Missing Something?

[Lawns570]

1993

 

[Lawns570]

1993 Johnson 115hp. Sorry for the photo. I just got this boat, and it has been sitting for 3-4 years. Starts right up and idles fine. However when I push the throttle forward and then release it, the long screw does not return to where it should be. By the "long screw" I believe I am talking about the idle adjustment screw. It should return about a 1/4-1/2 back and rest on the plate where my finger is resting. It doesn't return all the way back and thus it causes the engine to idle fast? Should there be a spring somewhere to pull it back to that plate or is there some other adjustment? I don't see any spring anywhere and can't find a good parts diagram of this.

 

[Grub54891]

Disconnect the throttle cable. See if it drops in to place that way first.

 

[Lawns570]

whats the easiest way to do that.. take the nut off on the actuator? The black slide thing at the bottom?

 

[Lawns570]

I did have the linkage out of it's place today. I took both carbs off to clean and had to move those cables around to get the piece in front of the carbs out.

 

[Grub54891]

The cable goes through the lower cowl, follow it in to where it attaches and remove it from there. If you take the linkage off when removing the carb, you must do a sync and link to make it correct.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

One other thing to check could be the wiring harness connected to the timer base. As the throttle pushes open the timer base advances the timing. I have seen the plastic tube that protects the wire harness that comes out of the timer base get hard from age and not let the linkage return to the idle stop. I have had to carefully cut that hard plastic off and replace it with a flexible spiral wrap ensuring the ends are secured with small tie wraps. Ensure that harness is not binding anywhere.

 

[Lawns570]

The cable goes through the lower cowl, follow it in to where it attaches and remove it from there. If you take the linkage off when removing the carb, you must do a sync and link to make it correct.

I did not take the linkage off. It has a holder down at the bottom at the cowl. I unbolted it as the hodler is part of the cover in front of the carbs.

 

[Lawns570]

One other thing to check could be the wiring harness connected to the timer base. As the throttle pushes open the timer base advances the timing. I have seen the plastic tube that protects the wire harness that comes out of the timer base get hard from age and not let the linkage return to the idle stop. I have had to carefully cut that hard plastic off and replace it with a flexible spiral wrap ensuring the ends are secured with small tie wraps. Ensure that harness is not binding anywhere.

Thats a good idea. I will check out the wiring harness.

 

[Lawns570]

Anybody else? Any info on what would cause this to not fully retract

 

[Rapio]

As Baylinerchuck says, the plastic wrap on the harness gets brittle and doesn't allow the timer base to return. Also the timer base gets gooped up and can be binding up. I have experienced both. For a gooped up timing plate you will probably have to remove the flywheel. Best advise: buy an authentic or copy of the original service manual.

 

[F_R]

Remove the throttle cable and get the motor working properly first. Then when you are satisfied with that, reinstall and adjust the cable to fit the motor. Always adjust the controls to fit the motor, never adjust the motor to fit the controls.

 

[Fed]

First make sure the roller hasn't shed its outer skin.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OMC-0432572-0432572-ROLLER-SLEEVE-AY-/161842942522

Then check the throttle lever operation & idle setting while disconnected from the control cable.

Then rig your throttle cable like this.


There's no return springs for the timing advance, it relies on the throttle lever cam and the roller to pull the idle adjustment screw back to the stop.

Let us know the end result, good luck.