My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

[stackz]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

finally got some money to buy seats. even with going with the cheap walmart stuff, they were expensive...

very simple folding seats. I cant make myself buy anything more expensive. I'm also going to be doing a middle cooler seat as well.

I wanted them to swivel so I went the uber cheap way. 7" wally world pedestals that will be bolted to the floor and then wally world swivels that I'll bolt to them and to the seats. simple, cheap, effective.

 

[stackz]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

ok, got a lot done this past weekend. I'm proud of myself lol. didnt think I'd get this much done but once I got started, I just kept on going and going.

I got the stereo installed. yes, this is an automotive stereo and speakers but they were free to me and right now free is the perfect price. once they rust out, I'll get marine specific components though. sounds great by the way!

then I carpeted the backside of the entryway into the front of the boat. it was carpeted orginally and I guess its because its raw fiberglass and raw fiberglass + bare feet = toes full of fiberglass lol. sorry they are bad shots but the best I could do.

before:

after:

 

[stackz]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

next on the list was cleaning the footwell in the bow area and redoing the hard flooring that was down there.

first (and not pictured) was cutting and covering a new support board for directly under the bow cap area. so much fun using crowbars to lift up on the cap to squeeze the board back under there.

then I went to redoing the top cover parts. I used the old pieces as templates and cut them out and then covered with carpet. drilled guide holes and then put them in place with new stainless hardware. I think it looks pretty darn good!

after this I tackled the two side seats in the bow. the starboard had long since turned to goo but thankfully the port side was relatively intact. I would have never known about the 3 smaller parts to keep the seat from breaking the hinge without that seat being intact...nor about the two vent holes in the middle.

I pulled it apart and used it for a template and built the seat bottoms. thank god it was a 90* day as both cushions were sopping wet and I had to let them dry in the sun before assembling the seats. Also, both hinges were corroded tight. used some pliers and penetrating oil to work them free. then I used my bench grinder with a wire wheel attached to clean them up, pat them dry after adding more oil, and then stapled them all together and installed. Going to try to find some breathable black marine vinyl for backings (like the factory had) to hide the stapling, etc.

I'm very happy with them though!

 

[stackz]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

I would have redone the very front cushion to match but I cant figure out how I'm going to actually get to the bolts from underneath. my arms arent long enough and its too tight to pull out the stereo panel and crawl up in there to get at them. I'll figure something out though.

I saved my last strip of vinyl for that cushion and at this point I was completely out of vinyl and had several beers so no trip to the fabric shop for me!

instead, I vacuumed out the cockpit and then just re-installed the old bow walkway pads temporarily (they will need to be redone to match and because they both have some rot on the bottoms of them).

then I bolted the seats together, positioned them where I wanted and bolted them to the floor. yay, front seats again!

I kept the cutout from when I cut the ski locker out and had some extra carpet laying around so I stapled it together and am trying to decide if I want to make it into an in-floor cooler. hmm decisions, decisions...

why would I do this if I am going to have a cooler seat in the boat? well I want to keep my drinks separated from my raw meat. mainly because I got the magma grill I found in the trash working! I still cant believe someone threw out a $200+ grill. I had to get a nut/bolt for one of the hinges, a new grate for it, a wingnut for the holding arm, and a new regulator but the parts total was only $42 for everything and it fires right up and works perfect now.

I do need to figure out a better mounting arm setup though as I dont like the factory one. it puts way too much weight on the arm and it sags (probably why the regulator was missing, if I had to bet it fell in a river somewhere lol).

I got the rear transom cover mostly made as well but ran out of trim adhesive for the lower rod portion and I dont want to post half done pics as it just looks goofy right now but after that, I'm pretty much done on the interior.

After that, its time to finish adjusting the trailer, get the hole in the hull fixed, crank it up to test the gauges, and then get on the water and enjoy it again finally!

 

[stackz]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

been sitting on the boat for the past two months due to having other house projects I needed to get done (including pressure washing the house as you will see in the pics haha). decided its time to get back at the boat so I'll be getting some stuff done this weekend. saw the huge clearance sale on bimini tops here on iboats and measured the boat. I wanted one tall enough where I could walk around in the boat without hitting my head. The top I got clears my head by about 5" and when folded down, sits right along the backside of the boat. I wanted silver but by the time I got my measurements, they were sold out so blue had to do!

boat measured 68" across where I wanted to mount and I got 46" tall and 5' long. I was hoping to get one that stays up when stowed but this will do until I can get separate rear supports for it (thats possible right?)

anyway, I dont think it looks bad. didnt realize how dirty the boat has gotten on the inside considering I've had it under a tarp the whole time...

 

[stackz]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

ok, so I wanted to upgrade my top from having straps front/back but didnt want to pay $45+ for a pair of aluminum tubes and $2 fittings.

enter, my old top frame.

so it has most of the fittings (but I broke an eye end sigh) so I grabbed a pair of black swivel mounts for $6 from the store and some screws and got to it. cut them down to the long sides @ 20" each. and voila (including the broken one I gotta fix) struts!

got the one thats complete mounted but not inplace as I cant figure out the best mounting angle. what do you guys think is the better angle for permanent mounting?

this?

or this?

and with only one strut, all folded into its bag yay!

 

[stackz]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

also got my cooler seat mounted today.

tomorrow, I'm going to resize my neighbor's old cooler seat cushion top to fit this one and hard mount it to the top of the cooler. and yeah, its dirty, I have to clean the whole boat.

 

[stackz]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

Well I guess the overwhelming lack of comments means what it means. Expiramentation here I come

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

This one due to the fact that it is 90 degrees opposite of the main strut. this will make it Much stronger especially if operating under power with the Bimini up!

 

[stackz]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

ok, got some more work done. and before anyone says anything, nope, didnt realize the blue filter was on the camera when I was taking the pics haha.

anyway, I finished off the cooler seat. my neighbor threw out his old cushion because it had some stains he didnt feel like cleaning off. its larger so I just cut it down to fit mine. free material is always good as far as I'm concerned.

the middle of the cooler top was a little weak so I cut out a seat bottom for the cushion to use on top and bolted it to the cooler lid. I need the sun to beat on it to get the top wrinkles out but I'll just deal with the crappy corners until this cushion rots and then redo it right. but its installed and seems to be in the best place possible for walking around/sitting/etc.

I also finished the privacy shade for the transom area. I was talking with my neighbor a bit too long after spraying the adhesive on so it got too tacky and hard to move around on me in a couple corner areas and i have wrinkles I'll have to deal with.

I'll pull it back apart later this summer and redo it so it lays down smoother along the wooden bar at the bottom but at least I had the height on the wooden bar right so the shade barely is touching the carpet. also noticed the front mount for the gas tank had let go from the screws being too short. guess I gotta get longer ones.

anyway, aside from cleaning and messing with a couple of the gauges (will do on the water) the interior is done to the point I feel happy to take it on the water. I've got a couple things I want to refinish but right now its a functional interior space so I can use the boat and thats what matters most to me right now.

anyone know the full basic coast guard safety equipment list? I'm pretty sure its as follows:
1. working horn
2. front rear night time lights
3. safety vests for all occupants
4. flares
5. fire extinguisher (not sure?)
6. anchor (not sure?) I do have an anchor, just gotta get some rope for it.
7. oar (not sure?)

anything to add or take away?

 

[stackz]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

also I finished the bimini top as well by completing the opposite side and getting both struts installed. top is super solid now and I feel really comfortable with it.

 

[stackz]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

I also got the trailer adjusted today. I have no idea if this is ideal or not so please toss some input on what you would do more? I have this weird feeling that I need a roller or something else to help support the main boards for some reason?

anyway, I loosened up both board setups and then knocked them out past the ribs (chines?) in the pictures. I have myself about 1.5~2" clearance past the ribs so it wouldnt be so tight during launch/loading and have them following parallel before I tightened it all back up. let me know what you guys think please!

 

[mytoyz]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

Was hopign you could tell me where in the hull on these boats water absorbing foam is? I just bought a 1988 Capri 152 and it has a heavy 4 stroke 60hp on the back, but from the water stain lines on the outside of the hull, it was sitting way too low in the back, and the people said it wasnt getting on plane quick enough, but the motor seems right on. It hass glued carpeting, and I find no signs of the ski locker under the carpeting. Has a 1'x2' cutout about a foot deep in rear for bilge. Floors are rock solid. Any chance I have foam between the floors and hull bottom? Thanks in advance.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

Any chance I have foam between the floors and hull bottom? Thanks in advance.

You do.

 

[stackz]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

Was hopign you could tell me where in the hull on these boats water absorbing foam is? I just bought a 1988 Capri 152 and it has a heavy 4 stroke 60hp on the back, but from the water stain lines on the outside of the hull, it was sitting way too low in the back, and the people said it wasnt getting on plane quick enough, but the motor seems right on. It hass glued carpeting, and I find no signs of the ski locker under the carpeting. Has a 1'x2' cutout about a foot deep in rear for bilge. Floors are rock solid. Any chance I have foam between the floors and hull bottom? Thanks in advance.

sorry for the long response delay, didnt realize anyone was paying attention to my thread anymore lol. but yeah, the foam is going to be in huge blobs under the floor. along the chines. mine was completely soaked and each blob weighed something like 60-80 lb each due to all the water retention. kinda rediculous a boating company would use foam that RETAINS water in a bilge area...but whatever.

made a bunch more progress and almost splashed it this weekend. good friend bought a 07 237 bayliner deck boat and going out on it made me hungry to get mine out on the water.

I got it all cleaned up (man its a pain getting mildew/mold/algae off the surfaces). I also got the dried fiberglass globs off the body of the boat itself. just did the same method I use on cars, got a brand new razor blade and scraped ever so gently side/side with it kinda like using it as a brush. it all came off pretty easy. also used the same method on a bunch of rust stains and it came off as well. then I wet sanded with 1500 grit to help blend in the small marks I made. aside from some surfaces being shinier now from the sandpaper it looks great! think I'll buff the boat body so everything matches.

I also got it fired up again after I finished cleaning. all my gauges are brand new and include a speedometer, tachometer, gas gauge, tilt/trim, volt, water pressure, and water temperature. the tach seems to be off by about 800 rpm or so at idle so I probably have the dip switches wrong. going to be interesting tracking down the info I need to set it up correctly. the gas gauge was tested originally to work but for some reason isnt reading now...unless I've siphoned too much gas out of the tank and it really is about empty lol. tilt/trim doesnt work but I'm sure thats the sender as I know it crapped out a while back. water pressure isnt working either so I guess I gotta figure that out.

the most important one that did work properly was my water temp as I had a bad water pump in the past (which is also the reason for the water pressure gauge) and I dont want to overheat again if possible. basically, it would still pee really good but would overheat. so now I have the combined water pressure and temperature so if the pressure drops and its still peeing, I'll know something is going on with the pump again before something bad happens and the temp climbs too high.

was going to take it out after I had it running as I was pretty happy but my friend had to borrow my class 3 hitch and I couldnt get my bumper ball tight due to interferance from the hitch so this was as close as I got lol.

I swear accessories nickle/dime you to death. couple flares, couple anchor lines, a fire extinguisher, new transom straps and a few other nick nacks I needed cost me almost $200, my eyes nearly popped out of my head at checkout lol.

oh yeah, while I was cleaning I noticed my prop has a bunch of nicks and some cuts in it. I'm pretty sure this info means its a 19p right hand rotation right? I think I may get an aftermarket stainless prop this summer but not sure what type to get? should I stay 19p or go different pitch? stay 3 blade or try a 4 blade? these things are expensive and I wonder if I should try the different types in aluminum before going to the big boy stainless with the quick shear hub? or just not worry with it? regardless I know oyster banks and the aluminum prop dont do well together from the damage I've seen. (I dont have a trolling motor and like to fish for reds along banks in the past before tearing the boat down).

 

[emoney]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

I think you've done a fine job and we're watching, just not a lot to comment on.
As to the prop, I can't help you there as I still don't have a great grasp of props & pitch, etc. Might want to post that question in the prop forum if nobody weighs in soon. Good luck on the re-launch.

 

[stackz]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

ok, another update and some problems I've found. one in particular that I hope doesnt stop the project right at the end dead in the water...

got the tach working correctly the other day and while running the engine I heard an loudish but not super loud whirring noise. My awesome ear-o-meter tells me its the lower gearcase. I know as long as I've had the boat, the oil has stayed the same so god only knows. I did quickly pull the lower plug just see what it looked like and it looked/smelled just like regular old 80w oil. looked in my service manual but it doesnt tell me what WEIGHT or TYPE oil to use...just capacity. thats in the specs area and in the gearcase chapter. I have no idea what the correct oil is. only one person responded to my question in the mercury sub forum so I'm going to go with what he said. If the noise doesnt quiet down after this though it makes me think I should pull it apart and see whats up before it flies apart on me?

also, while down there I noticed a good bit of corrosion around the skeg guard. It was apparently put on with those tamper proof screws you see in public restrooms but I have no idea what the tool to get them off is? until I can get that tool and get the skeg guard off to properly clean and reseal everything I just tilted it up let the water inside the guard drain out and dry for a couple days and then used a wire wheel to grind down the corrosion I saw and sealed everything with black waterproof silicon to prevent any more water intrusion/corrosion (very temporary). anyone know that tool's name?

ALSO, while back there I decided to take the old fishfinder stuff off the transom since it was put on with non-stainless screws that were rusting and it was useless anyway. I ground them down just concave and then used gelcoat repair on the areas. I'm going to wetsand today and then reapply more to any low spots to get it flush but man its hard to get the stuff to stay on the back of the transom. I had to let it start to set up on cardboard so it was thicker before I could get it to do right back there.

and FINALLY, while I was doing this and basically playing with it I noticed one of my engine splashwell drains was broken. I pushed it out the front and then saw the horror. oh the horror. I'll have to get video of it this afternoon but I've noticed the transom wiggle every now and then when I trim the engine up/down. I was always curious about the 4 aluminum plates on the upper transom as well. I'm pretty sure my transom is half rotted apart lol. I stuck my finger in the hole left from the splashwell drain and its wet and mushy. It does get a bit more solid on the sides as if its made of two pieces of wood squished together and the area between them has rotted but it cant be good.

even with what I've done to this boat as of yet, its not worth me pulling the top cap off and replacing the transom. before I do that, I'll gut the thing, trash the hull and sell the trailer while keeping the engine and looking for a center console with a blown engine.

I just want to know if the transom will last through the season AND/OR if I can just put a big aluminum plate across on the outside for a brace and then rebrace the upper and lower bolts on the inside and just run the boat till it falls apart? I do not want my engine breaking off the back of the stupid boat and falling in the river though lol.

Another idea I was tossing around since the engine will need to come off anyway for the bracing (this winter) would be if I could just cut off the top part of the transom, dig out all the rotted stuff somehow, and then fill the area with seacast. then stick the glass portion I cut off back on, epoxy it down to the seacast and patch it back in then spray it with a white topcoat? as you can see I'm tossing all kinds of goofy ideas in my head as I hate to just junk the boat after fighting with the floor, etc. I'd rather get a season or two out of it before I go down that road.

what do you guys think?

just adding this for my own reference for later. now I just need to find my windshield brace as well
http://www.iboats.com/Seachoice-Spl...4671765--**********.462996355--view_id.131015

 

[ezmobee]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

The lower unit should be filler with lower unit gear oil. Wal-Mart has a super tech brand and it specifically says lower unit oil or lube right on it.

We don't have much of a track record of telling people how to band aid their rotten transom. Sorry! That boat really doesn't look very difficult to de-cap.

 

[stackz]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

yeah, I know bandaids are generally frowned upon but I just do not have the room to pull the cap off this boat. my fiance would kill me considering how long of a process redoing the backyard has already been lol.

anyway, here's some better pics of the transom. you can see the cracking on both sides. I never really paid attention before but I have no idea why the person who put the braces on...didnt take those two random stainless bolts out and patch it so the braces wouldnt bend like that? I'll remedy that later on. the spiderwebbing is one thing but the horizontal cracks are what I'm referring to.

also, a bad pic of inside the splashwell drain to see the rot. I just have painters tape over the inside portion of the hole in case it rains though I think I may just put some duct tape as well. will 5200 actually harden with wetness like this when I replace the splash drain?

I mean sense I have to deal with this right now as-is I'd rather no more water get in there. also thinking of pulling the engine bolts and covering them with 5200 as it looks like the idiot PO just used bathroom caulk when sealing holes...:facepalm:

here's a horrible horrible useless video of me trying to show the transom flex. holding a cell phone camera and trying to keep it level while pulling on an engine foot and pointing at the transom...doesnt work very well lol.

http://youtu.be/04e9wAzv9r0

 

[stackz]

Re: My 1990 Thundercraft 1506 rebuild + background

also, here's what I did with the old fish finder holes.

I used my angle grinder and just ground them and the small area around them just past flush and then filled in with this stuff I got from west marine.

its been on the transom in the places for a couple days now per the instructions but I can still dig my finger into it a bit. just how long does it really take to cure before I can sand it and apply more before finish sanding?