My Force 150 failed me (again)

[SkiDad]

Re: My Force 150 failed me (again)

or you could just leave the key to off position and jump the selonoid with a piece of wire. I can't remember what color wires at the moment but it is in the forum somewhere. that is how I tested mine last year. The gauge I used registered the numbers and they stayed until you hit the release button.

 

[johnbottsr]

Re: My Force 150 failed me (again)

Well I made a nice little octopus grounding thing to ground all the plug wires and gave it a go.
Here's the thing:
When the compression tester was screwed into the #1 cylinder the starter would go a rev or two and stop.
Without it the starter would turn the engine at a consistent (slow) speed.

I am leaning real hard toward a weak starter here.

I did the test in the manual where you hook up the jumper cables from the starter to the relay and battery and removing all four of them one at a time made no difference (all plugs out).

Could one of you gurus give me your opinion on this please?

Also, I discovered that what I thought was a fuel filter was a hose to nothing.
A simple screen for chunks on what I assume (the hose goes to a through hole below the waterline), is an attachment for a pump for spraydown. I know this is more of a boat related question but I wanted to let y'all know I am not sure there is a fuel filter.
I went and bought one today (fuel filter / water separator) but am going to get the engine starting woes out of the way before I install it.

 

[pnwboat]

Re: My Force 150 failed me (again)

Sent you a PM.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: My Force 150 failed me (again)

If you have removed all the plugs?
And it still is hard to turn over when the comp tester is hooked up?
Then start at the battery. Load test, any of the chain auto parts stores will check it for free.
Make sure the connections are clean/tight.
That OK ,then remove the starter and check the brushes.

 

[johnbottsr]

Re: My Force 150 failed me (again)

Well my new friend pwnboat helped me out with the motor yesterday.
Cleaning all the connections between the battery and the starter fixed the issue with it.
The starter itself looked pretty good.

However, we did find the compression on #5 was less that 100lbs while the other 4 were between 125 - 130.
So that's an issue I will need to address at some point.

Also, the PO had the carburetor screws way out and the throttle cable had some issues that were fixed.
I would like to thank pwnboat publicly here and tell everyone what a good guy he is - Thanks Ed.

I'll post up the on the water results after my next trip to the lake which hopefully will be soon.

 

[pnwboat]

Re: My Force 150 failed me (again)

Glad to help. It was a pleasure meeting you! Hope your wife isn't too miffed that you spent longer than expected working on the boat.

 

[johnbottsr]

Re: My Force 150 failed me (again)

Glad to help. It was a pleasure meeting you! Hope your wife isn't too miffed that you spent longer than expected working on the boat.

Bah.
We've been married so long there are lots of other things she can be mad about.

On an outboard related note, I am planning on installing a fuel filter / water separator today and am wondering if I just put the priming bulb for the main engine AND the kicker on the motor side of the filter (i.e. one bulb each), or is there a way to use one bulb for both?

 

[pnwboat]

Re: My Force 150 failed me (again)

It's probably best to have a separate primer bulb for each motor. The primer bulb isolates the fuel flow for each motor if you're thinking of using a common supply line. If you try and supply fuel to both motors via 1 primer bulb, which ever motor is running may eventually suck the fuel out of the fuel bowl from the other motor and possibly start sucking air.

 

[johnbottsr]

Re: My Force 150 failed me (again)

Makes sense.
So, fuel line from main tank in and each motor out to a primer bulb.
No reason for a valve then because the primer bulbs are one way.

 

[brinker232]

Re: My Force 150 failed me (again)

JerryJerry05, thanks again!!! Reading this thread helped me solve about 3 of my own problems!

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: My Force 150 failed me (again)

Brinker, Your welcome.
Just send a donation to the send Jerry to Australia Fund!!

 

[johnbottsr]

Re: My Force 150 failed me (again)

OK, so the boat idles and starts good now but it occurred to me that the issue with the abrupt stall at speed really hasn't been resolved as far as I know. I do have confidence the motor will restart if and when this happens, but I would like to be able to go out and cruise without fretting the so far inevitable, suddenly shocking silence of an outboard that has died.
I think I would like to put an inline, see-through filter between the pump and the carbs to see if it is just starving for fuel when this happens. I thought Frank posted a Purolater part number of one that is ideal but I can't seem to find it now. Any help with this will be appreciated.
Also, I went out and tried checking the overheat horn and totally failed. I believe the boat has one as I traced the tan wire to a small black box under the dash (helm?) with another wire going direct to the ignition. This other wire has 12V on it with the key ON, so I am guessing the thermoswitch provides a path to ground at a set temperature to activate the horn?
Anyway, is there a good way to bench test the alarm before I throw a part at it?

Sorry for the long post, been pondering this a while.

 

[pnwboat]

Re: My Force 150 failed me (again)

Yes the thermoswitch just provides a ground path which triggers the overheat buzzer. As far as the filter, any in line will work. Just need to make sure it will fit your hoses.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: My Force 150 failed me (again)

If you've got the buzzer out? Just touch it to a battery. One lead to neg. the other to pos. It should sound off.
You sure it's the buzzer?? Pic??
If it' bad?? You can replace it with ANY 12v auto horn.It's a million times louder than the little buzzer.

The inline filter,see through, Wally World. G-2 or G-12 depending on hose size.

 

[johnbottsr]

Re: My Force 150 failed me (again)

The buzzer was absolutely fried.
Put the power to the other input (presumably oil pressure or whatever because it was one of those dual purpose alarms) and grounded it and let out an anemic squeak for about a second.
Replaced it with an aftermarket car horn from O'Reilly's and now grounding the tan wire at the J-box will get your attention.
I will probably pull the thermoswitch and test it just to make sure that whole circuit is working, but for now I am giving it a tentative FIXED.

Also put the inline filter on and am going to replace all the constant tension clamps on fuel lines with the worm gear type.