Mouser Rectifier

[DamianJP]

Hey guys

When my XR4's rectifier went down J-Martin hooked me up with info to snag a Mouser 35Amp Bridge one for $3-$4. Worked like a charm.

Now I did a test on the one of my 15hp I'm working on and it's shot. Getting continuity on a test I shouldn't be getting one on.

They both have the P/N 816770, my XR4 one and the 15hp one. So since I grabbed 2 mousers when I replaced my XR4 one I wanted to know if it's safe to use it on the 15hp too.

Heres a pic of the old one in the 15hp hooked up.

If it's a green light to use the Mouser how should I hook it up?
Mouser has 4 posts Ground , Positive , 2 Sins
2 Greys to one sin post?
1 Yellow to other sin post?
1 Red to Batt?
1 Black to ground?



Thank You,
DamianJP

 

[j_martin]

Re: Mouser Rectifier

No problem. With a MTBF (mean time between failures) of 10,000 hours at rated load, it should last a million hours or so.

The current rating on a rectifier is a maximum rating. Anything under that is good. It doesn't make sense to use a 35 amp diode in a 1 amp circuit because of cost and size, but it wouldn't hurt anything.

2 Greys to one sin post? (AC ~)
1 Yellow to other sin post? (AC ~)
1 Red to Batt? ( + )
1 Black to ground? ( - )


John

 

[DamianJP]

Re: Mouser Rectifier

Hey J whats up

So you mean the system on the 15hp is only 1 Amp? Cool that solve that mystery Thank You once again.

I guess the rectifier is supposed to be durable. I did a resistance test on the Stator , Trigger , Alternator. Stator and Trigger passed the test.

But the Alternator was supposed to give me a reading of ...

Between Yellow and Grey 0.65 (Reading might resemble a short because of the windings is generally less than 1 Ohm)
It gave me a 79k-80k reading.

Yellow or Grey was supposed to give me a No Continuity reading
It gave a reading from 5 - 12 reading and bouncing around.

Do you think the alternator is shot and it took out the rectifier? I was reading in the manual that if your use this motor not hooked up to a battery you should disconnect the grey and yellow lead from alternator at the rectifier end and tape them. I'm wondering if the PO didn't do this and fried the Alternator and rectifier.


Thanks again,
DamianJP

 

[j_martin]

Re: Mouser Rectifier

The stock rectifier is only good for about 50V. The stator (alternator) will yield up to about 90V unless it's loaded, ie through a rectifier to a good battery. So if you disconnect the battery, the back voltage rating for the rectifier would be exceeded. Bad connections are usually what takes out the rectifier. There really is no way for a bad alternator to wreck the rectifier.

That, by the way, is why I specify that you get a bridge rectifier with at least a 200V PRV (peak reverse voltage) rating. I can't be hurt by an accidental open circuit.

 

[DamianJP]

Re: Mouser Rectifier

Thanks J

Very informative

Can a bad rectifier wreck a alternator?

DamianJP

 

[j_martin]

Re: Mouser Rectifier

Thanks J

Very informative

Can a bad rectifier wreck a alternator?

DamianJP

Possible, but not likely. They are current limited by the magnetic design.

 

[DamianJP]

Re: Mouser Rectifier

Well

I took the 1993 15hp out for a spin the other day. Scooted a 13ft Jon boat very nice. But the new mouser rectifier wasn't charging the battery. Whats my next move, the alternator?

DamianJP

 

[j_martin]

Re: Mouser Rectifier

Well

I took the 1993 15hp out for a spin the other day. Scooted a 13ft Jon boat very nice. But the new mouser rectifier wasn't charging the battery. Whats my next move, the alternator?

DamianJP

Sorry, I didn't read your earlier posts carefully. It looks like the stator is bad.

 

[DamianJP]

Re: Mouser Rectifier

Hey J

Well I was under the impression that when the stator is bad you get crappy/intermittent sparks and generally crappy running conditions. The motor is idling like a clock, and the WOT seems what it should be. Really moving the 13ft Jon boat.

Now that I see the schematics , It seems I have 2 Stator assemblies. The one with the ring connectors is what I have been calling the alternator.

PART 1
http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/parts/496_70.cfm


PART 31 ( The one that was connected to the older style rectifier with ring connectors.)
http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/parts/496_220.cfm


Is it possible that the PART 1 stator is what controls and feeds the "Juice" for the spark signal.
And PART 31 stator is what collects the "Juice" and feeds it to the rectifier to handle the charging?

Making it so that motor runs fine but still have charging issues?

Thanks again,
DamianJP

 

[achris]

Re: Mouser Rectifier

....Is it possible that the PART 1 stator is what controls and feeds the "Juice" for the spark signal.
And PART 31 stator is what collects the "Juice" and feeds it to the rectifier to handle the charging?

Making it so that motor runs fine but still have charging issues?...

Got it in one....

 

[444]

Re: Mouser Rectifier

Yes, two seperate stators. One is for igniton, one is for charging system/tachometer. On m y 84 merc 90hp i-6 I think the charging stator must have went because I have killed two brand new rectifiers right out of the box. Once the connected rectifier dies, it causes the engine to run badly until I disconnected it and ran without a charging system.

 

[j_martin]

Re: Mouser Rectifier

Hey J

Well I was under the impression that when the stator is bad you get crappy/intermittent sparks and generally crappy running conditions. The motor is idling like a clock, and the WOT seems what it should be. Really moving the 13ft Jon boat.

Now that I see the schematics , It seems I have 2 Stator assemblies. The one with the ring connectors is what I have been calling the alternator.

PART 1
http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/parts/496_70.cfm


PART 31 ( The one that was connected to the older style rectifier with ring connectors.)
http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/parts/496_220.cfm


Is it possible that the PART 1 stator is what controls and feeds the "Juice" for the spark signal.
And PART 31 stator is what collects the "Juice" and feeds it to the rectifier to handle the charging?

Making it so that motor runs fine but still have charging issues?

Thanks again,
DamianJP

What is your resistance readings across the rings on part 31? Ring to ring, and 1 ring to ground.

I've been running from general knowledge. On some engines the alternator is optional, and on some the alternator and charge coils are built into the stator. On almost all outboards the coils are stationary , thus called stators.

Man are they proud of that part.

 

[j_martin]

Re: Mouser Rectifier

Yes, two seperate stators. One is for igniton, one is for charging system/tachometer. On m y 84 merc 90hp i-6 I think the charging stator must have went because I have killed two brand new rectifiers right out of the box. Once the connected rectifier dies, it causes the engine to run badly until I disconnected it and ran without a charging system.

The stator is probably fine. The rectifiers succumbed to wrong wiring. The stator can put out up to about 90V open circuit. The stock rectifier has about a 50V PIV (Peak Inverse Voltage) rating. As long as the output is wired to ground (mounting) and the battery, that rating is not exceeded. If either the ground or battery connection is missing, it'll pop in an instant. If the battery connection goes through an ingnition switch, it'll pop as the engine is spinning down when you shut it off.

I can't think of a way for a stator to fail in a way to produce excess voltage or current. Any failure mode would cause less of both.