Need help to set points on Johnson 80hp (Manual is confusing)

[BonairII]

I've been reading my service manual on how to set points, and I'm not sure I set them correctly

In the "d" section of instructions it mentions "The breaker point arm opposite the condenser should be on the high lobe of the cam" It then immediately explains in section "e" to loosen the breaker point lock screw and adjust the point to close.....
Which set of points is supposed to be set to "closed" at the first set of timing marks? I'm assuming that it's referring to "#1" (see next pic)

If I'm correct and the "#1" set of points is supposed to be closed at the 1st timing marks....do I set #2 points at ..20 at the same time? If this is the case, then why do I even need to rotate the distributor to the 2nd set of timing marks and then set the #2 points to the 'closed' position?

This should be a simple process, but for some reason it's kicking my butt.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Need help to set points on Johnson 80hp (Manual is confusing)

I've never heard of setting points to be "closed".
If you set them to open at the correct time they'll close at the right time, too.

Edit: Just reread your post and the instruction that is confusing you is actually in "e)"....not "d)".

What you are trying to achieve is to have the points "exactly at the point of opening with the timing marks aligned as described." If you have got them just right, the TINIEST rotation of the crankshaft should make the points open enough to break that circuit.


Hope that is clear

 

[BonairII]

Re: Need help to set points on Johnson 80hp (Manual is confusing)

I've been reading this thread also. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=308046&highlight=80hp

The instructions seem to be slightly diff than the instructions in my manual.

Ok...When the timing marks align, the test light should go 'off' signifying that the points are OPEN? Or are they supposed to 'start' opening as the timing marks align?

At what point do I check that they are fully open to .20? Or is gapping them to .20 another method to timing?

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Need help to set points on Johnson 80hp (Manual is confusing)

Maybe describing the points as "starting to open" is clouding the issue.

This is an electrical circuit that is mechanically operated.

You are trying to get everything synched/timed/arranged so that the circuit opens at precisely the mechanical spot when "the moon and stars are in alignment"...in this case as indicated by the reference points on your motor...

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Need help to set points on Johnson 80hp (Manual is confusing)

Never answered your original questions, ....sorry

If I'm correct and the "#1" set of points is supposed to be closed at the 1st timing marks

Teetering on the brink of opened ~ closed....setting this electrically will always be more precise than just gapping the points. You are setting the maximum gap that the points should open (this affects dwell) and then fine tuning by "fixing" the exact "time" that they open in reference to those "timing" marks.
I did a version of this procedure on a 6 HP that I had always just set the points just by gapping; runs markedly better.


....

do I set #2 points at ..20 at the same time?

No. One set of timing marks aligned...one set of points adjusted.

If this is the case, then why do I even need to rotate the distributor to the 2nd set of timing marks and then set the #2 points to the 'closed' position?

Second set of timing marks...second set of points...

I can do (and have done) this procedure; now I'm going to find out whether I can explain it.

 

[BonairII]

Re: Need help to set points on Johnson 80hp (Manual is confusing)

I think I'm starting to get it now. Why do the instructions say, "visually inspect the points to make sure that both sets of points open APPROXIMATELY(instead of 'exactly') .20"? Everything I read here says to gap points to an EXACT value.

And lastly, why does figure 4-27 show the second set of timing marks aligned with the dist housing, but the housing boss while the NOT up against the rubber stop?

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Need help to set points on Johnson 80hp (Manual is confusing)

Bonaire, I will guess you are working on a V4 motor from the 60s. Points should be set at the top of the cam, to be exactly .020 open. use a feeler gauge and the .020 gauge wil fit but a .022 will not fit. Now rotate flywheel so dist pully turns 90*, and set second set of points to .020.

A better way is to use a continuity meter to test to see that the points open just as the timing marks align. More accurate setting is better.

 

[Rick.]

Re: Need help to set points on Johnson 80hp (Manual is confusing)

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=294072 Good information here that might help. Best of luck. Rick.

 

[BonairII]

Re: Need help to set points on Johnson 80hp (Manual is confusing)

I'm working on the points now. I'll keep ya posted.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Need help to set points on Johnson 80hp (Manual is confusing)

I think I'm starting to get it now. Why do the instructions say, "visually inspect the points to make sure that both sets of points open APPROXIMATELY(instead of 'exactly') .20"? Everything I read here says to gap points to an EXACT value.

Because you are not setting the gap per se, you are setting the time at which the points open. Many factors influence the actual operation of the points including heel wear, contact wear, etc.and these can influence exactly where/when the points open and how wide they open, and for how long. The most precise set-point is the exact time at which they open.
In an ideal world setting the gap at precisely 0.020 at the correct angular location would also lock in the timing; in our world, not so much....

And lastly, why does figure 4-27 show the second set of timing marks aligned with the dist housing, but the housing boss while the NOT up against the rubber stop?

????

 

[BonairII]

Re: Need help to set points on Johnson 80hp (Manual is confusing)

Update: I think I've got 'em set correctly now. They break contact(open) just as the timing marks pass each other. I used a multi-meter(continuity test) to verify it.

Motor started and ran pretty smoothly, so I'm guessing the points are now set correctly.

I pulled the #2 plug wire(cause spark on this bank of cylinders has been suspect as of late) and got quite a jolt and I dropped the wire. The motor sped up quite a bit, so I quickly turned off the key.

Why would the motor start to mildly "runaway" because of the disconnect wire?