Need help quick! If you can!!!

[bellybuster]

Picked up my carb rebuild kits today. (Bass Pro ordered them for me) NO INSTRUCTIONS!!! Nothing! just two plastic bags with parts. Fk10103-2. I have ordered a manual but it has not arrived yet. It is supposed to be really nice this weekend and this motor has kept us off the water for 2 weeks now. Does anyone have a copy of the rebuild instructions they could copy and or scan for me? 1995 Force 120HP. Or the page(s) from a manual for a rebuild. Or maybe know a website that may have instructions on it. Bellybuster08@aol.com <==we live in Pa., here you only have so many weekends in the summer to take advantage, weather permitting. My kid just got a wakeboard and hasnt had much of a chance to use it. I am starting to feel guilty for not taking this thing back to the shop! But they already cost me $300 and did not fix my problem. Made me mad! Decided to try it myself! Learned alot! But now I need to get this thing runnin!! Any help would be much appreciated!! Thanks! Bellybuster!!!!

 

[JB]

Re: Need help quick! If you can!!!

Please don't ask members to break the law, BB. Uploading scans of copyrighted material is illegal.<br /><br />Someone may be able to "talk" you through it or refer you to a site licensed to give you the instructions.<br /><br />Otherwise, be patient and wait for your manual.<br /><br />Good luck.

 

[eurolarva]

Re: Need help quick! If you can!!!

The rebuild is pretty straight forward. Some carbs have a fixed fuel seat and you may not be able to remove it on yours. Replace the needle valve, the mixture adjust spring, float bowl gasket and any other rubber rings or gaskets you can see. Invert the carb so float is on the top. The distance of the now top of float to the carb body should be 13/32 inch. I prefer to go to 1/2 inch on mine. This is the setting that will shut the fuel off at a certian bowl height. You should soak the carb over night in a mild carb cleaner or gas and use a wire to clean out all orifices you can get to with the wire and then blow out with compressed air. Keep compressor around 20 psi if possible. Inspect the tip of the mixture adjustment screw to make sure it is not pitted or bent. Turn mixture screw clockwise till it is lightly seated then back it off one full turn. You will need to adjust this with the motor running to fine tune the setting.<br /><br />It is best to do this with a manual in front of you as JB mentioned.

 

[bellybuster]

Re: Need help quick! If you can!!!

OK I am game!, I have the top carb off the motor, the kit came with 6 of the little brass welsh? plugs. One of them on my carb has a hole in it. When I saw it I thought that maybe that was my problem. Then I checked the bottom carb, and the one at the same place on my bottom carb had a hole also. None of the ones in the kit have a hole. Do I replace all but that one? Or do I need to drill a hole in one of the new ones? When I look into the bottom of the carb, the main nozzle looks like it has some sort of jet in it. It looks like it is pushed to one side,I guess so you can get a screw driver on the main and get it out? Is this something that comes out of the main nozzle and i reuse? The main nozzle in my kit does not have this port or jet. It is threded about a third of the way down and has 2 holes drilled in it. The kit has 4 small screws 2 of them look like the ones that hold the butterfly in the barrel to the cross rod. The butterfly assembly seems to work fine. Good spring tension and smooth operation. so do I need to take those screws out? I am not sure where the other 2 screws go. There are 3 springs in the kit. one looks like the butterfly return spring. Like I said earlier this seems to operate fine so do I change it? One spring looks like the spring on the idle screw. but I did not get a new idle screw. Just change the spring? I have no idea where the third spring goes. In the kit is a pin, it looks like the pin for the float. I did not get a new float in the kit and the float seems to be fine. just change the pin? Then 2 mystery parts. I have a diagram of the carb I down loaded off the net. From the diagram it looks like one of these parts may be a inlet needle (black and white pic so it is hard to tell.) Cant see on my carb where that would go. 2nd mystery part looks just like the first only it has a little clip or spring one end. After that just 3 gaskets these are the only parts that I am sure of. 1 for the float bowl and 2 for the float bowl nut. Again help if you can. But dont get arrested! Thnks bellybuster!

 

[eurolarva]

Re: Need help quick! If you can!!!

My guess is the welsh plugs should not have a hole in them. The previous owner probably punched it out and did not have a replacement and reused it. I would put new plugs in and keep the old ones just in case. Do not redrill the new welsh plugs. The kit you got may be generic and work on different carbs which would explain mystery parts. Do not dissasmble the butterfly. Just keep the parts if needed later. The taper pin for the float is bigger on one side and should have a knurled end on it. Make sure you remove from the non knurled end. Carb kits do not come with floats. One spring might be for the float. Some of the carbs use this spring on the float pin to help the float go up and down. When you remove the idle mixture screw make sure you blast that opening with carb cleaner. That spot is the most troublesome for motors not idling worth a crap.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Need help quick! If you can!!!

Before bolting the carb on the engine, make one final check. Tip the carb upside down and blow (by mouth) into the fuel inlet. If air goes in, something is not right with the float adjustment or the needle and seat are not sealing. If you can't blow into the inlet, you are good to go.

 

[Realgun]

Re: Need help quick! If you can!!!

Upinsmoke thats a great Idea about blowing my carb! I mean testing it. <br /><br />I will be ding thre as soon as a scrape up the other two kits. Darn Merc come with no instructions.<br /><br />I think the proper procedure is to remove Bowl, gaskets, the jet(s) the float and valve and the Idle needle. Remove welsh plugs.<br /><br />Used the canned carb cleaner and blow ith into any holes you have in the carb. Soak in cleaner overnight. Blow with either canned air or come compressed air at low presure all holes you did earlier. <br /><br />Put it all together. <br />Turn upside down and check float level. LIGHTY seat idle and back off 1 turn only. Blow in carb upside down to test flat needle closed. No air is good!<br /><br />Hopefully thats about it other than sincing all carb together as explained in the manual!