My New Broken Boat, HELP.....

[v-twindad]

Re: My New Broken Boat, HELP.....

Just talked to the manufacture about the parts, all new parts are in stock, the prices are as follows:

new shaft:- 200.00

new skegs x3- 58.50 ea.

strut (undrilled base)-136.50

rudder- 182.00

Have not priced the prop yet.

 

[v-twindad]

Re: My New Broken Boat, HELP.....

Well I towed the boat down to "The Profesionals" and they quoted me 1500.00 to 2000.00 to fix it and I would have to reposistion and drill for the hardware. Well needless to say I cant afford that, so I will be doing it myself. Talking to the people at the repair place, they said the repair would have to be done from both sides, is this true, if so how do you fight gravity when your laying up on the bottom of the boat? I dont want to have to flip the boat. There are resessed areas on the bottom where the rudder bolts up and one where the strut bolts up, I was just going to eliminate those and just keep the whole area flat to make the repair a little easier, I will just have to move my strut slightly aft to compensate for the hieght difference. any way I will be getting the plywood core out, and then cut out the damaged areas, Can this repair be done from the inside only? Someone told me that if you do it from the inside, you put a backer board with some release agent on the bottom and then from the top you put your gel coat down first then glass layups over that, Then glue the new core in and glass over that. Please help me with some direction.

 

[fixb52s]

Re: My New Broken Boat, HELP.....

Look toward the begining of Oops' post about his hull extension. A lot of good info there that will help you make a form with kitchen counter arbourite. As for not flipping, it is tough to do without flipping the hull, but it can be done. Pros use vaccum bags to keep it all from dripping and such.​

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: My New Broken Boat, HELP.....

Go find Ondarvr - when it comes to fiberglass repairs, he's pretty much the guru around here. I suspect he'll have some very good observations and suggestions.

Like a few of the others, I also think you made a good purchase at $3,000. Between the the motor and the trailer, you've already got the price covered. In fact, I think you could farm the work out to a professional, pay him three or four thousand dollars to fix the boat, and still be ahead of the game.

 

[oops!]

Re: My New Broken Boat, HELP.....

sorry it took so long to get back to this one....


cut the whole sha bang out.....keep the area as small as you can, but get all the damage out......leave your self a flat area to glass to.... save the cut out part that houses the thru hull......youll need to duplicate it....

yes youll have to fix it from both sides......look at the hull ext thread..... see feathering....(its at the beginning.....right when i cut the hull)

id start by glassing in the area....dont worry bout the thru hull yet.....just fix the hole......first from the inside of the hull.....then the outside.....leave the glass rough on the outside.....dont gell it yet

for that size of an area.....id use epoxy as robj suggested....you wont need a stupid amount.....

after you have fixed the damage, and you have a whole hull again.....the alignment should be as simple as putting a shaft from the engine to the hull and marking the spot.....drill it.....then glass the shaft mounts in......(use a mock up dowell as a prop shaft when glassing so it will be true)

after the mounts are glassed and all the mechanical is in place....crawl under there and fair the outside of the hull.

(filpping the hull will be easyer to work on....but i really dont think the area is big enough to kill you.) if you do decide to flip it.....make sure every drop of liquid out of the motor and gas tank or it will be ugly

thats just a quick few thoughts.... ill give it some more thought tommorow....and talk to some people here.
let us know if you decide to keep the boat or part it out.
if you decide to keep it and fix it......it will be a great thread here

cheers
oops

 

[v-twindad]

Re: My New Broken Boat, HELP.....

Thank for the direction oops.

 

[Robj]

Re: My New Broken Boat, HELP.....

Worst case scenario, you have $6 k sunk into the boat if someone else fixes it. That boat is easily worth double that here.

Try and keep the outer skin intact as much as possible and do as much work from the inside as you can. It is easier to do that than trying to repair the outer skin. Saturate the inside skin with epoxy then install the plywood that you have coated with a few coats of expoxy to seal it.

Regardless of which way you repair it, you got a great deal and will have an awesome boat once finished.

Have a great day,

Rob.

 

[v-twindad]

Re: My New Broken Boat, HELP.....

Hey guys

Thanks for all the advise, I have decided to bite the bullet and have the profesionals fix the fiberglass (sorry for whimmping out), but once the boat is repaired I will be tasked to re-locate and re-mount all new hardware (Rudder plate and shaft strut) from scratch. The areas where these were mounted had a slight recess in the mounting area but after the repair it will just be flat like the rest of the area around it (kinda hard to explain). Any advise for re-locating and re-aligning these items? I will post some more pictures after the fiberglass repair is done.

Thanks
Chuck

 

[stevenw00]

Re: My New Broken Boat, HELP.....

Although you're not going this route, this is a good thread to make the note in... in a case like this where you have a hull that is how you want your final project to be shaped, it would be great to take a release agent of some kind (maybe the Tuct tape that Oops! has used) and coat the bottom of the boat. Glass it in from the bottom, w/ any kind of "mold" to hold the glass while it dries. Once it is done, you can take it off and you'll have the perfect mold for after you cut out the bad area and start to glass in the new.

Just an idea.