need help with ESKA 7.5

[jeter]

first, forgive me for my lack of knowledge about outboard motors. I bought a jon boat with a 7.5 hp ESKA motor, model #14209A. The previous owner told me the motor started easily, but quit running after a few minutes. Although the motor has a built in fuel tank, the owner was using an external tank. I was told to disconnect the external tank, and use the internal tank. The motor ran well for about 10 minutes, then quit. It smelled as if it might be overheating. Very little water is coming out the discharge.Does this motor have a water pump ? what is an impeller ? I see these for sale onthis site. Thanks so much for any help.

 

[twocyclemania]

Re: need help with ESKA 7.5

Make sure that the tank on top of the motor is not clogged as they tend to rust as they get old. Check the fuel flow. As for the smell: Air cooled motors force a lot of air around the block which may give off more of a smell than a water cooled motor. Also, they do run pretty hot which may or may not indicate overheating. You're not going to find much discharge as the cooling systems are primitive. If it has a pump it's just pumping to cool the exhaust leg and lower crank bearing; not the motor itself (ie aircooled motor) Some have a small intake pipe near the prop and receive cooling water from the movement of the boat/prop. You just may have an air cooled motor that's running as it should (other than crapping out on you after a few minutes). I have 3 air cooled: Clinton 5 Apache, 62 Elgin 2, and a recent 10 buck pickup; a 1962 Eska Golden Arrow. Great backup motors since they're light and they tend to run well.

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: need help with ESKA 7.5

the common impeller most of us use on the Eska twins and newer single cylinders is the sierra part number 18-3054 .438 ID, most of the later model 7.5's and all of the 9.9's & 15hp had a tattle tail plus the misting from the exhaust relief holes. Your model of powerhead needs the water for cooling, older units with no water chamber around the lower 1/4 of the cylinder can survive longer on a busted impeller but yours will badly scurge/score the bottom half of the piston if run with out.

 

[jeter]

Re: need help with ESKA 7.5

Make sure that the tank on top of the motor is not clogged as they tend to rust as they get old. Check the fuel flow. As for the smell: Air cooled motors force a lot of air around the block which may give off more of a smell than a water cooled motor. Also, they do run pretty hot which may or may not indicate overheating. You're not going to find much discharge as the cooling systems are primitive. If it has a pump it's just pumping to cool the exhaust leg and lower crank bearing; not the motor itself (ie aircooled motor) Some have a small intake pipe near the prop and receive cooling water from the movement of the boat/prop. You just may have an air cooled motor that's running as it should (other than crapping out on you after a few minutes). I have 3 air cooled: Clinton 5 Apache, 62 Elgin 2, and a recent 10 buck pickup; a 1962 Eska Golden Arrow. Great backup motors since they're light and they tend to run well.

Thanks--Does the fact it's air cooled, mean you can start and run the motor out of water so long as it's in neutral ? Anything would be helpful.

 

[twocyclemania]

Re: need help with ESKA 7.5

I've run mine without water but only for a minute or so at a time to get them up and running. I've run the Clinton 5 Apache in a barrel since it does have a water pump (to cool the leg and lower engine area/bearing). Others have a pick-up pipe where water is pushed up the pipe via the movement of the boat and the prop. There may be combinations of pumps and pickups; I'm not sure. As for being in gear or neutral; I don't think it matters as long as your fingers or leg are not engaged in the prop. Be sure to use oil meant for air cooled motors; not the regular TCW outboard oil. I've used both but from what I understand the oil specifically for air cooled is the way to go.