need help with a 1955 rude

[hitace]

i just bought a 1955 7.5 HP fleettwin for 40 bucks and it had no rust anywhere all the screws came right out and it looked vary clean.theres 2 big problems.the first one is the top spark plug was forced in there and it was hell getting out.it seems like someone forced it in there cruckit.my question how to i get that retheated?or can i get a new head for it cheap?my next question is really not looking good the motor is locked up and ain't bugging.the guy said it was sitting for 30+ years.so i hoping maybe its just locked up from lack of use.what would be some ways to try to free this thing up?i got it to move a hair but thats it.its a really great looking outboard and i really want to get it to run sweet again.also it don't look like it has many hours on it the pistons are as shiny as can be.thanksssss

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: need help with a 1955 rude

drop the lower unit, see which is locked up. the power head of the lower unit. if it's the powerhead. start selling parts.

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: need help with a 1955 rude

As TD says you need to figure out if the powerhead is locked up or the lower unit gears. Can't remember if yours is a shift model, if it has FNR and a shift lever try to get it in N and see if the prop turns freely. If so it's probably just a light coat of rust holding the pistons in place. If not, the gears in the lower unit may be toast. If the prop turns in N, throw it on a bench spark plugs up and pull the plugs and shoot some PB Blaster or Kroil penetrating oil in the plug holes. Now forget about it for 3 or 4 days or even a week. When you come back to check it, work the flywheel back and forth by hand or use an old leather belt as a strap wrench. If you're lucky it'll free up and the rings will still be intact. If it frees up, put some more penetrating oil in there and leave it alone for awhile. When you come back, check compression on both cylinders with a compression gauge. If you have 65 lbs. or more on both jugs, might be worth more work. If not, you've got a parts horse or boat anchor on your hands. If it has compression, check spark, service the lower unit, check the coils, clean and regap the points, and clean the fuel system from tank through the carburetor. You may be able to get a helicoil to fix the buggered cylinder threads...good luck, those are sweet little E-rudes when you get them refitted and runnning right.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: need help with a 1955 rude

i agree.

 

[hitace]

Re: need help with a 1955 rude

can i buy a new powerhead for it?

 

[JB]

Re: need help with a 1955 rude

The head can be threaded for a time-sert, which is superior to a helicoil.

Moving this to Johnson & Evinrude troubles.

 

[F_R]

Re: need help with a 1955 rude

You can't just drop the lower unit. You have to pull the powerhead first to disconnect the shift rod. Whatever, that will still tell you which end the problem is in. So go ahead and pull the powerhead. Note, I am saying powerhead, not cylinder head.

Those lower units have a "shock absorber" or slip clutch in them to protect when hitting rocks and stumps. But sometimes the shock absorber breaks and that will make it very hard to turn.

Be careful trying to free up the powerhead. If it is stuck in the crankcase end and you force it to rotate you will probably destroy whatever is stuck (connecting rod). They are only aluminum.

 

[hitace]

Re: need help with a 1955 rude

ok thanks its soaking right now with pb blaster in the spark plug holes.i really want this thing to run.

 

[hitace]

Re: need help with a 1955 rude

the prop does turn freely when in N.i tryed using a belt and it would not budge im letting it sit now for a few days and letting it soak.i dont understand everything is clean the screws came right off and the shifter turns real easy tiller turns easy prop turns easy theres no rust anywhere and was only used in fresh water.that damn flywheel just will not budge.

 

[F_R]

Re: need help with a 1955 rude

Prop turning easy doesn't mean much. That is the ONLY thing turning when you do that.

You seem reluctant to isolate it between top and bottom end.

It only takes about ten screws to remove the powerhead. At least then you will know which end to work on.