Need some help finding wheel bearing parts for my 1974 16' EZ Loader Trailer

[Roj115]

There is some play in one of the wheel bearings on my 1974 16' EZ Loader trailer that I am selling along with my old boat.I would like to repair the problem before the new owners come to get it if I can. The bearings would have almost no miles on them as the trailer has only rolled a few feet in and out of my boathouse for about the last 38 years. The trailer has probably not rolled more than 150 feet in total in a single year in all that time.

The wheels spin easily but like I said, there is a noticeable amount of play when I wiggle the wheel on one side. The other side seems tight (no wiggles).

I can only read part of the trailer model number off the sticker on the tongue. The part I can make out says "1600" which makes sense since it's for a 16' boat.

I am currently 400 miles away from my cabin so I can't go out and pull the bearing to figure out what parts I need. I'd like to have the parts with me when I go out to the cabin again in a couple weeks.

Other stuff I can make out on the sticker is this:

GVWR: ..22 5
​GAWR Front: 2 2 5

Does anybody have an idea what size axle it would have and what bearing kit I might need.

Also, the hubs have bearing buddies in them. Should I replace those as well?

Thanks

 

[MTboatguy]

Why not get in touch with EZ Loader, they are still in business and I am sure they can figure out what you need, now that said with the way you have describe the trailer, it might only need new seals and to have the bearings packed and tightened up correctly again. As far as the bearing buddies, clean them up real good repack them and put them back on it, they will last for a long time with the correct care.

http://www.ezloader.com/

 

[vans]

I agree with MTboatguy, pull them to inspect, bearings will have identification numbers on sides, or head to local Napa and they can help with parts.

 

[gm280]

Before trying to get the "correct" bearing and races via internet search and go out there to fix it, I would make a trip to get the old ones off and buy the proper ones the first time. Who knows what is in there now or if somebody else changed them over the years. So remove them and make sure you get the new races as well and rear grease seals too...

 

[Roj115]

I have put in a call to EZ Loader and am hoping that they will be able to help me figure out what parts I need.

I want to have the parts with me when I go out there because it is a 45 minute trip from my cabin to the nearest town where I may not be able to get the parts I need. I'd like to avoid having to drive into town 1 or 2 times to get the parts if I can. Besides that, I have a buyer for the boat & trailer who will want to tow the boat away and start using it as soon as I get out there so if at all possible I want to just arrive there with the parts and fix the problem right away so they can come out and tow the boat away later that day. I guess it remains to be seen if I am able to do that or not.

The bearings on the trailer would be the original ones as we have owned that boat and trailer since they were new in 1974 and if I didn't change the bearings on that trailer, no one did.

The trailer made two 400 mile trips a year for the first 2 years of its life and then after that it probably rolled at most 150 feet a year for the next 38 years. Pretty low miles and pretty easy life it's had.

 

[MTboatguy]

With those few of miles on it, I am actually a bit surprised it would have a bad bearing on it. It really sounds like a loose bearing nut.

 

[Roj115]

With those few of miles on it, I am actually a bit surprised it would have a bad bearing on it. It really sounds like a loose bearing nut.

That's what I figure too. I'm guessing that maybe the cotter pin rusted out and the castle nut has backed off a bit causing the hub to be a bit loose. But I really hate driving back into the nearest town once I get out to the lake. I especially hate it if I have to do it the same day I just drove 400 miles through the mountains to get to the cabin so I want to have the kit with me in case the bearings on that side are worn out.

Got a hold of EZ Loader. 1 1/16" bearings on that puppy. Gave me the National bearing numbers. Turns out a transmission & bearing supply company 1 block away from my office has the complete kit in stock for cheap. A little bit of walking, $25 CAD out of the wallet and Bob's your uncle. Already have the kit in hand. I love it when things turn out to be that easy. :joyous:

If it turns out I don't need to replace the bearings, the new owners will have a kit on hand in case anything goes wrong with any of the wheel bearings.

Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions!

 

[robert graham]

Tighten that castle nut with your fingertips while spinning the wheel....you'll feel the bearing get a bit snug, then back off about 1/8 of a turn....cotter key and you should be good to go...a little play in a wheel bearing is O.K.

 

[Chris1956]

Actually, I was taught to adjust a bearing a bit differently. After the bearing is packed with grease, spin the wheel while tightening the nut with a gas plier. The bearing will get snug enough to stop. Now, without moving the wheel, back off the nut until loose. Now tighten with fingers and install the cotter pin. If the bearing is good, and you do it right, the wheel will not have any play, and will spin easily.

 

[ricohman]

Actually, I was taught to adjust a bearing a bit differently. After the bearing is packed with grease, spin the wheel while tightening the nut with a gas plier. The bearing will get snug enough to stop. Now, without moving the wheel, back off the nut until loose. Now tighten with fingers and install the cotter pin. If the bearing is good, and you do it right, the wheel will not have any play, and will spin easily.

Thats correct.I use a wrench though.
The important things is to find that sweet spot. Tapered bearings can take a bit of preload anyway. Rear diffs are set up this way.

 

[bruceb58]

http://www.championtrailers.com/pre-loading-trailer-wheel-bearings/