more from tashasdaddy

[tashasdaddy]

don, just read your post to daytonadan, my port batwing had rust in #5 port. do i still put this back on to try to get the crud out. when fishing this am with my sister. its about 65 degrees.

 

[Don S]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

Yes, just don't let it idle (Below around 1500 rpm) for any amount of time, then when you shut it off, pull the hose off the bottom of the manifold to drain the water out that may start accumulating in that port. Then (if you still suspect water) start the engine without water for about 5 seconds to dry any water out of the cylinder and #5 port<br /><br />This is assuming you don't have all the part at hand to fix it right.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

daytonadan, the idea of the long bolts was great. i use the bolts for the 4" riser pulled in 3 holes was able to remove the gasket i screw up and slip the new one in 1 bolt at a time less than 10 minutes and no hernia. now for the retest.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

crap!! started 1st try rpm fluctuate a little choke cut out idled to 750 moved it up to 1500. then it started SHOOTING very watery goo out the starboard vent hose, i had pulled it off the flame arrester so it wouldn't go in the carb. shot over the gunnel. pumped the dipstick finally, almost pure clear water with a look of water down skim milk.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

tried it again dry, started 1st try. then we water, repumped oil stick, same thin skim milk. it runs to good. where is the water coming from. didn't find water in #5, could it be a head gasket on starboard ,as that is the side shooing the water 3 times as much as port. or do i have a crack head or block. it runs too good. what is the best to clean this goo?, can't see what i'm working on. bilge is the pits, thank god i have a stepped bilge.

 

[shelikesit]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

Shoot tashasdaddy, you sure we didn't buy from the same sales lot??? Did your salesman look like he needed his neck rung too???? Seems like we have the same deal going on.................<br /><br />Marvel mystery oil on the goo. Just found that out to clean my own vanilla mess. Using that and a couple oil changes should clear it up. The local service shop told me that. But...... make sure the water problem is fixed before attempting with the goo.<br /><br />From my opinion, stay away from seafoam in the oil.<br /><br />Next is the water problem of yours. Pull the head you may just find gaps between cylinders in the gasket like me.<br /><br />From what I read in the merc manual the block is the last to go.......... If you fixed your manifolds and still have water, head to the heads next.<br /><br />Hope it helps, so far it's working for me....... with ya'lls help of course

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

dan. it sound like we have twins, i'm a little better off because mine was given to me. right now i've got baby diarehia all over my engine. hay dan misery loves company. lets just meet at the rest stop on I-95, set up a tent and work on both boats, we're both working alone.

 

[Don S]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

Did you ever pressure check the cooling system?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

search isn't working, can't find it in manual. i need a clue on how to do it.

 

[shelikesit]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

I'm with you on meeting in the middle. Actually I'm thinking about taking January off entirely.<br /><br />I'm not too deep in my boat with $$$ also. I mostly work online so I took the funds from one sale and turned around and bought the boat with it. In all reality the craft cost me $3000 but I only had 7 bucks in what I sold. <br /><br />Nothing comes free or easy in the boat world, now does it I'd say it's safe to say we're both paying dearly for it now.

 

[Don S]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

The manuals are written for mechanics, not DIYers.<br />You have to figure it out yourself by understanding how the system works.<br />Basically, the only way for water to get out is to go to the manifolds, the only way in is from the transom shield water inlet hose.<br />Here is a picture of your engine. Pull the hoses off A and B and plug the thermostat housing. (a hose between A and B on the Tstat housing will work.<br />Second adapt an air supply of about 15 psi to hose C.<br />Take the spark plugs out so you can hear if it's going into a cylinder also and pressureize it. It should hold 15 psi for ever if there aren't any leaks. <br />Since you know you have a leak, drain the cooling system. Pressureize it and start listening to see if you can hear where it coming from. <br /><br /><br />

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

will try tomorrow, may be wednesday. thanks

 

[shelikesit]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

I've only seen one boat motor up close and personal in my whole life......... and it looked almost identical to what that picture shows. Except you had to take the valve covers off to see the soup.<br /><br />Sorry to say that motor belongs to me. The total problem in a nutt shell-<br /><br />A bad manifold on the port side backwashed water into the tops of my cylinders. Water doesn't fire so the compression stroke by doing it's job pushed that water somwhere. Right through my head gasket.........<br /><br />Personally I wouldn't stop until you can see the tops of your pistons tashasdaddy, that's right about the time your going to see where your problem is coming from, good chance there's a gap in one of your head gaskets somewhere.<br /><br />Thanks for the cooling sytem compression test procedure Dons S ! That's appreciated a lot.

 

[Don S]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

You are not going to fill an engine crankcase full of water by running it on muffs with a manifold leak. Somewhere in that engine water is going directly into the crankcase. As soon as it gets to the crankshaft, between the crank hitting the mess and the oil pump making oil and water look like one item (MILKY Uck) is why the oil is milky.<br />Now to get there, either the head gasket is blown between a water, oil, and cylinder passage, or the block is cracked. There is just no way for water to get into the oil past the rings as fast as it is happening.<br />Do the cooling system pressure test, but likely you aren't going to get any concrete evidence indicating where the leak is.<br />Most likely you will have to pull the heads and start looking.

 

[Reel Poor]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

Before you pull the head/heads, do a compression test. A compression test will tell you if they're is a problem in the cylinders, such as daytonadan had. If the compression is good it could be the intake manifold gasket leaking around the water jackets letting the crankcase fill with water. This problem would not affect the way the engine runs. May be as simple as intake manifold gasket change.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

don not questioning you, but if i pressurize the C hose all i will is blow air out the pick up. do i remove D hose and pressurize it, or do i pressurize the c fitting going into the thermostat? just verifying before i do it twice.

 

[Don S]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

That hose has 2 ends, and you are trying to pressurize the engine...... Think about what you are trying to accomplish, not just blindly following steps.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

thank you thought i was right, just don't want to blow anything else up. got exhaust hoses rerouted. need to get a couple of thing to complete.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

tested cooling system, is still holding pressure, turn engine over and listened even with a stethascope hear nothing

 

[Don S]

Re: more from tashasdaddy

????????????????????????????????? <br /><br />I for one can not figure out how you can get that much water in the engine oil that fast through the exhaust.<br />Since you have all the plugs out, do a compression test. No need to run it first, cold will be fine.