Motor Oil

BillP

Captain
Joined
Aug 10, 2002
Messages
3,290
Re: Motor Oil

Thanks for the info OilDoc. I always run the mfgs suggested specs and don't worry. Currently running the 25-40 merc oil.
 

LubeDude

Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
6,945
Re: Motor Oil

Originally posted by Dunaruna:<br /> "In about another 20 posts, it should start getting heated and then the name calling will start........AGAIN."<br /> <br />36 posts so far and still no heated tempers, all involved deserve a round of applause IMO.<br /><br />Aldo
:p :p And it aint gonna happen either! :p :p <br /><br />Rodbolts correct IMHO, I have never seen an oil related failure either, Oil starvation, but never an actual failure. I have however seen engines wear patterns be better with certain oils. Especially with 2 cycles.<br /><br />If you have a mechanical oil preasure guage you can see a difference in oils as to how they carry oil preasure under load and different tempuratures, but even that isnt necasarily an indication of how well they are actually lubricating.<br /><br />Actually the WallMart oils are a decent oil, there are better of course, but for the average engine that gets its oil changed regularly it will do just fine. Maintenance is in fact the key to engine longevity. There diesel oil is a bit weak though.<br /><br />Its just oil.
 

olbuddyjack

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 23, 2003
Messages
318
Re: Motor Oil

Ok, in my opinion I think I have seen an oil related failure. It was in an automaotive application though, not marine. 95 Taurus, 76k miles, fleet service. The service records indicate the oil was changed regularly between 3000 and 4000 miles with the recomended 5w-30. Had a slight knocking noise almost like a rod bearing. Checked the oil psi, 30 at idle(car equiped with guage, light and oil cooler), slight change accelerating, decelerating, nothing abnormal. Checked belts, loose exaust, etc. All good. Drove it some more and the knock got worse. Finally dropped the pan and one of the rod bearings is laying in the pan. Only one actually spun but all the rest including the mains were wiped to the copper. All this with excelent oil psi and the original pump! I rebulit the motor, new crank, rod, etc. but never found any reason for the bearing failure other than lack of lubrication. I even tore the old oil pump apart looking for answers. The only thing I could figure was the oil. Anyway its back on the road again with a full pan of 10w-40.
 

Stings

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
40
Re: Motor Oil

ok i think i have it all figured out. ill add one quart of each type of oil as mentioned above. that will cover all the bases. if my engine wont handle that many quarts then ill make some kinda extra oil reservoir so i dont miss any :D
 

trog100

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 1, 2004
Messages
751
Re: Motor Oil

"If you have a mechanical oil preasure guage you can see a difference in oils as to how they carry oil preasure under load and different tempuratures"<br /><br />that one is probably at the root of my fears about oil thinning too much under hard use and high temps.. that and seeing oil pressure lights flickering on and off at a slow idle after a good hard thrash.. he he<br /><br />course when i was young and foolish and couldnt drive anywhere at less than full throttle with the constant fear of big-end bearings running on me as the norm.. might play a part.. he he he<br /><br />trog100<br /><br />ps.. course all my early life knackered big-end problems might be considered "oil failures".. he he he
 

craze1cars

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Dec 26, 2004
Messages
1,822
Re: Motor Oil

Good God...I turn my back to go boating for one minute and come back to this...<br /><br />AGAIN.
 

LubeDude

Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
6,945
Re: Motor Oil

Originally posted by olbuddyjack:<br /> Ok, in my opinion I think I have seen an oil related failure.
I still think that it probably wasnt the oil.<br /><br />Several companies have had some engine failures with fresh engines. I more than likely will get thrashed for saying this, but they have attributed this to improper priming of new engines and the lack of some of the additives in the new oils, thus, the break in oils are now generally loaded with friction modifiers. (Can I prove this)? Not likely. So with than said, the damage was likely done at the initial start up of the engine and then just progresivly got worse.
 

LubeDude

Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
6,945
Re: Motor Oil

Originally posted by rodbolt:<br /> yesterday was a day of idiots. warm weather seems to thaw them out :)
Just send them here.<br /><br /> edit
 

lakelivin

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Aug 19, 2004
Messages
1,172
Re: Motor Oil

Here are two questions that beg conjecture; I'm hoping they won't trigger opinions to the point that things start to slip, but if so, that's usually entertaining anyways...<br /><br />'89 4.3l cobra. Since I live in northern NC I tend to not winterize my boat (except for draining the water if there's any chance of a freeze) and running it occasionally throughout the winter. I make sure it doesn't sit for more than 3 or 4 weeks without running it.<br /><br />Given that I wanna have access to the boat throughout the year here are some of my thought/ questions. First off, this will be the first time I change the oil & outdrive fluid in the fall instead of the spring (learned the benefits of that from these forums). <br /><br />Specs call for 30w oil for temps >32F, 20w for 0-32F. I'll be running the boat occasionally in colder weather (probably 30-50F), but it also gets hotter here than many places during parts of the summer (air temps can get into high 90's & the water temp for the lake I live on can get up into the mid 90's). I'm thinking I might benefit from a multiweight oil to help with startup on some of those cooler days, and that a 'heavier weight' protection might be beneficial on those very hot days. <br /><br />I don't really want to change the oil twice a year as I put relatively few hours on the boat overall, very few during the winter. <br /><br />Say I went with a high quality 20-50. Seems like I would benefit during colder starts winter months. Also seems like the 'heavier weight range' might be helpful doe to the higher than normal air/ water temps in the summer.<br /><br />So much for possible benefits. I'm aware of the potential for polymer shear under heavy conditions with a multi-weight. But even if that happened, any guesses as to approximately what weight a 20-50 multi would 'settle' near if polymer shear should occur? Would it be near the high end, low end, or somewhere in the middle? <br /><br />If in the middle, seems like there would be little practical risk in using a multiweight for me anyways. First use would be during cooler weather, for very light use, presumably limiting risk of breakdown. Then into the summer months, where even if breakdown should occur, viscosity would be near recommended 30w anyways. Then new oil in the fall before it got cooler again. <br /><br />While we're at it, what about synthetic in an older engine? I saw a discussion about that on these boards, but couldn't relocate it when I tried to search. As I recall, there were questions as to the effect of a synthetic on seals & such in an older engine. I seem to recall someone saying that this was more of a problem when the synthetics first came out, & not as relevent any more, but that's just my impression (from a memory that is getting progressively worse as I age). Anyone willing to clarify that issue as well?<br /><br />Hopefully these questions won't spice things up TOO much, lol.
 

LubeDude

Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
6,945
Re: Motor Oil

Honestly, using quality 30 wieght in your application would serve you well.<br /><br />But even though a 15W-40 diesel oil isnt recommended by it seems anyone, there are lots of people using them and as you have seen in many of my posts, that is what I would recommend. (They just work well), or use a Long Life oil. Im very aware of what TheOilDoc has posted about this, so it is your choice whether to use it or not. The long life oils likely do not have the high ash content the Dello has, so if that concerns you, you might want to use one of those. It seems strange to me that when Amsoil and Pennzoil decided to get into the marine market, they came out with a 15W-40 oil even though I dont know of a marine engine manufacture that requires one. Suppose they know something we dont? There oil is marketed as 15W-40 Diesel Marine. Granted its a synthetic, and has no viscosity improvers. If you want to use a synthetic, this would be an awesome oil.<br /><br />Just to clarify why Im so Pro diesel oils:<br /><br />Diesel oils have very robust additive packages, they are great storage oils and have additives to fight acid buildup and foaming, they also have very high TBN ratings which marine oils have. The Rotella synthetic, ( I believe its a blend) Might have a lower ash content. I believe that the detergents in the diesel oils will counteract the ash problems if any. Sure thes manufactures have Marine oils, but I still believe the 15W-40 oils will work fine. Just stubborn I guess.<br /><br />As to using a 20W-50 in a 4.3, I dont think its a good Idea due to the following. I had a HO 4.3 in a 1994 astro van, it said in bold letters in the owners manual "NOT" to use 20W-50, they didnt say why.
 

LubeDude

Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
6,945
Re: Motor Oil

Edited by LD:<br /><br />Wow, what was that all about?
 
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