My Rotten Lady

[kramerpage]

moisture meters can be very misleading on boats. If you have good dry gold shavings, you should be fine.

Was probly reading all the wet foam. I spent 89.00 bucks on that tool.

 

[kramerpage]

So I need a work plan for this weekend so Im not burning daylight scratching my rear.
Please look at the pic below. It shows rot at the base of the stringer 7 inches forward of the transom. Now, If you look to the right of the rot moving 2 foot toward the bow its yellow as a hunting dog. So can I just make a vertical cut up the stringer where its good wood, remove the old, jack up floor slightly with timber span and two bottle jacks, remove wood, make new piece, install, lower jacks, glass in on both sides and vertical seam and be done?

 

[DeepBlue2010]

You can replace only the rotted piece if you want but the technique needs some enhancements. You will need to sister the new piece correctly to the sound part. I would not just fiberglass the seem and call it done. I would use a piece of wood (ply) behind the seem and glue and fasten both sides to it and them fiber glass all. The new part need to be glassed to the hull as well. Cut the edges of the backing pieces at 45 angel to help with the glass transition. You need the backing to span about a foot or so around the joint.

You will need backing at least from one side but if you have the space, it wouldn't heart to have two of them. The front side will be your engine mount so it will be up to you to just back it up from behind or do it in the front side as well and work it out in the dimensions of the engine mount.

About the bottle jacks, I see where you going with this as to provide some support to the hull but be careful not to create a hook in the hull.

Before you do this, take a straight edge and get a sense of how the hull looks like. Some hull were created with slight hook to them by design. Getting a before feel of the hull will eliminate guess work later on

 

[Woodonglass]

You can do a sister joint with a vertical butt joint or a 45. Either will work. Using 1/4" or 3/8" plywood, glued and screwed to both sides extending 18" on either side of the joint should do the trick and then tab it all to the hull. She'll be good and strong!!!

 

[kramerpage]

OK Guys I got it. Understood. At the top of the bulkhead there is a 1/4 wood chalk like 2 inches wide between the glass floor and the top of the BULKHEAD that I need to replace. on the very top of that is a black tar substance. I'm thinking its black butyl rubber or something that they used to make the floor sick to top of stringer, absorb energy, lesson squeaking. My question is can I replace that with two layers of black "corky tape" I call it used to insulate refrigeration lines by wrapping them around a pipe. Here is the best pic I have of the TOP of the STRINGER which does not have the wood chalk. Sorry for all the questions but its too many questions for just one post. I'm trying to get my ducks in a row....

 

[Woodonglass]

IMHO, I don't see why not!!!

 

[kramerpage]

IMHO, I don't see why not!!!

OK Super. Geee one thing I don't have to buy. lol

Here are two pics of the bulkhead which is now totally removed. This shows the wood chalk. So Im thinking just recreate what was there from the factory.

 

[kramerpage]

Who paints their exhaust pipe? I do. Had some down time so I ground all the corosion off which was all where the hoses band up to it. Got some high temp paint w my auto rewards. Now I need to order the new style flapper since mine were the old. They say the old fall down the pipe which I have never seen after owning 4 v6 motors...but I have read threads and seen the pics so here's another 75 dollars.

 

[kramerpage]

No Title

I'm cutting the engine mount stringers. Here's the ply I am using. 1/2 and 5/8 which measures out 1 inch when laminated.
I'm saturating the panel with TB3 by brushing total surface then a small perimeter bead and a zigzag in the middle.
Then clamp by placing deep cycle batteries on it for 5 minutes then U staple it and clamp with batteries again.
Hope this is a good method. Will be working all weekend if I can take the heat.

Please advise. Thanks

 

[kramerpage]

No Title

So my motor mount sits on a plywood chalk that consists of two non laminated chalks. One is 5/8 and one is 1/2 inch thick. Knowing this can I increase the 14 x 10 mounting pad that's on the main mount/stinger in the picture. Why did they place a total of one inch chalk under a mount that has over 6 inches of threaded adjustment. This boat came with either a v6 or a v8. Mine is the v6 model. Do they make em all one size and then throw in either power plant? If I add 5/8 inch would only need a 1/2 inch chalk and make the stringer/mount area beefier. Or maybe they need that clearance get that motor in or better yet the larger v8. Please share your thoughts. Right now as of the factory method the stringer/mount pad is 3 inches thick constructed of 3 one inch layers of ply. Thanks guys

 

[kramerpage]

No Title

Making some progress on the mounts. They are constructed as the we're from factory. Now I gotta figure out how to fill slope cavity with wood instead of foam.

Sorry to all the neighbors in the county. That's my dust... The angle grinder and 24 grit pads rock. They move the material. Filled a 5 gallon shop vac to the top. Wow.

 

[kramerpage]

No Title

Well here is what I came up with to fill the stringer/mount instead of foam. Now what do I bed this in? Sure looks overkill for a motor mount. Very heavy. Thanks

 

[kramerpage]

Bump...did I do something wrong? Do I need to start a new post for questions?

 

[Bayou Dave]

Nope....I am following your thread. I am sure others are also. Just no comments at the moment, I guess.

 

[Woodonglass]

Busy weekend!!! I'd bed em in Tiger Hair. Resin, Cabosil, and Glass Fibers.

 

[kramerpage]

Busy weekend!!! I'd bed em in Tiger Hair. Resin, Cabosil, and Glass Fibers.[/QUOTE
Thank you
I didn't mean it negatively btw. Just thought I was doing something wrong.

So when you say Tiger Hair. Do you mean evercoats trade name filler. Or are you saying make your own out of Resin, Cabosil, and Glass Fibers?

I currently have plenty of polly. 7 quarts of cabosil, and 5 quarts of 1/4 inch chopped strand. Do I need longer strands to make my own? If so How long. Thank you.

 

[Woodonglass]

Make your own. Use scrap CSM and Tear it apart and then use scissors to cut into 1" strands/fibers. Mix the Resin and Cabosil first to a Creamy Peanut butter consistency then add 1% MEKP stir well and then ad the fibers. It'll be a TANK!!!!

 

[kramerpage]

Make your own. Use scrap CSM and Tear it apart and then use scissors to cut into 1" strands/fibers. Mix the Resin and Cabosil first to a Creamy Peanut butter consistency then add 1% MEKP stir well and then ad the fibers. It'll be a TANK!!!!

Like penut butter but with longer strands..
OK got it thank you so much.
Tiger. You guys are a hoot...

 

[Mark72233]

kramerpage, I over killed my engine mount also and overkill is not a bad word when it comes to rebuilding these boats. I made my motor mount out of 1/2 & 3/4 plywood glued and screwed together making one big piece of plywood about 38" wide, 10" tall in the middle and 10" front to rear. Go with what Wood said that is how mine was put in then tabbed it with several over lapping layers of 1708.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Bump...did I do something wrong? Do I need to start a new post for questions?

Summer in Seattle my friend. It only lasts for 2.5 days

WoG got you covered. I am not clear on the orientation of this engine mount regarding how it is going to be laid down in the hull. Can you post a picture of a dry fit?