My Own Battery Setup ?s

rost495

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 10, 2005
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I"ve thought it through and don't want a battery switch. I am going to wire one battery to the control box for the motor. The other on the other side of the boat will be for accessories.

Here is what I come up with and input is welcome. I want to be able to disconnect both batteries when not in use.... I can put an inline fuse in the hot leads, and just remove the fuse, no big deal. Seems like less of an issue than a breaker, and it won't be able to be in a really dry area anyway if I use a breaker. So an inline fuse on the hot wire only and pull the fuse and there is no way for the motor to start on its own, acc to drain the battery etc.....??

Next I want the alternator(if I ever figure out which wire that is....) to charge both batteries while the motor is running-- matter of an isolator type thing?? Wired correctly? IIRC on my old truck, if the isolator failed you just made up a jumper and good to go...(both batteries will be totally seperate and not linked together- can swap batteries or use jumpers if in a bind)

Also can I rig an on board battery charger to catch both of them easily for charge/maintenance issues?

Last question-- Im' way rural, local auto supply has optima batteries, the gel type-- are they worth the extreme cost?? Any sources of cheaper ones but shipping is probably a killer. And stay away from Wal mart batteries??? They are the other source I have.

FWIW 21 HydraSport CC, 200 Johnson(talk about some headaches, wiring harness is 85 or 89 and motor is 94..... so its becoming interesting....) Will be bay saltwater and offshore runs probably 20-30 miles max... if that makes a difference, IE water can get rough.

Thanks in advance, Jeff
 

dingbat

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Nov 20, 2001
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16,312
Re: My Own Battery Setup ?s

I got to ask, why not switch? It sure would be a lot easier to deal with than removing fueses and trying to figure how to charge the batteries
 

rost495

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Re: My Own Battery Setup ?s

The issue of never turning the switch at the wrong time and wrecking something on the motor.....
Not sure how to say this, but have willing in laws that love to help while fishing, but I can see them "helping" me into disaster....

Can I put the switch at the motor in the back end if I desire, most I see are on teh console and that seems like excess wiring to me by far....

As I said, input welcome. Change my mind if you can. I'm just scared of the switches.

Jeff
 

Silvertip

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Sep 22, 2003
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Re: My Own Battery Setup ?s

Educating the relatives is quite simple. Tell them to keep their x@?$ hands off the switch. Actually, the only damage you can do is turning it off with the engine running. Start the engine on BAT 1. Switch to BOTH - run to your fishing hole or whatever. Shut off the engine and switch to BAT 2 to run your accessories. When you get ready to leave, switch back to BAT 1, start the engine, switch to BOTH and away you go. Or you can simply start on BOTH. In that position both will charge. In BAT 2 only BAT 2 charges. In BAT 1 only BAT 1 charges. It doesn't get any simpler than that.
 

rost495

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Re: My Own Battery Setup ?s

In off, NOTHING can happen at all then, IE battery drain, motor starting, etc... And I damn sure don't want to run wires all the way to the console and back... for the switch, it can go where the batteries are?
 

rost495

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Re: My Own Battery Setup ?s

I dont' know, I"m dumb I guess, I still don't like the setups mentioned at all.
Why don't I want one battery for the motor only and the other for accessories loads only? Would keep the motor battery always good?

Seems like a switch you run EVERYTHING off one or the other and when going to both you get less performance from having combined them?
 

Silvertip

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Re: My Own Battery Setup ?s

You really misunderstand the purpose of the switch. It's sole purpose in life is to protect the starting battery. When the engine is running, you can select either or both batteries. In the BOTH setting both will charge. When parked, you can select BAT 2 which disconnects BAT 1 (the start battery) so you don't run it down. Your accessories are all wired to the same place (the COMMON terminal) on the switch. The battery you have selected is what feeds them. I just don't see where your concern is. Most recreational boats on the water are fitted with just one battery and they get by very nicely. Unless you have a gazillion watt amp for your stereo or run a trolling motor there is no need to have a second battery. A jump start unit can be carried if you run the battery down. You mentioned that when the switch is in BOTH you have less performance with them combined. You still have 12V but the two batteries act like one great big one so you actually have MORE capacity, not less.
 

rost495

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Jul 10, 2005
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Re: My Own Battery Setup ?s

I appreciate your patience, really do!!

I think I'm getting it now, run with #1 because it'll be charging the whole time, then when trolling or drifting etc... go to #2 while saving #1. Makes a bit more sense now. Though I may be way out of my league-- I don't have a trolling motor (yet) and don't have a stereo at all and hope to keep it that way.

Thanks, think I'm convinced now....

Suggestions on brand and amps or whatever info I need?

Jeff
 

Silvertip

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Re: My Own Battery Setup ?s

No -- run on BOTH which charges BOTH. Then switch to BAT 2 when you troll. When you are ready to go switch back to BOTH and go. BOTH will charge again. There is no discharge from BAT 1 when you have BAT 2 selected. There is no discharge from BAT 2 when you have BAT 1 selected. BOTH allows you to run everything from BOTH batteries.
 

rost495

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Re: My Own Battery Setup ?s

Gracious patience...

Perko switch? How many Amps?
 

Big Keepers

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May 13, 2007
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293
The proper way to go

The proper way to go

I put this in many threads on this forum. Funny how nobody ever sees them with the fancy search option. :rolleyes:

A very easy to install battery link and on/off switch. This is not just an isolator, its a link. One battery is for your accessories, the other starts the motor. The switch is on and off. If necessary there is a combine both but that is not for regular use. The link monitors both batteries and charges the one that needs it most, first. The other one gets a moderate charge until the first one is done charging. The link also isolates the system when starting to prevent current from spiking into accessories or electronics. This set up is the best thing you can do for your boat. Those 1, 2, both switches are horrible. Throw them away. This switch has on and off. If need be as I said, you can combine both for that emergency start. The link will prevent you from shorting one battery with the other.

e8cef931.jpg
 

Silvertip

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Re: My Own Battery Setup ?s

I disagree emphatically that battery switches are horrible. They offer the most flexibility, safety, and are simple and inexpensive to install.
 

Bondo

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Re: My Own Battery Setup ?s

I disagree emphatically that battery switches are horrible. They offer the most flexibility, safety, and are simple and inexpensive to install.

Ayuh,..........

And,.........
It would take 1 'ell of a Fuse to start the motor.......
Boating in Saltwater,...... It'd be Crusted with Crud in No Time.......
 

drewpster

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Oct 17, 2006
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2,059
Re: My Own Battery Setup ?S

Re: My Own Battery Setup ?S

The one thing I tend to focus on when putting together a reliable battery system definitely includes the bonehead factor. The reason I like automatic charging and isolation type systems so much is because they are in fact automatic. 1-2-both switches, isolators and combiners all basically do the same thing. They provide a means of charging separate start and house or trolling batteries while the engine is running and effectively isolate the start battery from discharge while the engine is off. The kind of switch or isolator you choose is going to depend on how the boat is used.
A boat used for day trips to the fishing hole can get by using a simple 1-2-both switch. It does its job well as long as the Captain does his job well. One must remember to turn the switch to the correct setting at the correct time. Leave it in the both position and both batteries go flat. Such a bonehead move seems simple to avoid. But I think you will be surprised how many times you forget this vital step while putting your fishing rig together.
A boat used for long trips would benefit best by using an automatic system. The family and I have spent up to four days on my little cruiser. We have traveled upwards of 50 miles to remote areas. With plenty of stops and starts along the way remembering that battery switch becomes a real chore. Forget it, like I have done, and you end up miles from home with dead batteries, no way to start the engine and a wife who vows never to let you live it down. :mad:
On my cruiser I use a full offshore setup. I uses three separate battery switches (on/off and manual combine), a automatic combiner, and a fully isolated electrical system. This along with a high amp alternator and charge controller make the system about as bonehead proof as possible. On my little tri-hull I recently installed an add-a-battery type system like BigKeepers posted. No more 12 both switches for me. Seems I am just too much of a bonehead.:D
 

Silvertip

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Re: My Own Battery Setup ?s

So automatic devices never fail? When I need to really depend on something, the KISS principle applies (keep it stupid simple). It simply doesn't get any more reliable and simple than a switch. If "memory" is an issue, add a couple of (pardon the term) idiot lights on the console as a reminder as to what's selected and what's not. Forgetting things is natures way of teaching. If you forget to put the plug in the boat and you find your feet wet a few minutes later, there is a pretty good chance you won't forget that task again because you will develop a plan to ward off the issue.
 

Big Keepers

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May 13, 2007
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293
Re: My Own Battery Setup ?s

Nothing is completely perfect and idiot proof. Most marinas and boat places I know of that sell a lot of boats use the battery switch package I posted about above. The majority of boaters around me are just dummies. They don't have any common sense or street smarts. But they are book smart and able to afford a three figure job to support a boat. They don't know how to work on their own boats and motors, they don't pay attention to switches, radios, all that stuff. They forget stupid things like plug in the kill switch lanyard before you try to start the motor.

The switch and link I mentioned above works in such a way that all you need to remember is, turn switch on when you want to use the boat and turn it off when you are done with your boat. Should you forget to turn it off, the batteries are isolated so one can't short out the other. The link monitors both batteries and isolates them. If a battery is shorting out and won't take a charge, the link can alert you to this. There are options for accessory lights and horns that connect to the link so you can monitor it from the helm.
 

drewpster

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Oct 17, 2006
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Re: My Own Battery Setup ?s

I agree, it always good practice to set good habits and to do your best to ward off forgetfulness. No system is foul proof or foolproof. That is the reason the battery systems are set up the way they are. And that's why the manual switches are in the system as well. To provide a backup in case of combiner failure.
I can see why automatic systems seem to be overcomplicating a simple process, and for Silvertip it obviously is, but the technology is sound. It provides redundancy which I believe is a good thing.

BTW- No offense taken. The term 'idiot light' refers to the simplicity of the light itself, not the person reading it. Personally I prefer to know the temperature before it gets too hot.;)
 

Sorrento 25

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Oct 9, 2006
Messages
181
Re: My Own Battery Setup ?s

The Blue Sea add-a-battery dual-circuit system is the way to go IMO.
 
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