Motor Yr ID help pleas

[fishinspot]

I did check spark this morning and it was over 1/4" gap. I then was able to start it up quickly. Seems this engine does not like to be chocked. With no choke it starts great. Runs and idles very well. Tried several start stops and it worked well. Let it set a few hours and started right up again with no choke. Go figure. Once that was figured out I tried shifting gears. No go. I looked at shift rod connector thinking maybe I didn't get the shaft seated well and it slipped. It was indeed slipping and couldn't get it back in due to a stripped thread in rod connector so took lower unit off to fix threads. Tried shifting gears manually with lower unit off and it wouldn't shift into gear. Felt stuck somewhere. Drained lower unit oil and low and behold it was very milky. Decided to open up lower unit and it looked pretty bad. Lost seal somehow and leaked in water. I think it was due to fishing line wrapped in the gear case head and trashed the o-ring. Clutch dog was stuck on shaft. That thing wouldn't budge. Tore everything apart and looks like all the gears/shafts are good so working on cleaning everything up and then will check it all over real good and order all new seals/gaskets for lower unit. Didn't want to have to do all this but bought an old used engine so it happens. Looks like the biggest pain will be trying to remove the front dowel that holds the forward bearing in place. It was pushed down into the housing and barely sticking up. Can't grab it. Not enough dowel to get a hold of.

You guys just drill these out? What a pain!

 

[fishinspot]

I got t all the seals I need scepter for the gearcase seal that goes in the gearcase head assy right behind the prop. The local johnson dealer (and online for that matter) does not show that the gearcase assy has a removable seal that can be changed. Only shows whole gearcase assy. They say I have to buy the whole aaay for $160ish. Do any sound right to me. I've read here and other places that I can pop that rear metal cap off the assy. And replace the seal but nowhere shows the seal or a part number?? Can someone shed some light on this for me. I'd hate to put it back together hoping it doesn't leak at this seal only to tear it apart and have to spend 160.00 for the whole assy.

 

[lindy46]

Looks like late 60's they went to the head assembly with a non-replaceable seal. 18hp and 20hp share the same head. Original part number 0377112 (NLA) which had the removable seal, 0313284 (about $10), replaced by 0383757. Perhaps you could find a used original head and a new seal. Probably be cheaper than $160.00.

 

[fishinspot]

Thanks lindy. I was able to get the driveshaft seal off but the driveshaft bearing is being a pain. Tried seal puller and it just ripped the top lip off the bearing. All the roller bearings have fallen out. Now I have very thin walled bearing housing that I'm trying to get out. Maybe I'll try a large drill bit and manually try to turn it to catch the housing and remove it. So far the housing is not budging at all. Also the shifter bearing is not budging. Sprayed both with -but blaster hoping that would help. Shifter bearing I tried pushing it out from the back side with a long rod with a lip on it. Not budging. Bought some taps and now will try to tap it and thread some threaded rod through it and try to lift it out with the threads. We shall see.