issues are the same as the Wrangler.. Rotten transon, deck and stringers. However in addition to those the keel was ripped from the rear of the boat. I am assuming at some point there was damage and was "repaired". The repair gave way and left a large hole in the bottom. I am assuming this is repairable... Its fiberglass after all. I am not sure exactly how to do it, in my mind i have thought of many ways, but what seems logical is making a mold attaching it and start glassing it each layer larger than the first. I know this will be labor intensive and ultimately expensive but i am ok with it as i have no deadline to meet on the rebuild. Considering the hull will be gutted prior to the start does this seem possible, or should i steer away and continue on the wrangler rebuild? Attached are some pictures.

 

[trailking82]

 

[trailking82]

 

[Woodonglass]

What's your experience level with fiberglassing? As you say, it's Fiberglass and doable, but... you really need to KNOW what you're doing. It won't be all that expensive to do the repair, but it will be tedious and involved.

 

[trailking82]

I have some experience.. I did the stringer and deck replacement on my runabout. Just have never done anything on this level. I am confident i could do it with some helpful guidance though. I figure alot of grinding and glassing right?

 

[Woodonglass]

It's not so much the grinding as it is forming up the bottom to get the shape right so the hull will perform properly when under power. It''s got to be in line with the rest of the hull and flat so the water will flow correctly. It's not that hard to do but you'll prolly need an extra set of hands and some patience and attention to detail to get it right. It's gotta be done from the inside and outside to get it right. And you'll be using epoxy with 17 oz biax fabric. Prolly about 4 layers or more. You'll need some Kitchen counter top type laminate to use for making the "Mold" too!!!

 

[trailking82]

Thanks for the advice WoG, i was really hoping i would get your input on this. The countertop material was one i had in mind the other was foam sculpted to the lines of the boat. The issue i was having with the foam route was getting it protected from the actual layup, not sure if a mold release would have been suitable or compatible. I have been reading on oops hull extension thread, i assume i should tackle this the same way he did?

As far as an inside/outside approach do you recommend inside first then flipping and grinding down and out for a couple additional layers on the outside?

If i use epoxy this will be my first time using that type of resin, it had crossed my mind. What reasoning behind it, would i also have to continue the rest of the rebuild (stringers, deck and transom) in epoxy? In the event this is a Kevlar hull do i even have the option of polyester?

Again thanks for your help!

 

[Woodonglass]

I'm pretty sure it's NOT a kevlar hull. I've been thinking about this and I'm thinking I'd prolly go with Vinylester on this. It's plenty strong and a really good adhesive too. Using 1708 will add more bulk to the layup as well. Kinda the best of both worlds. That way you could use the less expensive Poly on the rest of the build and also use Gelcoat if you want. You could use a foam mold but I'm thinking you'll be going from the inside first and the laminate taped and tacked on the outside will be the best method. I could be wrong but it is the way I'd approach it until proven wrong. I wish OOPS was still around He'd LOVE this project. Right up his alley!!!

 

[trailking82]

Thanks again WoG, the laminate is sounding like the best way that would give easier setup. I too dont think that it is Kevlar but i know some where offered.. Do you know of any way to tell just by looking at it?

 

[Woodonglass]

No, but when you start gringing you'll find out soon enuf. Most of the Kevlar I've seen is Either Blue, Black or yellow. If you grind and find that color you'll know.

 

[trailking82]

Well figure this thread is as good as it will get to post updates here.

Finally started getting into the tear down.. Got the "paper work" all straight. I got the rub rail removed, rivets drilled out, and started removing the layers of plywood "flooring". This makes little sense to me why people continue laying plywood over already rotten wood.

 

[trailking82]

As I began pulling up layers of plywood I got under a good layer and began pulling, while walking forward my foot fell lower than the deck that I was standing on. I was a little puzzled at first then noticed that the original deck, some of the stringers and the floatation foam was removed. At this point I only thought it was under the area I had lifted up, and assuming it was to "repair" the earlier noted damage. I was mostly correct except the entire deck, stringers and foam was removed from the midship of the boat. The only original deck and stringers/foam left is just infront of the cockpit seating and helm area, and under the rear casting deck. The "repairs" are now visible and this is a prime example of bad repairs and why you must use fiberglass fabric with polyester resin. It is obvious what has happened, the glass repairs that were made I was easily able to peel off the hull, where just resin was placed has completely broken up. Polyester resin alone is very brittle this makes a good example as to why you need the fiber for reenforcing, and why sanding and surface prep are so important. I also found alot of Bondo too in areas, and a ton of deck screws of course.

Seeing what I found, and the damage in the rear all makes sense now as to how it happened, what is obvious is how lucky the previous owner is to be alive when it all broke loose. The story he gave me was that he was going to a spot on the lake running around 60 mph, going around a turn when the boat began to skip. He didn't think much of it until he stopped to fish and noticed water coming in the drain, he then beached it, called his friend who came over. By the time his friend got there the boat was about 2/3 submerged, turned on his bilge got it drained and had his friend "guide" him back to the ramp, he said the boat was almost vertical the entire way back.