New 01 Bayliner 4.3 MC...have a few questions

[Lou C]

Here’s my 2 piece conversion. Later style OMC/Volvo exhaust; I used Barr for the manifolds and elbows and bought Volvo OEM parts for the 90* exhaust pipes and hoses. Those were expensive but they fit like factory and no leaks. There is a conversion kit for Cobras like mine but it’s made by a company with a less than great quality rep (GLM), so I put together my own.

 

[wshekar]

Here’s my 2 piece conversion. Later style OMC/Volvo exhaust; I used Barr for the manifolds and elbows and bought Volvo OEM parts for the 90* exhaust pipes and hoses. Those were expensive but they fit like factory and no leaks. There is a conversion kit for Cobras like mine but it’s made by a company with a less than great quality rep (GLM), so I put together my own.

The Barr kit I purchased came with all the components - even the hose clamps and bolts.

I did replace the gaskets with the OEM gaskets.

 

[MichaelBC]

Hey Rick, the trim gauge is not working and I brought the prop slightly out of the water a couple times by accident. That's actually when I learned that it was popping.

There should be a trim sender on your stern drive that is sending the signal to the gauge.
On the other side there is a trim switch that prevents the sterndrive from coming up to high because this is not good when the engine is running. So it should automatically stop before the prop comes out of the water.
This function can over ruled by pressing the trailer switch which should not be done while the engine is on. I know that some people trim the drive fully up to get to the beach with the boat. Personally I am convinced that triming above the limit switch with the engine running will kill the cross bearing in your drive drain very fast.

 

[poconojoe]

When afloat, I always shut my engine down before raising the drive above trim limit, aka trailer position.

If I'm beaching or retrieving (loading onto trailer), I'll give it a little throttle burst, shut it down, raise to trailer position and coast in.

When launching, I never start my engine unless the drive is down, below trailer position.

This is why it's important for your trim limit switch to be setup properly.
Too much of an upward angle can damage the u-joints if your engine is running.

 

[Scott06]

There should be a trim sender on your stern drive that is sending the signal to the gauge.
On the other side there is a trim switch that prevents the sterndrive from coming up to high because this is not good when the engine is running. So it should automatically stop before the prop comes out of the water.
This function can over ruled by pressing the trailer switch which should not be done while the engine is on. I know that some people trim the drive fully up to get to the beach with the boat. Personally I am convinced that triming above the limit switch with the engine running will kill the cross bearing in your drive drain very fast.

You can run the engine safely below 1000 rpm with the outdrive in trailer postion. Where we keep our boat is in a shallow cove where the water is only 27" (68 cm) or so deep so I have a long idle out to deeper water with the outdrive almost completly up. I have done this for many (35) years on both a alph gen I and Gen II with no problems. Only when it is completely up and you advance the throttle a lot does it make a little noise.

What you may find when the trim limit switch fails people may install a jumper wire instead of replacing the swtich so the trim will work. Then you have to be careful...

 

[achris]

You should also do a full service of the engine and drive. Oils, filters, the whole nine yards. Do it as if the previous owner had done nothing for the previous 5 years.... I'd also pull the carb and give it a birthday... And don't forget the impeller in the drive!

Chris....

 

[bman440440]

On a side note to all... GLM has a bad rap... and in all honesty they deserved it 5+ years ago. But since then they have stepped up there quality and IMO are the same quality as the other non mercruiser brands now. I have found that most of the time that if you check the mating surfaces of all the non mercruiser brands (even sometimes the mercruisers too) that they will need some sort of "touch up" for proper sealing. I have GLM's on my boat and I put 200+ hours a year on my boat in salt water and I flush with salt away after every trip and I split the exhaust every year to inspect and check for issues and so far this is my 4th time doing that and they are in great shape. There are many boats at my marina that are using GLM and no issues with the ones that have been replaced within the last 5 years or so and the owners of those boats are checking them to make sure no problems are starting.