Need an official materials list for painting a portion of my boat.

[vetting]

Need an official materials list for painting a portion of my boat.

I know there are a ton of threads about how to paint a boat but they all seem to have conflicting information.

All I want to do is repaint the grey part of the boat. Its still original 1989 gelcoat. I spend about 8 hours every spring to bring it back to reasonable shape and within a month (no matter how much wax) it looks like crap again. Since I have to replace the rub rail this year, I thought I might as well bite the bullet and paint it. I also thought about just vinyl wrapping it, but that has is own hassles.

So what I'm looking for is an official materials list.

- What product is best to strip off the years of wax and polish with
- What grit do I sand with and best type of sander to use
- What is the best premix to fill in gouges and scratches with
- What primer should I use and what process should I use to layer/sand it
- I know this is a big conflicting topic, but what top sides paint? What process should I use to layer/sand it. I will be rolling/tipping it.

The boat sits in the marina for 6 months out of the year and gets a lot of use....aka a lot of docking so paint durability is important.

Thank you in advance for your help.

 

[jc55]

There will be lots of suggestions and there are a million ways of doing it. I suggest working backwards.

1. Pick your paint system. Don't freak out on price because you're probably not going to even use a full quart. I suggest Awlgrip which will take a different reducer for roll and tip vs spraying. paint, hardener, reducer. Use 3M Fine Line tape and the good green 3M painters tape...not the stuff you buy locally at the hardware store.

2. Based on paint choice, determine if primer is needed. You may not need it(Awlgrip) but should if you have some "bodywork" to do.

3. If epoxy primering you can pretty much use anything to fill gouges. I really love US Composites epoxy with SM fairing compound but others may like Marine filler or other epoxy types.

4. Sanding...For what you're doing you could probably start body work with 150 grit on your repair areas(80 might cut into your surrounding areas too much) and end with 320...maybe 400 but that's pushing it. I like scotchbrite pads for final(professional not kitchen)

5. You need wax tack rags, sticks, cups, strainers, etc.

6. I like to wash first with dish detergent thoroughly. Then with wash with dish detergent and a fine professional bodywork scocthbrite pad(not a kitchen item), then dry and wash and wipe scotchbrite and laquer thinner sparingly and little areas at a time(watch static electricity!!!) then use PPG DX330 or similar wax and grease remover following instructions throughout the project. Overkill, but I haven't had a paint failure.

 

[Woodonglass]

I suggest washing with TSP and then Wet Sanding the Gel Coat Starting @ 600 grit and then 800 and then 1000. Then use a power polisher with a rubbing compound followed with marine polish. I think you'll be surprised how you can bring the gel coat back to life. You can use Gel Coat paste to fill any gouges and scratches prior to doing any sanding and polishing. Waxing Will NOT restore gel coat but the wetsanding WILL!!

 

[vetting]

I already have gone down the wet sanding route before when I first bought the boat. Did 600 - 800 - 1200 - 1500 and then compound and polish. Been there done that. It was just too sun damaged to stay looking nice. Plus there are a lot of color blotches on the top where it looks like someone burnt the gel with a buffer at one time. Plus it has some dock damage in a few places. On top of that hot mess, the rub rail is a mess and pieces have been spliced in by a previous owner - when they did so, they also nicked up the glass pretty good.

Im leaning towards Awlgrip in a similar grey. I would do black, but worried that I'd have to get the surface near perfect for it to turn out right. Plus I think black would get pretty darn hot sitting in the sun all day.

 

[Woodonglass]

Alrighty then...Sounds like you've done what can be done. You might wanna check this paint out. It's really good Stuff!!! I

http://supermarinepaint.com/marinepa...allon-5p10.htm

I like to make my own filler using poly resin and glass bubbles mixed to the consistency of catsup or mayonaise. Or if its just deep scratches or minor gouges I just use Gel Coat paste (Gel Coat thickened with Cabosil. I still wash down with TSP and then wet sand with 220 and then Final wash down with Acetone and shoot primer. I use 320 or Scotch Brite pads between coats of Primer and Color Coats. I like the Roll n' Roll Technique with the High Density Foam rollers. With a bit of practice you can get a Spray like High Gloss Finish.

 

[zool]

Alrighty then...Sounds like you've done what can be done. You might wanna check this paint out. It's really good Stuff!!!

http://supermarinepaint.com/marinepaint/pc/SM-1000-Revolution-Gallon-5p10.htm

I have never tried SM, Mike, mostly because none of the establishment paints have made the claim to below wateliner compatible, except for the MCU's.....and the industrial mixes from Sherman Industrial, ect...and even they wont warrantee over composites, BUT, SM seems to be hanging around, and they are peeking my interest.

Im leaning towards giving it a go for the hull bottom, on a project im lining up for after the 28.......


They kind of remind me of the clear anti fouling era, that failed.

Ill post it all here if I get to it

 

[zool]

Vetting, I know your section is above the waterline, was just responding to WOG's rec......JC is right, imo about choosing a topside finish, that has a brush/roller reducer in their system for roll/tip...some other non spray choices might be Interlux Perfection, Awlcraft 2k, and Pettit easypoxy2....

And a wax/grease remover to remove the silicone is a must, any of the PPG DX cleaners is fine, or Prepsol, and any other automotive surface cleaner will do the trick, if you use the 2 rag method, or the spray and wipe method.

 

[Woodonglass]

We have a member, Andgott, that is a Ocean going Ship captain. He's on a voyage overseas I think and has had some severe health issues and hasn't posted in quite some time. He used the paint on two of his rebuilds. He is 100% sold on the paint. That's how I found out about it. Has worked with the company for several years. Says they have been Great to work with, will mix custom colors and the paint flows and performs as advertised. It's a bit pricey but he seems to think it's worth every penny. If I do another hull, it might be my choice as well.

 

[SDSeville]

Alrighty then...Sounds like you've done what can be done. You might wanna check this paint out. It's really good Stuff!!! I

http://supermarinepaint.com/marinepa...allon-5p10.htm

I like to make my own filler using poly resin and glass bubbles mixed to the consistency of catsup or mayonaise. Or if its just deep scratches or minor gouges I just use Gel Coat paste (Gel Coat thickened with Cabosil. I still wash down with TSP and then wet sand with 220 and then Final wash down with Acetone and shoot primer. I use 320 or Scotch Brite pads between coats of Primer and Color Coats. I like the Roll n' Roll Technique with the High Density Foam rollers. With a bit of practice you can get a Spray like High Gloss Finish.

Hey WOG, would you add a hardener to the SM?

 

[Woodonglass]

According to andgott, and I really trust his opinion, it doesn't need it. When it dries, it's very hard and durable. He REALLY likes the stuff and swears by it. He's used Interlux and Awlcraft in the past and says this stuff is as good or better. I'm kinda itchin to try it. But...Being a C.O.B. my Wallet isn't!!!!:lol:

I found andgotts review of the paint!!!

http://supermarinepaint.com/marinepa...imonial-d6.htm
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...and-hull-repair/362052-new-marine-paint/page2

 

[vetting]

So is awlgrip technically a 2 part paint? Not sure how a 1 part paint could be more durable.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yes AG is a two part system. I'm not saying that the SM paint IS MORE durable. Just that andgott was impressed with it's hardness and durability. His tests and experience with it seemed to yield comparable results. I have been researching a lot and found others that used the SM with less favorable accounts.

 

[zool]

So is awlgrip technically a 2 part paint? Not sure how a 1 part paint could be more durable.

The mix im interested in is the Ironside 2 part Acrylic Urethane from SM. I want to see how it stacks up against Concept and how it holds up freshwater docked ofr a season.

http://supermarinepaint.com/marinepaint/pc/SM-266-Ironside-Urethane-Gallon-3p7.htm

I'm an AU guy...

 

[Woodonglass]

I understand but.. I'm thinkin the topside paint is all that vetting would really need for his application. It would be plenty durable for anything above the waterline.

 

[zool]

I understand but.. I'm thinkin the topside paint is all that vetting would really need for his application. It would be plenty durable for anything above the waterline.

I saw on the Glen-L site, some guys have been using the sm-1000 with good results, one had it on for 5 years and no problems...Some use clear over it, some as single stage...both are topside paints...I just wonder about repairabilty....like AG.

 

[Woodonglass]

Well... I'll mosey on over to tech support tomorrow and see what they say!!!

 

[vetting]

If I went with Awlgrip I need the following correct? I'll also probably have to go with at least 2 quarts base and 2 quarts of color - not sure if I want to step up to gallons for everything if Im not going to use it.

Primer
545 Epoxy Primer Base
mixed 1:1 by volume with D3001 converter
Brush reduced 0-20% with T0031 Topcoat Brushing Reducer

Color Coats
Awlgrip Polyester Urethane Topcoat Base
Awlgrip Awlcat #3 Brushing Converter mixed at a ratio of 1:2 base
Brush reduced 0-20% with T0031 Topcoat Brushing Reducer

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmmm, What's your estimate of the Sq. Footage of the Gray area you'll be painting?? Awlgrip states you'll get about 60 to 100 sq. ft of coverage per quart @ 1 mil thickness and they recommend a final thickness of 3-4 mils.

 

[jc55]

Double check the primer requirement. You may not need it. My black hull was shot in '96 without primer from evidence I've found, and spent all of its life outdoors in Florida...abused. I reshot the transom this winter...so easy. I might have used 8 oz of color. You'll probably only need a quart of each and have some left over.

I know this is unsolicited, but I'd pay a painter to shoot it after you get it prepped. If you prep and tape it off yourself, you just need someone who knows how their gun works and can read a tech sheet.

Primer is an unsanded sealer and the top coat is what it is out of the gun. The color will flow on the hull and look great without block sanding. What can stand out are gouges or nicks but the natural imperfections from the mold will not stand out in black.

 

[vetting]

Total square footage is around 280 sq feet. I would like to do the primer because I'll be doing a few repairs and want an even surface that I can block sand and then fix any other defects I didnt see the first time. I would do black, but the boat sits in the sun all day long and dont want it to bake 24x7.