Pull the prop and check the shaft with a dial indicator.
So Texas, you are saying that if the stock runs a 17P, I should run a 14.5P with a 2.3:1 ?
You want to run more pitch with a 2.3:1 ratio, driveshaft has to spin 2.3 times to rotate prop shaft 1 rpm, so works out to 19.55, so run a 19 or 20 pitch prop, 19 would probably be better all around
Gary
So Texas, you are saying that if the stock runs a 17P, I should run a 14.5P with a 2.3:1 ?
You mentioned a prop on another engine you had. I just commented on the fact that unless you were at the extremes of performance for either, with like items you need to increase the pitch of the prop 15% on the 2.3 as compared to what one would run on the 2.0 engine of like capabilities to get the same performance.
Assume water were a solid. For one 360 degree rotation of the prop, and running the same prop, the 2.0 would move the prop 15% farther than the 2.3. So, to make all things equal, you'd have to increase the pitch when running it on the 2.3 by 15% to go the same distance per rev, hence mph. Make sense?
So what are the two pitches of the props mentioned and what are their characteristics? If identical just give me the pitch numbers and which prop is on which engine.
Mark
Thanks for your time Tex, this is useful info to me. The problem is that I dont have a tach on my boat right now, but I have the stock prop (17P for a 2:1 ratio) on a lower unit with a 2.3:1 Ratio. I think that speaking from a physics standpoint, a 19P prop would do me just fine. Top speed now on the boat is plenty, but I could use a better hole shot. If the prop shaft is not bent Id be happy to put a prop on there and go with it. It would be more than great for me, just dont want to do it if propshaft is bent....
Now if you want some performance, get yourself a 19P SS that is ported (Merc Laser II). The ports let you spin up fast in the hole just as if you had a much lower pitched prop (hole size determines the slip), but at WOT the holes are sealed off and you have the 19p propelling you....best of both worlds.
Mark
You may have a bent blade to go along with your wear and tear on your current prop. A prop shop could measure it tell you, but again I say: With an aluminum prop, before you are going to bend that stainless steel prop shaft, you are going to have a full dog eared blade, one knocked completely off, or something drastic.
I used to have a '72 125 Johnny and I was "busting" up alum blades all the time; almost every time I went out. One time I hit the concrete railing on a submerged bridge that didn't get removed when the lake was built. Regardless of the how, as soon as I could afford $185 for the new (at the time) OMC teflon coated SS prop, that was the end of the prop problems and she ran smooth as silk.....no bent shaft.
If you don't think SS is tough, try drilling into it. I ported my current prop using my drill press and never used titanium coated bits. I knew SS was tough, but this was amazing.
Cool Tex, good to know. I guess what I really ought to do is order me a tiny tach, take the boat out one more time and measure my hole shot and top speed so I can see what the 17P is delivering. It seems as if I need a prop and that is all, but I just want to get the right one for the job. I wish I could buy a Merc Laser 2, but $400 on a prop when I have $1200 into my entire setup seems a bit unpractical.![]()