my new old 1988 ss20v

[ab59]

I'm still trying to find my way around the forums here and came across this Starcraft forum by reading another post . I found a 1988 ss20v Aluminum hull with a froze up 5.7 and the insides totally roached out. and drove 3.5 hrs to buy it for 600.00 bucks. I

I have removed the engine and the half of the deck that was seriously rotted . I began to remove the side panels but when I came to the drivers side and the flush mount concealed shift controller is a problem. I can't seem to figure out how to get the face plate off to remove the control box. The only way I can thin of will destroy the controller so any help would be appreciated . I put it in a different area but got no response, maybe it is in the wrong place.
Once I get the side panels out I'm thinking about using carpet instead of upholstery , any one have any thoughts about that ??
Here is about where I am now on my project , I have a rebuilt engine coming any time now and need to get it in gear so to speak.

 

[laurentide]

Can you post a photo of the remote control? Someone might be able to help if we know what you've got.

Nice boat. It should clean up nice. Bummer about the pour-in foam, I'm guessing it's wet, yes?

Take a look here: http://forums.iboats.com/MerCruiser/Control

 

[ab59]

Ok here is a picture of the controls--

 

[ab59]

chemicalwire-- I forgot to say that the foam is the original pour in foam from the factory and is dry so I can just install the deck over it with no real problem. The gas tank has fuel in it so today I am going to take the sending unit off and siphon the fuel out. I found a loose black wire laying next to the sending unit that I don't see a place where it was connected that has got me scratching my head , hope this is not a sigh of things to come. I did turn the key on to lower the outdrive before removal and saw that none of the dash seemed to work and the rpm gauge came up and pegged itself out ! Guess that will be another wild goose chase when I get there. Ahh the joy of restoration sometimes but the crazy thing is that I seem to like it .lol glutton for punishment I guess you could say.
By the way the pictures of the controls does not really show that only one screw is accessible on the face plate and the other round holes that look like screw holes have plastic dowels attached to the inside of the unit. When I try to pry it out it acts like it is attached to the center of the shift leaver hole.

 

[ab59]

problem solved thanks for your help

 

[BWR1953]

problem solved thanks for your help

So what was the solution?

 

[ab59]

while I was draining the fuel tank I went over to the controller and started to twist and pull just like before only this time it popped rite off !!! he last time I tried , I gave it a few shots of WD-40 and let it soak. that is what made the difference , it was just corroded on there and the lube broke it loose.

 

[Candutch]

Welcome to the Starmada ab59. That's a great find you got there. Looking forward to the restore. Make sure you read through other threads as they will give you lots of ideas and help with your rebuild. Also, don't hesitate to ask questions if you have them there are a lot of knowledgeable people on this forum happy to help.

 

[Watermann]

:welcome: aboard and to the Starmada,

A very nice SS you found for and for a super price, the tandem trailer is worth that. Looks like you have a good start on the tear down.

The issue with just leaving the pour in foam and decking over is that it's tough to do a proper test for leaky rivets, seams and keel with that smelly stuff hanging around. The foam then makes it impossible to repair anything on the hull that needs it. The cost of replacing it is nil when compared to the whole process. If the boat was left to the elements as it seems to have been then the foam surely has to have retained some water, odor, insects or some other undesirable trait.

 

[ab59]

Watermann-- I watched the boat on C list for a week or two and there was no price . Finally he put a price of 600 bucks on it and I was on the phone asap , got him to agree to wait for me to get there that day and had his word on the deal. I hopped into my pickup and drove 3.5 hrs over the mountains to Fortuna Ca. and made the deal. Great boat to restore as the hull is immaculate and after having owned a Starcraft in the past I have every confidence in the hull.
The deal with the foam is it looks good and dry, I did drain out a little water from the bilge and dug around here and there but do not see water log any where.. Looks like some one at least kept the drain plugs out and the bow raised somewhat . I did rip out the front of the deck as well today while tearing out the bottoms of the consoles and saw no water logged foam up there either.
I will have around 4000 jn this restoration when done so another four or five hundred for foam is not in the cards this time I did find some rodent damage and a few acorns here and there but after a little vacuuming and disinfectant scrub I think the foam will be ok .
As far as the rivets leaking I guess I'll just have to take my chances as I am just about " all in " on this one.

 

[ab59]

Watermann -- Now you got me worrying about those dang rivets !! lol. What would you think about me putting the drain plug in and putting about 10 " of water in the boat to check for leaking rivets ?? I do not see any damage to the hull at all so I don't see any problem spots no dents in the keel or any where else , just a couple of scratches here and there.

 

[Watermann]

California SS, ok well that could explain the foam not being water logged.

 

[laurentide]

Weeping rivets are not the end of the world. On these old boats it's near impossible to have a completely dry bilge, even if you go through and replace all the leaking rivets you can find. On my boat, my bilge is dry when the surface water is < 50?. Warmer than that (due to expansion of the aluminum skin) I'll take on a gallon or so over an 8 hour trip. It's never been enough to trip the electronic float switch on the pump...until I load it onto the trailer. So I just don't worry about it.

 

[Candutch]

Unless you are prepared to take the foam out I wouldn't bother putting water in there to leak test. Even if you found leaking rivets you wouldn't be able to rebuck them or seal them with the foam in there.

 

[ab59]

chemicalwire-- I think that I could live with a dribble now and then as well, there is no damage to any of the riveted areas of the hull so I feel ok not removing the foam after your comment .

Candutch -- the point of the question of putting some water in the hull was to see if it leaked any if so then I was going to make up my mind about the foam and repairs to rivets .
I gotta nuther question for you guys , I just cut the final deck board out and I want to seal it with poly resin and since I have some 7# fiberglass cloth , I though of laying down one layer in the most problem areas of the deck ,. being around the engine and up front in the bow area. I am thinking about putting a livewell up front as well and it seems like good sense to dry it up extra good up there.
what you guys think, would the resin bother the aluminum or is it a mute point ??

 

[Watermann]

Most of us use epoxy resin or spar to seal the decking plywood. But no resin won't have any effect on aluminum.

 

[ab59]

thanks Watermann I just had a gallon of poly resin and some cloth as well as mat left over from the Ski Barge that I restored last year and thought I would use it before it went bad.

thanks

 

[Candutch]

"Candutch -- the point of the question of putting some water in the hull was to see if it leaked any if so then I was going to make up my mind about the foam and repairs to rivets."

Ah gotcha! No wonder it didn't make any sense to me, I'm a little slow sometimes.

 

[ab59]

Thought I would post a little of my progress for anyone who might be interested .Well , I'm headed the other direction now and I have the new deck riveted in, Resin today carpet tomorrow, hopefully .

 

[Watermann]

Did you seal the underside and edges of the plywood before installing it?