F14CRAZY
Ensign
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2008
- Messages
- 945
The vessel of discussion, my 1985 Bayliner Capri 1952.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=272749&page=4&highlight=fabric+oz+stringers
Above is last winter's thread detailing my work of gutting the hull and installing new stringers and deck.
After spending countless hours over the winter I (understandably) was dying to get the boat back on the water, so I did. My deck and stringers were finished and all but there were a lot of small details I wasn't able to get to both with money constraints and the boat being stored under the carport (err boatport) at our cottage. I've towed it back home and have it back in the heated section of the barn, so its winter '09-10 refit! Today I wrote down a list of stuff and took some pix. I'd like to know any suggestions or concerns you guys have over what I intend to do.
Drive system
-replace shift cable: I've used the "nominal neutral" procedure which helped, but it seems that the cable has stretched just about to its limit so its like its barely going into reverse AND forward. I've adjusted the cable length at the shift converter in both directions but it seems it makes one better, the other worse. Is it at all possible to shorten the cable a tiny bit and have like a bicycle shop replace the ends? I understand it's right to spend a money but new OMC cables on ebay are pushing like $400. Last spring I tore the sterndrive apart and replaced all the seals and inspected the shift gears which i thought, and was told, were in good shape.
-drill and retap bolts holes: On the sterndrive there's a bolt or two that have broken off on the exhaust ports...the covers on the pivot joint...is that makes sense. Wasn't caused by me. I'll get a heli-coil kit and fix them but I'd imagine that drilling out stainless steel bolts in aluminum won't be easy.
-strip old paint from sterndrive: I got thinking, is it possible to strip the paint, polish the housings, and clearcoat them? My Series 400 would have a sweet chrome-like finish
. If this truly isn't possible I'll just strip, prime, and paint following the instructions in another thread.
-replace oil pan gasket: it seeps
-fix block leak: the previous owner didn't drain the block and let it freeze, so behind the manifold there's a crack that's pretty much the entire length of the block. They JB welded it but part of it failed so there's a tiny trickle when under way. I removed the manifold, ground down the bad spot, and re-JB welded it but it came back. I'll knock it all off and call over a mobile welder that I have a good relationship with and have him braze it. Either that or I'll bring it to him. After cruising for a few hours there's a noticeable amount of water in the bilge, not enough to trigger the pump but I really don't like having water inside if I don't have to. And the leak could very well get worse.
-replace hoses: on the Lake Superior lakeshore the hose running from the thermostat housing to the intermediate housing ruptured. I didn't notice it until the boat had a list and I happened to look back and saw water on the deck coming through the drain holes. I had to yell "where the F is that water coming from!?". Luckily it was near the end so I was able to cut off the bad part and reinstall it BUT due to that incident I intend on replacing all the hoses on the engine.
-fix the skeg:
The previous owner(s) nailed bottom a number of times. It had a stainless prop which had a good number of nicks in it. I've read here that the extra inertia weight is bad for the OMC shift mechanism so I switched to the aluminum prop that came with it (and is still in good shape). As I understand it the skeg is mostly to protect the prop in case you touch bottom. Would it be ok if I had my welder heli-arc on a new chunk? It won't be too hot for the internals will it? Should I drain the oil?
-Shift housing seals: last spring when I tore apart the sterndrive to fix the bent prop shaft and install new seals I noticed that the shift cable inside the sheath had been wet. Being that the sheathing had no cracks or breaks I've assumed that water had been coming in from the sterndrive end...the cable terminates in a housing with a couple pulleys and has a gear outside of it that engages the rack that controls shifting (hope that explains it). My local marina sucks...they're still an Evinrude dealer and I've been able to get OMC parts before but they were in denial about the seal. I took the cable into them to have a service tech use the special puller tool to remove the shaft that the external gear rides on so I could replace the seal but they claimed it couldn't be remove...bs, you can't tell me that when the service manual tells how to do it and the parts catalog has the part numbers for the special tool and the seals. Well, wtf-ever, I ordered the necessary stuff wholesale online from a BRP dealer and will replace the seals myself. This fix is obviously related to the replacement of the shift cable above.
-replace tilt housing cover and reseal:
Someone before me broke a couple of the corners off of the tilt housing cover, hence the RTV you see (and I misplaced the fill plug, of which I later found). I'll find another one on ebay or something and replace it along with a new O ring. I also suspect that the seal on the shift itself, behind the gear connected with the rack, is leaking because its physically loose. Oh, and it fails a pressure/vacuum test. I'll see about replacing the bearing in there as well.
-depth sounder: the little bracket that holds it in place broke, so when underway it swings backwards and doesn't do any good except at no wake speeds. I think I'll skip the bracket and just mount it in the bilge.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=272749&page=4&highlight=fabric+oz+stringers
Above is last winter's thread detailing my work of gutting the hull and installing new stringers and deck.
After spending countless hours over the winter I (understandably) was dying to get the boat back on the water, so I did. My deck and stringers were finished and all but there were a lot of small details I wasn't able to get to both with money constraints and the boat being stored under the carport (err boatport) at our cottage. I've towed it back home and have it back in the heated section of the barn, so its winter '09-10 refit! Today I wrote down a list of stuff and took some pix. I'd like to know any suggestions or concerns you guys have over what I intend to do.
Drive system
-replace shift cable: I've used the "nominal neutral" procedure which helped, but it seems that the cable has stretched just about to its limit so its like its barely going into reverse AND forward. I've adjusted the cable length at the shift converter in both directions but it seems it makes one better, the other worse. Is it at all possible to shorten the cable a tiny bit and have like a bicycle shop replace the ends? I understand it's right to spend a money but new OMC cables on ebay are pushing like $400. Last spring I tore the sterndrive apart and replaced all the seals and inspected the shift gears which i thought, and was told, were in good shape.
-drill and retap bolts holes: On the sterndrive there's a bolt or two that have broken off on the exhaust ports...the covers on the pivot joint...is that makes sense. Wasn't caused by me. I'll get a heli-coil kit and fix them but I'd imagine that drilling out stainless steel bolts in aluminum won't be easy.
-strip old paint from sterndrive: I got thinking, is it possible to strip the paint, polish the housings, and clearcoat them? My Series 400 would have a sweet chrome-like finish
. If this truly isn't possible I'll just strip, prime, and paint following the instructions in another thread.-replace oil pan gasket: it seeps
-fix block leak: the previous owner didn't drain the block and let it freeze, so behind the manifold there's a crack that's pretty much the entire length of the block. They JB welded it but part of it failed so there's a tiny trickle when under way. I removed the manifold, ground down the bad spot, and re-JB welded it but it came back. I'll knock it all off and call over a mobile welder that I have a good relationship with and have him braze it. Either that or I'll bring it to him. After cruising for a few hours there's a noticeable amount of water in the bilge, not enough to trigger the pump but I really don't like having water inside if I don't have to. And the leak could very well get worse.
-replace hoses: on the Lake Superior lakeshore the hose running from the thermostat housing to the intermediate housing ruptured. I didn't notice it until the boat had a list and I happened to look back and saw water on the deck coming through the drain holes. I had to yell "where the F is that water coming from!?". Luckily it was near the end so I was able to cut off the bad part and reinstall it BUT due to that incident I intend on replacing all the hoses on the engine.
-fix the skeg:
The previous owner(s) nailed bottom a number of times. It had a stainless prop which had a good number of nicks in it. I've read here that the extra inertia weight is bad for the OMC shift mechanism so I switched to the aluminum prop that came with it (and is still in good shape). As I understand it the skeg is mostly to protect the prop in case you touch bottom. Would it be ok if I had my welder heli-arc on a new chunk? It won't be too hot for the internals will it? Should I drain the oil?
-Shift housing seals: last spring when I tore apart the sterndrive to fix the bent prop shaft and install new seals I noticed that the shift cable inside the sheath had been wet. Being that the sheathing had no cracks or breaks I've assumed that water had been coming in from the sterndrive end...the cable terminates in a housing with a couple pulleys and has a gear outside of it that engages the rack that controls shifting (hope that explains it). My local marina sucks...they're still an Evinrude dealer and I've been able to get OMC parts before but they were in denial about the seal. I took the cable into them to have a service tech use the special puller tool to remove the shaft that the external gear rides on so I could replace the seal but they claimed it couldn't be remove...bs, you can't tell me that when the service manual tells how to do it and the parts catalog has the part numbers for the special tool and the seals
. Well, wtf-ever, I ordered the necessary stuff wholesale online from a BRP dealer and will replace the seals myself. This fix is obviously related to the replacement of the shift cable above.-replace tilt housing cover and reseal:
Someone before me broke a couple of the corners off of the tilt housing cover, hence the RTV you see (and I misplaced the fill plug, of which I later found). I'll find another one on ebay or something and replace it along with a new O ring. I also suspect that the seal on the shift itself, behind the gear connected with the rack, is leaking because its physically loose. Oh, and it fails a pressure/vacuum test. I'll see about replacing the bearing in there as well.
-depth sounder: the little bracket that holds it in place broke, so when underway it swings backwards and doesn't do any good except at no wake speeds. I think I'll skip the bracket and just mount it in the bilge.
